Matts 850 GLT Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 HiI reckon I need to pull my head off to change the valve stem oil seals (175k miles).Is this straight forward or can it be done without removing the head?I get a puff of blue smoke at start up, sometimes a lot and sometimes none. Is there anything I can do to reduce this before pulling the head?ThanksMatt(car is 97 2.3 T5 auto - I can't change my username so if anyone knows how please let me know-ta) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcovey Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 I've seen a thread where people claim you can do the valve stem seals with the head on the block, but having performed this job during a full rebuild, I don't see how.Pull the head. Now the real fun starts, since the valve springs are recessed in the head, you have to have a valve spring compressor tool that looks like a big C clamp, but that only gets you half way there, since this type of tool is designed for a head with exposed valve springs like on a Chevy. I cut a 2.5" section of galvanized pipe 3/4 inches in diameter (it could have been 1" but I think 3/4). then I used my cutoff wheel to cut 1/3 of the pipe out leaving a window with a full circle at the top and bottom this allowed me to access the valve retainer keepers when the valve spring was compressed. Then I polished th pipe and made sure all the edges were smooth, you don't want to scratch the head where the valve lifters ride. (send me a PM and remind me and I'll take a picture of the assembled tool).There are some sweet valve keeper tools that hold the keepers and help remove and install them, I didn't have that sweet tool, I used a screwdriver to take them off and a long set of tweezers and assembly lube to re-install them. The assembly lube makes them stick to the valve stem which is a big help.Getting the old valve stem seals off can be a PITA, I finally found a nice set of plug wire pliers with coated, rounded ends that I could get a good grip on the seals and pull them off. To re-install, use plenty of lube and a deep 1/4" drive 10mm socket, the valve seal will fit in the end and the sides of the socket will press directly on the metal part of the seal to get them back on. I know you can use comressed air to keep the valves up while doing this job on the car, but as long as you have the head off you can put a new head gasket on, and I honestly don't know what tool you'd use as a valve spring compressor with the head still on the block.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1mmer Posted March 23, 2009 Report Share Posted March 23, 2009 I've seen a thread where people claim you can do the valve stem seals with the head on the block, but having performed this job during a full rebuild, I don't see how.Pull the head. Now the real fun starts, since the valve springs are recessed in the head, you have to have a valve spring compressor tool that looks like a big C clamp, but that only gets you half way there, since this type of tool is designed for a head with exposed valve springs like on a Chevy. I cut a 2.5" section of galvanized pipe 3/4 inches in diameter (it could have been 1" but I think 3/4). then I used my cutoff wheel to cut 1/3 of the pipe out leaving a window with a full circle at the top and bottom this allowed me to access the valve retainer keepers when the valve spring was compressed. Then I polished th pipe and made sure all the edges were smooth, you don't want to scratch the head where the valve lifters ride. (send me a PM and remind me and I'll take a picture of the assembled tool).There are some sweet valve keeper tools that hold the keepers and help remove and install them, I didn't have that sweet tool, I used a screwdriver to take them off and a long set of tweezers and assembly lube to re-install them. The assembly lube makes them stick to the valve stem which is a big help.Getting the old valve stem seals off can be a PITA, I finally found a nice set of plug wire pliers with coated, rounded ends that I could get a good grip on the seals and pull them off. To re-install, use plenty of lube and a deep 1/4" drive 10mm socket, the valve seal will fit in the end and the sides of the socket will press directly on the metal part of the seal to get them back on. I know you can use comressed air to keep the valves up while doing this job on the car, but as long as you have the head off you can put a new head gasket on, and I honestly don't know what tool you'd use as a valve spring compressor with the head still on the block.Good luck.Did you find that you needed to replace the valve guides too, or just the stem seals? Having found the best price on the guides at Darryl Waltrip Volvo at $7 a piece, I would prefer not to spend the money if it's not necessary. - AB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcovey Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 I only had 106K miles on the engine when I threw the crankshaft pulley under heavy acceleration, and the only real damage was 4 bent valves, but as long as I had it apart........So I didn't do the valve guides, but I did have the head and the new valves cut at the machine shop, if you disassemble the head yourself it's only ~$250.00, and I hate to do things half way.Make sure you buy the Volvo gasket material for the cam cover, plus new spark plug channel gaskets, and apply the liquid gasket lightly to the center section where the lifter oil channels are, you can go a