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'98 V70r No Start/stalling


faterotong

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Make a fuel gauge? I am sure the parts would cost more than just renting one. That said every symptom you have suggests low fuel pressure, injectors dont spray with low pressure they just drip. The numbers you should look for are 43.5 psi and a volume of around 1 liter of fuel per minute.

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Well yesterday I bought new plug wires, changed the fuel pump relay and added gas to the tank....

Is it just me or do we have TWO fuel pumps? And the tank is split like a saddle right? My current theory is that one pump is bad and that half of the tank is full while the other half if empty and that side's pump is good. Could this be possible? I haven't found any documentation stating how our system works.

When it comes to fuel pressure, there's a very pressurized stream of gas that shoots out very strongly at the fuel rail now, so I honestly don't think that fuel is my problem now. I'm going to have my dad crank the engine while I check for spark since as of now, it seems like it wants to start, but it doesn't. The only thing I haven't checked as of now is spark...since I haven't had anybody to help me when I'm working on the car....so fingers are crossed that it starts today!

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Alright, fiddled around with it some more today....

Checked for spark and it does actually spark, just VERY weakly....I'm starting to wonder how old the MSD coil is on this car. I then changed plugs to NGK BKR6EGP since the old Bosch FR7DCs looked fouled to me...and it turns over and seems like it wants to fire up, but never actually does. After trying to start it, I took out the plugs and white smoke came out of the hole...I guess it's normal? Or is it something I need to be worried about?

Fuel pressure is no longer a problem as there is PLENTY of gas at the rail under pressure. However, when I took out the injectors, injector 1 (the one closest to the front of the engine) was missing an o-ring. All the others have a black o-ring and then a clear-ish o-ring near the tip, but the first injector was missing this o-ring. Could this be the cause of it not wanting to stay idling as there could possibly be a leak coming from there?

So now, the only possibilities left are: ECM and the MSD coil/wire. I'm still waiting on my OBD cable to check for codes...

How likely is it that the ECM is bad? I read that there was a TSB on flashing M4.4 to have easier starting and also better idling? I checked the VINs and my car isn't in the range of cars affected...so I really don't know.

Anybody know how to test the coil to see if it's good? I have no spares to test with...The main thing I've found is that the coil wire doesn't have that "click" feeling on the end where it goes to the distributor cap...but it's not loose, so I'm never sure if it's actually seated or not, but I can't force it in anymore...

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IT RUNS! I decided to check if my plug wires were in the right order or not...and turns out, they weren't :S. I had the first 2 cylinders right, but the last three were all wrong, so following Bay 13's pictures, I replugged them the way they were supposed to be, and it fired right up.

However, I have a P0102 which means a bad MAF and it's obvious that it's bad since it hunts like crazy for an idle so as of now, it's unplugged.

Weird thing tho, if I have the whole intake hooked up, it chokes on itself and stalls out, but fires right up again. So as of now, I unhooked the intake from the MAF so the whole filter is bypassed....but it runs well like this, so IDK. any ideas? I also saw my boost increase, does this sound right?

Also, there's a slight stumble at speed sometimes but I have a hard time reproducing it...

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the IAC is fine, works like a charm. Actually, I'm thinking it's the air pump that's causing me troubles. When I first got the car, the air pump wasn't hooked up to the airbox, but I got the hose and hooked it up, so I'll try with it unhooked tonight. Funny thing is that it runs perfectly w/o the air box hooked up and boosts even more than I used to see.

To get more boost, do you lengthen the rod or do you shorten it?

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