What Transmission Fluid Did You Use To Flush Tranny?

[FredMc]

Hello,

before I replaced my trans the trans was repaired in a shop and they filled with Dex3 but later on I have read on forums that Dex3 is wrong for Volvo 850 models and S70 models unless the S70 is year 99 or later model.. the dex3 might even damage the transmission.. I might be wrong but be careful and use Dex2 fluid with the 850 or S70 unless your car is 99 or later year model.. both fluids have different viscosity and additives in them..

correct me if I'm wrong.

I will correct you, you are wrong.

98, 97 4 speed autos etc use Mercon / Dexron III or equiv

99 and up with 5 speed Aisin Warner trans Automatic use Mobil 3309 or T1V or the rip off Volvo Fluid. Whatever, it's to JWS 3309 oil specification.

If confused always look at your owners manual or call a Volvo Dealer.

[wheelsup]

OK thanks guys for your continued response. The reason I didn't go with Mobile 1 was because I wanted to try new (cheaper) fluid to see if it made the tranny better before spending all the money using Mobile 1. It was having real issues a few months ago. I just wanted to see if it would fix the issues or if I need a new one. The new fluid did fix them, until this problem surfaced.

Anyways I drove home after my trip, 21 miles, got home and checked the stick. Definitely no bubbles from what I could tell, especially like there was before. Even after driving a few miles I would see bubbles on the stick. This is after I drained it out and filled it again and doubled checked the correct fluid level.

What I'm going to do now is drive it home those 21 miles after the new year and put it up on the ramps and drain the fluid. Last time there were a lot of bubbles when I did this. If there are no bubbles this time I'm going to do a few drain/refills to get rid of that Lucas with some quality ATF, but still not Mobile 1. Can't hack that right now .

This MIGHT be a case of being underfilled, which is odd even after adding that 700ml of Lucas it was still foaming, so it must've been way under filled. If so I am extremely lucky, I will pray this is the case, but it's crazy I've been driving like this for a few hundred miles. I'm sure I shortened the life of the tranny but hopefully not by a lot. Fingers are crossed!!!

[crazykn]

If you did underfill the transmission you would experience harder and definitely more noticible shifting. I know, because one time I underfilled the transmission 2 quarts. I did my flush, pouring in 2qt each time 2qt comes out and took it on a test drive, which was shifting hard and came back and found two unopened bottles of ATF sitting on the floor of the garage... whoops.

[BlackBrick]

FYI, I was wrong in an earlier post about foaming...

Was reading through the Haynes manual, and it says OVERFILLING the A/T can cause foaming.

[wolfspiritky]

I'm using the walmart super tech stuff right now without any issues. Well, aside from the fluid looking dark (after 2K), no other issues. I do plan my next flush to be either Mobil 1 ATF (which i currently use for my power steering) or if i feel like splurging a bit, I may go to Redline D4 ATF.

Actually it's no surprise that it looks dark after only 2000 miles. ATF is VERY highly detergent. The detergent in the new fluid is just doing it's job where the old fluid had broken down.

[swedishiron]

My auto failed a few months AFTER draining and refilling (not flushing) with Coastal brand ATF Dexron III compatible but I did also add a bottle of

LubeGard "synthetic whale oil" Transmission Fluid/Additive. I never noticed any shifting problems prior to doing this. The transmission seemed fine up until the week it failed and it went quick.

I have used LubeGard in RWD Volvos with NO issues but will never use it again in a FWD automatic just in case.

I will never use Coastal Brand ATF either just in case.

[DonutsDemise]

i used Valvoline Maxlife ATF in my old car's transmission. it is still going strong.

[wheelsup]

OK another update, drove to work (21 miles today) and checked the dipstick, a little foam. Drove home (21 miles), no FOAM. Seriously I'm going to pull my hair out here. Is it possible the foam is being pushed thru the system somewhere?

Also I believe my surging may be related to a bad MAF sensor or connector. I started my car today and both times it almost died while in park. In addition while driving it did the same thing it did while driving on my long trip that precipitated this post multiple times. It almost feels like the engine is being turned off and on really quickly.

The connector pins look slightly greenish, what sort of cleaner should I use? Just general purpose MAF sensor cleaner available at Autozone or Advance?

-matt

[wheelsup]

Ok not sure why I said that, I guess I need electrical cleaner for the MAF connectors and MAF cleaner for the MAF itself, correct?

-matt

[FredMc]

Actually it's no surprise that it looks dark after only 2000 miles. ATF is VERY highly detergent. The detergent in the new fluid is just doing it's job where the old fluid had broken down.

No true actually. AFT typically contains NO detergents at all. It isn't intended for that. It has highly refined friction modifiers. It's an old myth that AFT cleans as old timers incorrectly thought that AFT could even clean an engine. Simply not true as stated by many many folks on www.bobistheoilguy.com.

AFT is basically like 5/20 motor oil in consistency.

I can't explain why it's dark again, but drain and fill again two more times.

[--Aaron--]

Ok not sure why I said that, I guess I need electrical cleaner for the MAF connectors and MAF cleaner for the MAF itself, correct?

-matt

You got it, CNC I beleive makes the MAF specific cleaner.

[Guest 850]

If you're going to use over-the-counter additives, buy STP brand because they're developed by the same firm (afton) that helped GM develop the Dextron ATF fluid and Ford with its Mercon ATF. GM's new fullsyn Dex6 is an Afton product.

If you do some research, you will also learn that it is the ATF partner for Mercedes, Honda, and several other imports.

http://www.theautochannel.com/news/2006/06/29/013225.html

http://www.acadiaforum.net/forum/index.php?topic=3263.0;wap2

Most downstream consumers don't realize the "additive package" in every quart of motoroil and ATF comes from one of two companies (Aftonchemical or Lubrizol). They both supply additive components that are blended into Mobile-1, Amsoil, pennzoil, quakerstate... BTW, Shell gasoline's V-Power, BP's Invigorate, and Mobile techron whatever... are all afton's products, but I bet very few of you know this.

So, whether you buy walmart brand ATF, mobile-1, or Amsoil, the active additive ingredient package comes from the same source. More expensive oil simply means better base-oil and better lubricity additive package. The ratio of additives to base oil in one quart of Amsoil or high-mileage Mobile-1, for example, contains more additives than the base-oil. This is why they have better lubricity and resistent to higher temperature. Same logic goes for ATF.