little heavier on the outside edges and any areas that don't have oil channels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcovey Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 Here is the tool I made, this is the second try the first one which was too short actually got a good polish, this one made in the heat of battle just got deburred and lightly sanded.It is just under 1" OD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 you can just buy a fully rebuilt head for $400 shipped .....I have one sitting in my garage as we speak :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 you can just buy a fully rebuilt head for $400 shipped .....I have one sitting in my garage as we speak haha, how are their heads holding up actually... good deal but are they good heads?you hit 230 to the wheels if I remember correctly :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 haha, how are their heads holding up actually... good deal but are they good heads?you hit 230 to the wheels if I remember correctly lol thats was a stock head from volvo all there doing is what everyone else is here doing but whole lot more. Take a stock head. Remove valves Remove SealsRemove other stuffAcid dip it and clean it up and deck the head and such put it all back together. simple as that . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matts 850 GLT Posted March 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 I've seen a thread where people claim you can do the valve stem seals with the head on the block, but having performed this job during a full rebuild, I don't see how.Pull the head. Now the real fun starts, since the valve springs are recessed in the head, you have to have a valve spring compressor tool that looks like a big C clamp, but that only gets you half way there, since this type of tool is designed for a head with exposed valve springs like on a Chevy. I cut a 2.5" section of galvanized pipe 3/4 inches in diameter (it could have been 1" but I think 3/4). then I used my cutoff wheel to cut 1/3 of the pipe out leaving a window with a full circle at the top and bottom this allowed me to access the valve retainer keepers when the valve spring was compressed. Then I polished th pipe and made sure all the edges were smooth, you don't want to scratch the head where the valve lifters ride. (send me a PM and remind me and I'll take a picture of the assembled tool).There are some sweet valve keeper tools that hold the keepers and help remove and install them, I didn't have that sweet tool, I used a screwdriver to take them off and a long set of tweezers and assembly lube to re-install them. The assembly lube makes them stick to the valve stem which is a big help.Getting the old valve stem seals off can be a PITA, I finally found a nice set of plug wire pliers with coated, rounded ends that I could get a good grip on the seals and pull them off. To re-install, use plenty of lube and a deep 1/4" drive 10mm socket, the valve seal will fit in the end and the sides of the socket will press directly on the metal part of the seal to get them back on. I know you can use comressed air to keep the valves up while doing this job on the car, but as long as you have the head off you can put a new head gasket on, and I honestly don't know what tool you'd use as a valve spring compressor with the head still on the block.Good luck.Thanks I also understood that you can change the seals with the head in situ but my Volvo guy says they take the head off. Thanks for your post.Here is the tool I made, this is the second try the first one which was too short actually got a good polish, this one made in the heat of battle just got deburred and lightly sanded.It is just under 1" OD.I can see how that works, I don't have access to a machine so I think I might buy a rebuilt head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matts 850 GLT Posted March 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 lol thats was a stock head from volvo all there doing is what everyone else is here doing but whole lot more. Take a stock head. Remove valves Remove SealsRemove other stuffAcid dip it and clean it up and deck the head and such put it all back together. simple as that .At this point I think a rebuilt head is the way to go. Yes its cheaper to get all the parts and do it myself but as this will require some machine skill I think i will buy in a rebuilt head. It doesn't cost much more and at least I know trained people have fixed it. I can then bolt on the new head with new gaskets and seals and new t-belt/water pump and tensioner. Should last much longer.ThanksMatt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoWagon Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 there's a snapon tool that I own, I'll get the part number tomorrow, I can remove all the keepers/springs from all 20 valves, with head on, or off, in 5 minutes.Nifty little tool and useful for that type of thing.I'll post the snapon part number tomorrow at work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bum2kev Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 there's a snapon tool that I own, I'll get the part number tomorrow, I can remove all the keepers/springs from all 20 valves, with head on, or off, in 5 minutes.Nifty little tool and useful for that type of thing.I'll post the snapon part number tomorrow at work.please do. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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