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2000 S70 Se Dying Tranny


geokilla

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Ok here is the run down, although getting after me for saying the S word was not a wise move.

What color is the fluid?

does it smell burnt?

Is there a flashing arrow?

Does the tranny make any bad noises?

Is the ABS and TRACS light on?

What fluid is the shop using for a flush?

Is the check engine light on?

By the sounds of it, the tranny is not dead, it will be if you don't figure out why it's acting up though.

Edit: Another good idea is to ask a Volvo dealer if they would hook it up to VADIS and test all four valve body solenoids.

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Ok here is the run down, although getting after me for saying the S word was not a wise move.

What color is the fluid?

does it smell burnt?

Is there a flashing arrow?

Does the tranny make any bad noises?

Is the ABS and TRACS light on?

What fluid is the shop using for a flush?

Is the check engine light on?

By the sounds of it, the tranny is not dead, it will be if you don't figure out why it's acting up though.

Edit: Another good idea is to ask a Volvo dealer if they would hook it up to VADIS and test all four valve body solenoids.

I can't find the dipstick for the transmission fluid, so can't answer that. I've had 6 pairs of eyes trying to look for the dipstick, while one of us were holding the owner's manual.

No burning smell. No flashing arrow.

I don't recall the tranny making bad noises. Occasionally, we do hear something like a minor high-pitched noise that you would usually get from bad brakes which occur under braking. However, we've also heard that noise when just cruising in the city.

ABS and STC (TRACS) light is not on. STC flashes when there's a wheel slipping, just like how it should be.

No idea. Will ask tomorrow if I can go.

Check engine light is always on cus we skip the minor service and do just the major service. It does however go off after a certain amount of time.

Dunno if this helps or not, but the engine temperature gauge (one next to the amount of fuel left in car) never seems to stay in the middle. It's always just above the cold area, or 1/2 in between the cold area and the middle like how it should be. It is winter here so that might have an effect on this.

As for that dealer thing.....what? All I know is that we're bringing it to the same shop tomorrow. My mom doesn't want to bring it to the dealer cus dealers usually charge insane labour. I could ask the shop and see if they have VADIS and if they could test the four valve body solenoids. They should have the equipment since they specialize in Volvos.

P.S. How'd you edit your post? I don't see the button >.<

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- This dipstick is right under the intake tube that leads from the grill to the intake box.

- There wont be a burning smell, the oil in the tranny will smell burt if its bad (when you find the dipstick)

- No noises is a good thing

- The tranny must use type-4 fluid NOT dex-III if it is truly a 5spd tranny.

- The light you speak of is the "service engine" light and that comes on every 5K miles. It is not the check engine light (CEL)

- You need to get the temperature fixed, either a thermostat or a temp sensor. Not a good idea to run the engine cold!

- The dealer is only good for quick VERY specific tasks and nothing more, you would be lucky if your shop has the hardware, they might have VADIS but they need the VCT2000 scanner to be able to test the solenoids for operation.

Really what I believe it is is just your PNP switch and a fluid flush. Next time the reverse acts up try rowing the shifter back and further through ALL positions about 20-30 times and then see if it goes into reverse. If it does then the PNP switch is indeed bad. Try not to ever rev the engine real high if it doesnt go into gear, if it drops into gear then you are taking years of your tranny.

- I can edit because I am a supporting member and pay to be on here...To help you get a paddle :)

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- This dipstick is right under the intake tube that leads from the grill to the intake box.

- There wont be a burning smell, the oil in the tranny will smell burt if its bad (when you find the dipstick)

- No noises is a good thing

- The tranny must use type-4 fluid NOT dex-III if it is truly a 5spd tranny.

- The light you speak of is the "service engine" light and that comes on every 5K miles. It is not the check engine light (CEL)

- You need to get the temperature fixed, either a thermostat or a temp sensor. Not a good idea to run the engine cold!

- The dealer is only good for quick VERY specific tasks and nothing more, you would be lucky if your shop has the hardware, they might have VADIS but they need the VCT2000 scanner to be able to test the solenoids for operation.

Really what I believe it is is just your PNP switch and a fluid flush. Next time the reverse acts up try rowing the shifter back and further through ALL positions about 20-30 times and then see if it goes into reverse. If it does then the PNP switch is indeed bad. Try not to ever rev the engine real high if it doesnt go into gear, if it drops into gear then you are taking years of your tranny.

- I can edit because I am a supporting member and pay to be on here...To help you get a paddle :)

Ooooh. Now I just gotta find the intake box....lol. I'll see if I can check it out tonight. Otherwise, I'd have to wait till I get to the shop.

It is a 5 speed transmission. 5th gear is engaged at around 75Km/h. Even the gear selector is PRND43L. Kickdown usually goes to 3rd gear. That or we're not depressing the gas pedal far enough to get into 2nd.

@Mr. Winkey. I'm not "skipping". My school is self-directed learning so even if I'm at school, I'm just like doing homework.

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Ok then you need type-4 ATF. You can get it at a pretty good price from the Toyota dealer.

I willing to bet that fluid and a PNP switch should do the trick from what I know about the car.

bing and others are trying to help so don't whine about language.

Observations:

1) specifically the fluid is JWS 3309 specified trans oil. Only available at Mobil distributors by the case ($65 US), or Volvo Dealer (rip off) or Toytota Dealers (called Toyota T1V trans fluid, $5 US quart).

2) If you used a Volvo indy I would be very suspicious that the wrong fluid is in there right now. I would get new fluid in there immediately and the right fluid as described above. Ask you Volvo mechanic what fluid he puts in the car if it's a 99. Don't worry about manufacture, get the oil spec. It has to be one of the three above or it's wrong.

