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Worth Upgrading To 15g?


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Hello everyone,

I have a 2000 S70 AWD with stock ECM and 13T turbo. Car has 125k miles and has had synthetic oil since 48k. IPD TCV, new CBV diaphragm and silicone vaccum lines. K&N panel element as well. Wastegate set to 3 psi. Turbo still doesn't seem to spool as easily as the wife's '95 850T. I remember a post a few weeks with a video of the compressor wheel with the fresh air hose removed. Turbo was not spinning at idle, which someone said was failing bearings. Now, I have not tried this test on mine, but am wondering why such a small turbo doesn't spool easier. It spools plenty quick when pressed hard, and still gets to the 6 psi spec, but I can get to 1/2 throttle during normal driving before I have any boost. Car will come out of lock-up on the highway (cruise set) before I see any boost (seems to me it would make more sense to boost first, but maybe they are trying not to smoke the lock-up clutch?). I'd like more boost at less throttle. Anyway, the reason for this rant is this. If I can acquire say, a 15G, and swap my angled flange to fit, would there be any benefit with stock boost? Or is it just a waste of time? I know in theory a 13T should boost easier than a 15G. Also, is there much difference (besides the turbine housing) between the 15G and 16T?

Thanks in advance,

Joe

P.S. - Hope this is in the right section...

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95= conical (smaller) housing = faster spooling. might be a 6cm as well.

your 2000 will be angled, and might be a 7cm housing, = lag.

The difference in wheel size/weight (inertia) between 13 and 15 (and 16) is minimal.

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95= conical (smaller) housing = faster spooling. might be a 6cm as well.

your 2000 will be angled, and might be a 7cm housing, = lag.

The difference in wheel size/weight (inertia) between 13 and 15 (and 16) is minimal.

Hello,

Thanks for the reply. I can (and will need to) swap my angled turbine housing to it though, right? (I know you normally can on all TD04's but the part of 6cm vs. 7 has me wondering). I will still end up with the 7 I have, right? If the 15G will come on earlier and harder, I'm all for it. The wife's 850T runs circles around mine as far as boost production, even though I have the smaller turbo and AWD drag to get it to spool. I don't know if it's maybe partially because of the ETS though. As I said, her car will stay in lock-up on highway hills (and go into boost instead). Mine goes to roughly "0" on the boost gauge and kicks down from lockup instead. If it were meant to prolong the convertor clutch, I would think her's would do the same. But who knows...

Thanks again,

Joe

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i would just go straight to the 16t, there are a handfull of guys on the forums have upgraded their lpt to the 16t

I'd love to, as that's my first choice. I have a line on a 15G though and cannot spend much on this (I know, everyone wants something for nothing :)). Wife and I just had a baby boy in January, so things are kind of tight. Is there really that much difference between the 15G and 16T? I don't really care about top RPM boost as much as hard and heavy lower end boost (kind of like the RWD red block Garrett turbo's used to have). My 760T would plant yu in the seat compared to my S70...

Thanks,

Joe

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You'll love the 15G. When we manual swapped my 98 AWD we put the 15G on (straight flange) to replace the 13G and it was a wonderful difference. At the time I was running a stock T5 M ECU with white 350cc injectors (1 step up from the stock reds) and I was getting 28 mpg highway and the car dynoed 218 whp on an AWD Dynojet with 240 wtq. Pretty good numbers for the upgrades above and a TME catback exhaust and cone air filter (have since added the S60R manifold and custom software from Sweden).

Good luck on the upgrade. You shouldn't need to upgrade injectors or software. It should adapt fine. And I think there's less than an 8% difference in flow on the 15G and 16T not to mention you're making it angled flange so that'll help too.

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told you my thoughts in response to your pm do eeeet lol

Aaron,

Would I ever doubt you? :) I posted this thread before I PM'd you. I know the 15G would be better with a tune, I'm just curious if it's worthwhile with the stock software. I assume it will be. I am not looking for any additoonal psi, just more "put you in the seat" feel. My 242T was only set to 6 psi and you had better be holding onto something when you punched that. That was with that huge T3 of course :). I'd love for the S70 to make more use of the turbo instead of downshifting all of the time. What's the use of the turbo if it kicks down and doesn't use it to it's potential?

Thanks to all,

Joe

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95= conical (smaller) housing = faster spooling. might be a 6cm as well.

your 2000 will be angled, and might be a 7cm housing, = lag.

The difference in wheel size/weight (inertia) between 13 and 15 (and 16) is minimal.

Of the 10 conical housings I have here, they are all 7 cm.

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Hello,

Thanks for the reply. I can (and will need to) swap my angled turbine housing to it though, right? (I know you normally can on all TD04's but the part of 6cm vs. 7 has me wondering). I will still end up with the 7 I have, right? If the 15G will come on earlier and harder, I'm all for it. The wife's 850T runs circles around mine as far as boost production, even though I have the smaller turbo and AWD drag to get it to spool. I don't know if it's maybe partially because of the ETS though. As I said, her car will stay in lock-up on highway hills (and go into boost instead). Mine goes to roughly "0" on the boost gauge and kicks down from lockup instead. If it were meant to prolong the convertor clutch, I would think her's would do the same. But who knows...

Thanks again,

Joe

For what you want, the best combo would be your current 13T with a 6cm angled housing. Let's make sure you have a 7 cm angled first. Can you get the numbers stamped on the turbine (exhaust) housing? (not the turbo ID plate)

Yes, all TD04HL 6/7 interchange.

And yes, sounds like the ETS has something to do here...

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95= conical (smaller) housing = faster spooling. might be a 6cm as well.

your 2000 will be angled, and might be a 7cm housing, = lag.

The difference in wheel size/weight (inertia) between 13 and 15 (and 16) is minimal.

Are you sure?

Picture of a 15 and 13

imagew3.jpg

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you would be better off investing that money in a nice tune

Thanks for the input. Problem is, I don't have that much money to spend on this (see above) :). I am acquiring the 15G in a trade. I am not an expert, but I don't see how it wouldn't be an improvement, even on a stock tune. How would it be any different than an 850T or R up to 6 psi?

Thanks,

Joe

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you would be better off investing that money in a nice tune

not true - who really wants a tune for a 13g

by the time you're done tunning that you'll be kicking yourself for not spending 150 -200 more for a used 16t or 15g

get a 15g or 16t run it until you can afford the tune - it will make you happy ;) with or without a tune

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