faterotong Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Hey guys, I have a bit of a problem. I just acquired a 1998 V70R last week and it was fine until Sunday afternoon. The car currently cranks and sometimes catches a bit but never actually runs or idles. This is the sequence of events leading up to today: - When I got the car, I noticed a hesitation when accelerating lightly. When accelerating lightly around ~2300 in 3rd/4th to get on the highway, the engine would cut out, the revs would drop, then it would pick back up. This would keep on repeating itself until you let off the accelerator and re-applied throttle and it would accelerate smoothly after that. - The idle would also hunt up and down below 1000rpms and stalled on me once while reversing. I cranked it again and it started right up and stayed running until Sunday. - Sunday, I went to get parts for the car and while pulling into a parking lot, so I slow down to turn and the RPMs drop to idle. I try to accelerate and the engine doesn't want to for about 3-5 seconds and then it did....for about 2 seconds and then it just stumbled and stalled out. It would start right up and just stumble and stall out again. By tapping the IAC, it helped a bit once but then nothing changed after that. - I then proceeded to change the Cam Position Sensor to no change. It would start up and then die. I then changed the IAC. Same story, as it would start up and die again or just fail to start. I then changed the MAF. It idled a bit better but still no change as it would stumble and die or just fail to start. I also tried another coil to no avail. I unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor and it just refused to start. - I had the car towed home and after getting it off the flatbed, it started right up and idled like nothing happened. Then I proceeded to work it by taking apart the intercooler hoses and found that the rubber elbow going to the throttle body had ripped on the backside. I cobbled something together to replace it while keeping the IAC hooked up and there's no vacuum leak as far as the intercooler hoses are concerned. However I can still hear a leak somewhere and spraying brake cleaner on the hoses doesn't change the idle when it actually runs. - I then removed the fuel pump relay and checked it with a 12V source and it clicks like it should. I can also hear the pump priming when the key is in position II. When I push the nipple on the fuel rail, gas does gush out so I doubt it's a fuel problem. I still need to check if I'm actually getting enough pressure. If I'm not mistaken I should be seeing 42PSI? - I also cleaned the throttle body to no avail. - I also jumpered positions 1 and 3 on the relay board and checked the fuse for current draw and it is ~4-5 amps like it should be. This for me pretty much rules out a fuel delivery problem. - The only thing I haven't done yet is pull the plugs but I honestly doubt they're a problem since they were replaced less than 3000kms ago, but I'll pull them to make sure if they're wet or not. The previous owner had the plugs/Cap/Rotor replaced and they all look new. However the wires haven't been changed so that might be a possible problem source so I'll have to individually test each wire to see if there's spark. - I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor last, but the battery is pretty much flat from trying to start it so many times so I haven't been able to see if that's changed anything yet or not. The tachometer is always working so I honestly doubt that the Crankshaft Position Sensor will change anything. As of now, I'm at a loss as to what the potential source of the problem is as it should crank and start right up. This is really frustrating as I just got the car and it should be my daily driver so any help with this will be greatly appreciated! Whew, that was long. :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faterotong Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Hey guys, I have a bit of a problem. I just acquired a 1998 V70R last week and it was fine until Sunday afternoon. The car currently cranks and sometimes catches a bit but never actually runs or idles. This is the sequence of events leading up to today: - When I got the car, I noticed a hesitation when accelerating lightly. When accelerating lightly around ~2300 in 3rd/4th to get on the highway, the engine would cut out, the revs would drop, then it would pick back up. This would keep on repeating itself until you let off the accelerator and re-applied throttle and it would accelerate smoothly after that. - The idle would also hunt up and down below 1000rpms and stalled on me once while reversing. I cranked it again and it started right up and stayed running until Sunday. - Sunday, I went to get parts for the car and while pulling into a parking lot, so I slow down to turn and the RPMs drop to idle. I try to accelerate and the engine doesn't want to for about 3-5 seconds and then it did....for about 2 seconds and then it just stumbled and stalled out. It would start right up and just stumble and stall out again. By tapping the IAC, it helped a bit once but then nothing changed after that. - I then proceeded to change the Cam Position Sensor to no change. It would start up and then die. I then changed the IAC. Same story, as it would start up and die again or just fail to start. I then changed the MAF. It idled a bit better but still no change as it would stumble and die or just fail to start. I also tried another coil to no avail. I unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor and it just refused to start. - I had the car towed home and after getting it off the flatbed, it started right up and idled like nothing happened. Then I proceeded to work it by taking apart the intercooler hoses and found that the rubber elbow going to the throttle body had ripped on the backside. I cobbled something together to replace it while keeping the IAC hooked up and there's no vacuum leak as far as the intercooler hoses are concerned. However I can still hear a leak somewhere and spraying brake cleaner on the hoses doesn't change the idle when it actually runs. - I then removed the fuel pump relay and checked it with a 12V source and it clicks like it should. I can also hear the pump priming when the key is in position II. When I push the nipple on the fuel rail, gas does gush out so I doubt it's a fuel problem. I still need to check if I'm actually getting enough pressure. If I'm not mistaken I should be seeing 42PSI? - I also cleaned the throttle body to no avail. - I also jumpered positions 1 and 3 on the relay board and checked the fuse for current draw and it is ~4-5 amps like it should be. This for me pretty much rules out a fuel delivery problem. - The only thing I haven't done yet is pull the plugs but I honestly doubt they're a problem since they were replaced less than 3000kms ago, but I'll pull them to make sure if they're wet or