3) PNP switch diagnosis is probably correct as well.

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Back from the shop and this is all the extra info I was able to get.

The brake failure light was going on and off cus there wasn't enough brake fluid in the reservoir. They topped it up free of charge.

As for the transmission, he's dead set on saying that nothing we can do to fix it. They could do a transmission flush if we want, but he says it won't help. He says it costs $100 for the fluid + $100 for the labour. If I was to purchase the transmission fluid from Toyota, how much would I have to buy?

They said it doesn't involve the PNP switch cus the orange arrow isn't flashing, and they don't want to waste our money on doing unnecessary things. He just says drive it till the tranny's shot.

They didn't want to do the VADIS and VCT check either because again, the tranny is shot, and nothing we can do will fix it.

So now, my mom asked me if I wanted an Acura on the way to school, and I said no due to lack of money, bad design now, etc etc. I told her about how you guys said that we could go to the dealer to do the VADIS and VCT check and she said she'll think about it basically because of the high labour costs that the dealer charges.

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As for the transmission, he's dead set on saying that nothing we can do to fix it. They could do a transmission flush if we want, but he says it won't help.

He just says drive it till the tranny's shot.

They didn't want to do the VADIS and VCT check either because again, the tranny is shot, and nothing we can do will fix it.

:rolleyes: what a negative bunch.

I'd seriously consider taking your car somewhere else for a second opinion. If you follow his advice, it WILL be shot, and there won't be much you can do. But bing is probably right in that it's not too late. You can do a flush yourself at the cost of the fluid. Also, getting the transmission checked at a place that definitely knows the car is cheaper than replacing the entire transmission if you don't have to.

Also, the brake fluid.. check how much is left on the pads. If the fluid is low, then the pads are low. If not, then you might have a leak <_<

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Wow, that's all I have to say!

The flush is easy to do.

Fluid: $65-70 at a Toyota dealer

Labor: It takes like 30mins TOPS so $100 is a total scam

from what Ive read here from you, the tranny is internally fine, there is no flaring between shift, or lots of slipping. Getting into reverse hard and not getting in at all still leads me to the PNP switch. There is no flashing arrow, well that's not uncommon since the computer thinks that everything is peachy!

The reason I said bring it to get the solenoids check is only for a piece of mind. I really don't think any of them are bad.

Anyway, keep use updated. I'm off to go work on my torque converter eating tranny right now!

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:rolleyes: what a negative bunch.

I'd seriously consider taking your car somewhere else for a second opinion. If you follow his advice, it WILL be shot, and there won't be much you can do. But bing is probably right in that it's not too late. You can do a flush yourself at the cost of the fluid. Also, getting the transmission checked at a place that definitely knows the car is cheaper than replacing the entire transmission if you don't have to.

Also, the brake fluid.. check how much is left on the pads. If the fluid is low, then the pads are low. If not, then you might have a leak <_<

How can I do the flush myself? How many litres of transmission fluid do I need, or is it in the owner's manual? I could probably purchase the transmission fluid and ask them to do the flush, but I'd still have to pay the labour costs. I know someone who works as a mechanic at Toyota, so maybe he could do it for me at a cheaper cost..

The brake fluid is fine now. They topped it up because on Saturday when they were working on the brakes, a bit of fluid leaked out. I'm gonna ask my mom when she gets home to see if the brake failure light comes on anymore, but I doubt it would now.

I'm gonna try and persuade my mom again, but it'll be hard despite almost everyone is saying that a flush and changing the PNP switch should do the trick.

I'm in Canada so the prices will be different. So if it's $60 to $70 for labour at Toyota, $100 sounds about right up here. Practically everything is more expensive up here.

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How can I do the flush myself? How many litres of transmission fluid do I need,

The general recommend quantity I've seen is 14 quarts. I've done mine twice with 12, but was doing preventive maintenance and was having no problems. If you are getting the fluid from Toyota, 14 shouldn't be a problem. Keep 1 or at least a half of one in case you need to top off.

The procedure is drive and warm up the car. Pull the fluid return line from the driver side (USA) from the top of the radiator. I seem to remember it's a green clip you squeeze and pull. I didn't get a spare o-ring to replace on the clip, but you might want to. After you pull the line, you insert your hose into the hole in the radiator. I used a clear plastic tube of 1/2" outside diameter and long enough to easily reach the floor off to the side of the car (where you'll be able to see it from the driver's seat). It was too small diameter, so I kept putting layers of duct tape on it until it was a snug fit. This is low pressure, so a snug fit works!. Put the other end in a container you can measure. I used a 1 gallon milk jug, that I had pre-filled with 2 quarts of water, then drew a line on it. Empty the container and put in the hose. Start the car and the return fluid will drain to the milk jug. DO NOT DRAIN MORE THAN 2 QUARTS! Stop the engine, and refill with 2 quarts. Actually this will be the toughest part, but is pretty simple. Finding the damn dip stick to fill it through was the hardest for me. Look for a yellow dipstick. It has a clip release you have to push to be able to pull it out. Find an appropriate hose and funnel combination and drain in 2 quarts. Keep doing this until you have used all the fluid you have. If you always drain an exact amount and fill with the same quantity, you can't go wrong! I say this because these transmissions do not like over or under fills (I quote from others on the forum, as I had no problems, but followed this EXACTLY).

One last comment; find the transmission dipstick and be able to pull it BEFORE starting. Make sure you have appropriate sized hoses and funnels and catch containers. Preparation is the key. I've seen many of panic submissions where they can't find the dip stick (it's more towards the driver side and fairly far down), and can't figure how to pull it when they do find it. This is after draining 2 quarts! Good luck and please keep us posted, we'll always try and help. If you have questions, ASK BEFORE getting started.

Jerry

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