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Speaker Interchangeability And Impedance


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Resistors? :o I disagree. Bad Plan. This is not a good idea...

We're talking about AC impedences here. NOT DC.

4 "speaker nominal ohms" + 4 "fixed resistive" ohms are apples and oranges.

A standard electrical meter measures resistance in ohms at DC only.

That's why the ratings are always stated as NOMINAL impedences. It varies.

Hello again,

I don't plan to argue this to death, as this will be my last post on the matter. However, I think that some of you are still missing the point. Whether the voltage is AC or DC, it will still pass through the resistor and total 8Ω if wired in series with the driver. Doesn't matter if the current is AC, as both directions will still equal 8Ω (hence why it equals 8Ω both ways if tested with a meter).

I agree that most speakers don't measure out to be what the nominal rating indicates, as my home theater speakers are rated @ 8Ω and only measure 5.5-6Ω. That is not really the point here. The point is, whatever they measure, it is still going to be roughly half of what he has now. I agree that he should test them both with a meter to be sure what they actually measure.

I still do not understand why a resistor is such a bad idea though. I have been using them for years in my home audio system. I have never had one become even warm to the touch (with 150+ watts running through 20W resistors). I definitely don't think he'll have an issue with the small amount of power he's running with that amp. However, everyone else here seems to know it all, so I must be wrong. They've always worked for me though with no trouble. Hell, let him run that R amp at 2.67Ω and see what happens. Either way, something going to get real hot. I'd rather it be a $2 resistor than a somewhat rare amp, but what the hell do I know?

Good luck to you,

Joe

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It would equal 4. Speakers wired in series do not change the ohm load to the amp. Speakrs wired in parallel efectively half the ohm load for each additional speaker added. I.E. 3-8ohm speakers in parallel = a 2ohm load

Not to nitpick, but yeah, they do. But it's not always that simple.

Connecting a woofer and tweeter in series brings a few other issues into the mix.

That's why passive crossovers are usually used. But I'm not gonna go there right now...

And parallel wiring can be a little misleading, too.

The numbers get a lot of people, so I'm gonna add my take on it.

You're bang on that it would "effectively half the ohm load" in numbers,

but for the audience, fewer ohms actually means an increased load on the amp.

Two speakers in parallel Increase the load. 8 ohms = less load, 2 ohms = more load.

So the lower the number in ohms, the greater the load that's presented to the amp.

Another example, just a piece of wire would pretty much be 0 ohms,

but would completely short the amp with a "maximum" load.

So the more speakers that you hang off of an amp's output,

the closer you get to a dead short. Then all the smoke comes out...

I hate when that happens! :lol:

This is a great place to read up: Series Vs. Parallel Wiring.

( Thanks to Turbo Moose for coming up with the link ! Somebody should sticky this!!!)

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I ran my "R" 200w amp with the stock rear deck 8Ω speakers, and the Vifa 4Ω replacements for a day. The amp never felt overly warm to the touch. But I didn't want to chance it, which is why I got the resistors. The amp ran cooler after the resistors were added. The overall sound from the replacement speakers seemed to sound a lot better when the resistors were being used. Without them there's some distortion when played loud.

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And parallel wiring can be a little misleading, too.

The numbers get a lot of people, so I'm gonna add my take on it.

You're bang on that it would "effectively half the ohm load" in numbers,

but for the audience, fewer ohms actually means an increased load on the amp.

Two speakers in parallel Increase the load. 8 ohms = less load, 2 ohms = more load.

So the lower the number in ohms, the greater the load that's presented to the amp.

I took for granted that people knew.

My last car a '00 Vw Jetta GLX I competed in car audio. I competed in the under 750 watt class. I had two amps. An Orion HCCA 4x100 that was 1ohm stable and a 250 watt Orion mono sub amp. front sound stage had 4- 6.5" boston midbass and 2- 4" mid highs and 2-1" tweeters. Rear sound stage had same setup. Subs were 2-12" Kicker solobarics. 130SPL with only 650 watts. All you gotta do is drive the amps harder. ;)

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I found some 4 ohm resistors, they are cheap so I'm just going to try them. Worst case scenario the sound quality isn't super/it doesn't work, so I'll take them out.

What wattage do I need? Will a 4 ohm 10W do the trick?

Thanks again for everyone's help!

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I found some 4 ohm resistors, they are cheap so I'm just going to try them. Worst case scenario the sound quality isn't super/it doesn't work, so I'll take them out.

What wattage do I need? Will a 4 ohm 10W do the trick?

Thanks again for everyone's help!

IIRC they should be rated at 1/10th total wattage passing through. so a 10w is good for a 100w RMS signal

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