wheelsup Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 First couple are of the dipstick. The car was losing coolant however it's a slow pace, indie pressure tested the system and found a small leak in the radiator. So I know it needs replacing. However I'm worried about the drops of water on the dipstick, could that still be from a PCV? Compression is 185 on the lowest cylinder and 195 on the highest cylinder.It was replaced by a shop around 2 years ago but I don't think they knew what they were doing.Also it looks like an o-ring might be failing on my lower trans line? Or something more serious? I'm confused because it looks like the part that plugs into the transmission is also seeping just a bit. But thru the metal??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted March 24, 2009 Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 I would get the Rad Replaced ASAP $200 ish shipped from DWHVThat would be from your PCV if they only replaced the system and dint clean out the bottom holes And everyones tranny connection lines look like that after 10+ years just wipe them clean :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsup Posted March 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2009 I would get the Rad Replaced ASAP $200 ish shipped from DWHVThat would be from your PCV if they only replaced the system and dint clean out the bottom holes And everyones tranny connection lines look like that after 10+ years just wipe them clean OK thanks man that makes me feel better about those lines.I think all they did was replace stuff, because I see white smoke when I pull the dipstick. So I guess I need to replace the radiator, then once that checks out I'll dive into the PCV system and clean it. If everything has been replaced I can just reuse the parts, correct? IE I shouldn't have to purchase anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 The condensation on the dipstick is normal if you do a lot of short drives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt b Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 The condensation on the dipstick is normal if you do a lot of short drives.Yeah, you should not see it for much longer now that the weather is warming up. If you are losing coolant into your oil from your rad, get it replaced ASAP, coolant isn't the best of lubricants. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 Since you are replacing the radiator, I would suggest these important tips:1. The Trans Cooler Line O-rings are very cheap, get new O-rings from dealers for a few dollars each.2. The Metal Clip holding the cooler lines: make sure they are in good shape. Use a snap-ring pliers to remove them, it is alot easier with the snap-ring pliers.When installing back, make sure the wider part of these Metal Clips go toward the radiator.It will click in.Use Mobil1 ATF fluid.Then add one single screw-type clamp around the Metal Clip to prevent the cooler from coming loose. This is the trick from Volvo OEM Mechanic!Don't ask me how I know this. Read my experience with cooler line coming off on the highway:http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=108979 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 pcv system isnt bad and like others have said condensation could be from short drives. For peace of mind replace the o ring at the oil pan from the dipstick. Moisture can get in that way too. Its a 5$ part unscrew one bolt pull the dipstick up and replace the seal at the end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsup Posted March 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 OK thanks guys when you buy the radiator from the Volvo dealer linked on here do they send all the o-rings you need? Or should I go to mine locally to pick those up?I'm losing coolant slowly but I can't find where, there is no residue or oil in the coolant. My indie said it was leaking where the plastic/metal parts meet up but I can't find any residue anywhere. He didn't do a chemical test on the tank because he said he found the leak on the radiator. I trust him but just kinda wanted to see where the leak was for myself. I thought I would've seen something. At first I thought it was a headgasket but I think with my compression numbers I don't think thats a concern. That's why I put off replacing the rad, if it was the head I'd probably end up getting rid of the car and I didn't want to dump money into it. I guess I should replace the rad, and have him pressure test it again. If it comes up clean I'll take apart the PCV system again and clean it nicely. I make longer drives (21 miles each way every few days) and the water drops are still there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FredMc Posted March 25, 2009 Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 OK thanks guys when you buy the radiator from the Volvo dealer linked on here do they send all the o-rings you need? Or should I go to mine locally to pick those up?I'm losing coolant slowly but I can't find where, there is no residue or oil in the coolant. My indie said it was leaking where the plastic/metal parts meet up but I can't find any residue anywhere. He didn't do a chemical test on the tank because he said he found the leak on the radiator. I trust him but just kinda wanted to see where the leak was for myself. I thought I would've seen something. At first I thought it was a headgasket but I think with my compression numbers I don't think thats a concern. That's why I put off replacing the rad, if it was the head I'd probably end up getting rid of the car and I didn't want to dump money into it. I guess I should replace the rad, and have him pressure test it again. If it comes up clean I'll take apart the PCV system again and clean it nicely. I make longer drives (21 miles each way every few days) and the water drops are still there.-replace radiator (FCP Groton or Waltrip)-buy all new seals and o rings and connectors (FCP Groton or Waltrip)Also, the oil cooler line (trans or engine oil) leaks at the crimped metal to tube interface. It will get worse, my advice replace them. Mobil 1 ATF is a good suggestionI used Amsoil synthetic just for kicks (expensive kicks) but it shifts very smoothlyJust did a few drain and fills (3 to be exact, 1 with just Dexron III, then two with Amsoil AFT).No worries. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsup Posted March 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2009 -replace radiator (FCP Groton or Waltrip)-buy all new seals and o rings and connectors (FCP Groton or Waltrip)Also, the oil cooler line (trans or engine oil) leaks at the crimped metal to tube interface. It will get worse, my advice replace them. Mobil 1 ATF is a good suggestionI used Amsoil synthetic just for kicks (expensive kicks) but it shifts very smoothlyJust did a few drain and fills (3 to be exact, 1 with just Dexron III, then two with Amsoil AFT).No worries.Man those lines are $100... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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