Black Betty Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 +1,000,000Unless you like your garage floor all oily.switching to synthetic wont be all that bad, he may develop some leaks which if you aren't scared to tackle a few yourself would not be a bad thing.One main benefit to switching to syn is the burn off point, dino oil starts to burn at 300 Fahrenheit while syn burns at 600 Fahrenheit. If you want to ease in try a synthetic blend they burn at 450 F, they have the same advantages as syn oil but are not as effective. Its a nice blend. My father switched to syn oil in his 97 850 n/a and the bottom of the car is still spotless. So in the end you may find yourself burning less oil with the syn. I would not suggest switching though if the car already leaks. Burning is one thing but leaking is another.Also with dino oil try to stay in the 3000 mile oil change range. Syn oils are advanced enought that you could go longer, However most oil filters start filtering poorly past 3000 miles so check with the oil filter manufacture about how long to go on a filter. If you want some members here even change the filter every 3k and leave the oil in til another 3k. So a total of 6k on the oil and 3k on the filter.And lol at using a k&n after chucks review. Im sure you've felt how flimsy the K&n filters are, i bent the housing on one just tighting it with my hand thats when i decided they are crap and that decision was confirmed by chucks oil filter review you should really check it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadeInJapan Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 It's an N/ADuct Tape anything that is broken or questionable....you're good to go! :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfnmagik Posted January 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 switching to synthetic this late in the game is typically not recommendedThat's kinda what I thought, leaks and all. I will say though, that after having replaced the rear main at around 90k, the motor has not leaked a bit, not one drop, so I may give it a whirl. So, if do I should just watch for leaks? Where would it typically be, rear main? Ive seen this "prolly" on this board a handful of times..Why?'Cause it's easier to spell.It's a N/AYeah, it ain't show and hardly any go, but it's the daily driver. The new baby in the driveway is an '09 VW TDI 'Clean Diesel' Jetta.236 lbs of "GO" and still around 45 mpg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 That's kinda what I thought, leaks and all. I will say though, that after having replaced the rear main at around 90k, the motor has not leaked a bit, not one drop, so I may give it a whirl. So, if do I should just watch for leaks? Where would it typically be, rear main?as i said you may want to go to a syn blend. But look at the cam seals both sides, rear main. If you park in the same spot each time you can just watch for drops to appear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfnmagik Posted January 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Any brand preference? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Brand is up to you. YOU have to do the research to find out what brand is best.Synthetic blend is just a waste of time, you either go with a true synthetic or non-synthetic. Really, what it comes down to is that you have to find out for yourself what you feel comfortable doing. NO ONE can tell you to use synthetic or to not use synthetic. As for the leak aspect, thats total bull stuff. Run whatever oil you want with whatever oil filter you want and change it out when you feel it's good to change. We are talking about a well built N/A engine so as long as you don't run extremely crappy oil and filters for 20K+ miles then that engine will outlast the rest of the car. PERIOD! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfnmagik Posted January 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flukey Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Any brand preference?It seems that ya have everything addressed so I would use#1Seafoam#2 Tecron/Chrevon fuel treatment#Tranny flush more often every 10,000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 It seems that ya have everything addressed so I would use#1Seafoam#2 Tecron/Chrevon fuel treatment#Tranny flush more often every 10,000#1 Seafoam sure, I just did that in my beater Saab 900 but only run fun. It's not really needed#2 NO#3 10K miles? that's extreme, 25K-30K is more like it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flukey Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 #1 Seafoam sure, I just did that in my beater Saab 900 but only run fun. It's not really needed#2 NO#3 10K miles? that's extreme, 25K-30K is more like it...Hey Bingy, i am not a fan of additives at all. But, I know for certain that Tecron is very effective at keeping injecters cleanas well as eliminating carbon deposits on valve surfaces. I rebuilt trannys for a BMW dealership for 10 years and saw the results myself. Also I might add is that 10,000 mile intervals may seem extreme but if you do that as i do, you most likelywill NEVER have to rebuild/replace the tranny OR the solenoids. Another ounce of prevention. CHEAP pm. And about 15 minutes of your time. MY 2 cents. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 Synthetic blend is just a waste of time, you either go with a true synthetic or non-synthetic.why do you say that? it has almost all the benefits as synthetic but not as extreme benefits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 why do you say that? it has almost all the benefits as synthetic but not as extreme benefits.sorry, but I personally feel that there is no need for bothering with a blend when you can spend a little more and get a much more superior oil in my opinion. I just wont personally support blend in any way. If I happen to fined some substantial evidence that blend is close to as effective as full synthetic with half the cost THEN maybe I will look closer at it. Till then I'm still with all or nothing!Extreme benefits? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 sorry, but I personally feel that there is no need for bothering with a blend when you can spend a little more and get a much more superior oil in my opinion. I just wont personally support blend in any way. If I happen to fined some substantial evidence that blend is close to as effective as full synthetic with half the cost THEN maybe I will look closer at it. Till then I'm still with all or nothing!Extreme benefits?what i meant was the benefits are not as good as pure syn but certainly much better than dino, such as the burn off temp of all 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 The other thing to take into consideration here is that there is already enough to think about when it comes to oils. Then to ad another curve ball into the mix is when syth. blend comes into play. If you keep it simple with dino and synthetic it makes this a little easier. Heck I'm so bad that I'm having a really hard time trying to figure out what to put into my beater Saab 900. I can't bring my self to use dino oil since I just feel wrong using the stuff and then I can't bring myself to use a true synthetic either since it's just a beater N/A. Look I'm really not trying to tell anyone either way is better, since picking oil/filters is already complicated enough then you have people on here just ranting on and on about the generic myths or storys they have hear or read. haha all we have to go on is that never use Fram and change your damn oil when you feel confident doing so. Other then that, get out your UOA sheets and start collecting the data.Side-note: once on-board oil analysis is more affordable THEN everyone will have some real fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfnmagik Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 Thanks everybody. BTW, is there an 'EDIT' feature for posts?#1 Seafoam sure, I just did that in my beater Saab 900 but only run fun. It's not really needed#2 NO#3 10K miles? that's extreme, 25K-30K is more like it... That's what I'm feelin'. Regarding Seafoam, do you advocate the water torture on the Ole Man™ of just the Foam™? On tranny's, I understand that some of the older ones don't take too kindly to the flushes with some goin' South right after.Hey Bingy, i am not a fan of additives at all. But, I know for certain that Tecron is very effective at keeping injecters cleanas well as eliminating carbon deposits on valve surfaces.Regarding Tecron treatment, I figured that's what the Seafoam/torture was for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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