not. The previous owner had the plugs/Cap/Rotor replaced and they all look new. However the wires haven't been changed so that might be a possible problem source so I'll have to individually test each wire to see if there's spark. - I replaced the Crankshaft Position Sensor last, but the battery is pretty much flat from trying to start it so many times so I haven't been able to see if that's changed anything yet or not. The tachometer is always working so I honestly doubt that the Crankshaft Position Sensor will change anything. As of now, I'm at a loss as to what the potential source of the problem is as it should crank and start right up. This is really frustrating as I just got the car and it should be my daily driver so any help with this will be greatly appreciated! Whew, that was long. There's no edit button?? I also forgot to mention that when it does actually idle, and you give it gas, it'll stall out right away. This leads my friends and I to think that my intake manifold is leaking....but I did spray brake fluid around there and the idle doesn't improve or change at all. When the car was running fine, off the throttle on the highway I'd see 20" of vacuum and at idle it'd be ~12". Also, I don't ever see any more than 3psi of boost with the actuator rod cranked all the way down. I checked my Boost Control Solenoid and from the part number I can gather from it, it appears to be off an S40...does that affect it in any way? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 140 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Is this the car that was for sale in Oakville? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faterotong Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 No, it was the one for sale in Deux-Montagnes in Quebec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Did you check the OBD-II codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70 140 Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 Ok, sorry for the off topic post, tThere was the same car (black 98 v70r) with pretty close to same km's for sale a month ago in Oakville. You have covered everything I would think to test. I hope you get it sorted out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 I checked my Boost Control Solenoid and from the part number I can gather from it, it appears to be off an S40...does that affect it in any way?Not saying this is the problem but you need Volvo TCV p/n 9155936.....which I have w/ roughly 5K miles on it. If you're interested shoot me a pm.Good luck sorting out your problem.Also, are you showing any codes?This really sounds like a MAF.....have you unplugged the MAF, attempted to start and run the car and noted the car's behavior?MAF's can come faulty, just dealt with that a few weeks ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faterotong Posted February 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 yeah, I tried unplugging it and it would just die again...I'm seriously at a complete loss as to what else to check. As far as the MIL goes, the check engine comes on and goes off randomly. There are probably no codes left since the battery is completely flat and I removed it for now. Either way, I need to get myself an ELM 327 cable so I can use my laptop to read the codes.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted February 11, 2009 Report Share Posted February 11, 2009 yeah, I tried unplugging it and it would just die again...I'm seriously at a complete loss as to what else to check. As far as the MIL goes, the check engine comes on and goes off randomly. There are probably no codes left since the battery is completely flat and I removed it for now. Either way, I need to get myself an ELM 327 cable so I can use my laptop to read the codes....Well that would indicate that the MAF is not the problem unless otherwise stated by the codes stored.....get those checked and report back.....I bet the solution is there.Judging from your symptoms, I'm willing to bet the minute you attempt to crank upon reinstallation of the battery the codes will surface once again.Best of luck and if you need/want the TCV feel free to PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faterotong Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Alright, I poked around a bit more today on the car and the spark plugs are Bosch FR7DC and are less than 8000kms old....I took them out and they were very sooty and I wire brushed them clean and put them back in. The car fired right up and idled....for about 5 seconds and then started idling roughly and eventually stumbled and died within 10 seconds. Then I tried starting it again and it seems to catch on a bit and won't start like before...I ordered vacuum lines and the silicone hoses from Stylin' Motors and also an OBDII cable and hopefully within the next week things'll be here and I can work on it next Thursday. Another question I have is, what colour injectors should I actually have? The ones in the car right now are orange/yellow-ish? Also, could a bad FPR be the cause of all this? Any more ideas would be greatly welcome!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkydog Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 You seem to have spark but you still haven't confirmed fuel pressure, I would start there.Also just because a relay makes an audible click it still may not function. Jump the relay or wire an led onto the + side of the fuel pump. If you have good fuel pressure it could be a maf but try to get codes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faterotong Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Yup, the more I think about it, the more I should try just jumping the relay and see what happens...I'll try getting a fuel pressure gauge and as far as codes go, I'm waiting for my OBDII cable to come in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkydog Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Actually I would guess pump first but that's just me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Also, could a bad FPR be the cause of all this?That was my first thought when I read the original post. It may be a cracked hose/elbow going to the FPR though, so I'd check over those, and possibly replace them when you're doing the vac hoses too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faterotong Posted February 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2009 I'll have to jack up the car to see what's giong on in the back...but it might be a bit tricky with the freezing rain that's coming down right now....and the fact that I have 2 midterms coming up. As far as the fuel pump goes, I can hear it prime, there's fuel at the rail...the only thing I haven't checked yet is the pressure....been trying to figure out how to make myself a pressure gauge, so any help on that front would be awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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