ozzimark Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 It just seems so f-ing tight and the fact that the tensioner pulley has to be completely un-tensioned for ANYTHING to go makes me think it is too short.But that's exactly the idea.. the tensioner isn't taking up all that much slack. The belt will be tight when you first put it on because it will stretch out a small amount shortly after you put it on. Don't give up, you can get it. B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlvinL Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 As you route the belt, it must be tight between the intake, exhaust and crank pulley. Any slack there means lost slack for getting around the tensioner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsup Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 That's weird my Continental belt had some slack in it, enough that I had to use the bungee cord method to hold the tensioner pulley to make it taught when rotating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoWagon Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 there's 150 posts on how to replace a timing belt? Maybe this shouldn't be a DIY for the original poster put tensioner pulley in (if replaced), put tensioner in there with pin still in. route belt from crank, around tensioner pulley, around water pump, pull upwards hard to make sure you're hooked on the crank, slide it on the idler pulley, now the next is preference. Volvo tells you to put on the exhaust first then the intake, I pull upwards hard, make the teeth line up on the intake, then flip it on the exhaust.If you're having this much trouble, why not bring it to a shop? They'll charge you probably 1 1/2 hours... plus if they screw it up, they buy it. If you screw it up, you'll be starting a post "Looking for Head Removal Tips" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoWagon Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Oh and you don't need a cam lock tool.The only time I've used a cam lock tool is when I'm either: #1: Taking off a VVT pulley#2: Putting the valve cover back onOther than that, if the cam moves on you (rarely happens anyways) just use your man force and move the cam back to TDC by hand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkydog Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Any chance the belt is hung up on the standoff down by the crank? If not maybe you should take the belt off and compare it to the old one. To be 100% sure count the teeth on the belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a2matt Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 doing the hydraulic tensioner now... then routing the belt then testing, then pulling the pin... lets hope it does not go boomFail. You made the same mistake that I did. Bolt the hydraulic tensioner on AFTER the belt is routed. There will be plenty of slack. If there isn't, then the belt is hung up around the crank pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoWagon Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Fail. You made the same mistake that I did. Bolt the hydraulic tensioner on AFTER the belt is routed. There will be plenty of slack. If there isn't, then the belt is hung up around the crank pulley.Coming from experience? I've only done 100+ timing belts, and I've always bolted the tensioner on first...But you know, I'm sure you've done many too :rolleyes: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 I have finally been able to get the belt tight around the intake side and slipped it on the exhaust to the water pump and then the tensioner... the intake side is not lining upr correctorly because if I want to keep it tight the teeth in the belt and the teeth in the intake CAM do not fall into each other so I have to move the intake CAm which makes it out of line... grrr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 Ok, so this is as good as I have got with the tension really tight on the crank to intake CAM and some slack from the exhaust to the tensionerIntake side (it is within the triangle but not sure if it needs to be EXACTLY lined uphere is the exhaust sidethe crank is spot on with the line on the oil pump... all I have to do is pull the pin but I wanted to make sure those will be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 *********** pulled the pin ************* Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 *********** pulled the pin *************what is this, twitter???GTFO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tylem28 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 i havent done the timing belt before but I thought I read somewhere that it has to be exact and not even off one tooth or you will have problems? Maybe im wrong. Hopefully someone will chine in to clarify. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
64pvolvo1800 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 *********** pulled the pin *************Never mind the blow by blow......DRIVE that bitch already :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted April 5, 2009 Report Share Posted April 5, 2009 i havent done the timing belt before but I thought I read somewhere that it has to be exact and not even off one tooth or you will have problems? Maybe im wrong. Hopefully someone will chine in to clarify.You are correct. His gears are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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