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Any Reason Not To Upgrade From The 16t To The 18t?


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The turbocharger on my '98 V70 T5 manual developed an oil leak and needs to be replaced. This is the factory original 16T turbo.

Is there any reason not to upgrade from the 16T to 18T? The 18T (PN 8601456) is a drop-in? Does it use the same installation kit (bolts, studs etc.) as the 16T?

Is there any chance that it will throw error codes? I don't see why, but I thought I'd better ask those who have done this before to be sure.

In case I ever want to sell the car, I'm guessing the upgrade wouldn't hurt its value (this is an 11 1/2 year old white Volvo station wagon with 180k+ on the clock) would it?

Thanks!

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The turbocharger on my '98 V70 T5 manual developed an oil leak and needs to be replaced. This is the factory original 16T turbo.

Is there any reason not to upgrade from the 16T to 18T? The 18T (PN 8601456) is a drop-in? Does it use the same installation kit (bolts, studs etc.) as the 16T?

Is there any chance that it will throw error codes? I don't see why, but I thought I'd better ask those who have done this before to be sure.

In case I ever want to sell the car, I'm guessing the upgrade wouldn't hurt its value (this is an 11 1/2 year old white Volvo station wagon with 180k+ on the clock) would it?

Thanks!

I'm sure others will chime in, but I think it may be a mistake. Going from 15g to 16t is one thing, but from 16 to 18 I think you'll need a tune.

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Going from 15g to 16t is one thing, but from 16 to 18 I think you'll need a tune.

It will bolt right on assuming you have the same exhaust flange, but you will need to retune for it.

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I'm sure others will chime in, but I think it may be a mistake. Going from 15g to 16t is one thing, but from 16 to 18 I think you'll need a tune.

"Tune" (software upgrade?) to benefit from the 18T, or in order for it to run with the 18T without throwing codes? Can the car's ECU tell the difference between the 16T and the 18T if you don't tell it that it's there?

I'd plan to upgrade the software and exhaust eventually -- so I guess my question is can I do this slowly, beginning with the turbocharger, or do I need to do everything at once?

I've had the oil return line leak in the past and it seems to be doing it yet again -- but this time it looks like the turbo is leaking, too.

Thanks!

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The tune would be to safeguard your poor stock connecting rods, as well as take advantage of the increases that an 18T will give you. Bolting on an 18T to your engine while running a stock tune, well it can be done sure. We'll wait for your thread about a rod knock after that though. :)

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We'll wait for your thread about a rod knock after that though.

...or for the appearance of a V70T5 5-speed that "needs engine" in the "Classifieds".

If the turbo needs to be replaced, for the few-hundred dollars premium over the 16T this seemed like a "freebie". (Almost like when I bought the car in the first place in 1997. "It can be ordered with a 5-speed manual transmission? And that actually costs *less*?)

OK, Maybe not.

The interesting part of this saga is the car still doesn't use much oil.

Thanks!

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there is a thread stickied at the top of this page called "modyifying front wheel drive volvos" it is full of useful information on questions like this and many others. you will enjoy the read.

Yes, it is...

The setup I would recommend to most users: TD04HL-18T turbocharger, IPD intercooler upgrade, SAMCO silicon boost hoses, 3" exhaust system, 350cc or larger injectors with custom ECU programming from a reputable tuner, and either manual transmission swap or automatic with aftermarket cooler and nice fresh fluid. This will produce an extremely quick car in the 18-21 psi range, and will be relatively reliable as it utilizes all Volvo factory parts and design considerations while not exceeding the safe limitations for the stock block.

The quote from the stickied thread seems to be giving a "thumbs up" on the idea, but the consensus so far seems to be "thumbs down".

The car, although it has high -- mostly highway -- miles, has been maintained at least "by the book" and with Mobil-1 since it was new. The clutch is the original one, the transmission shifts smoother than the Getrag on my BMW, it passed the state emissions dyno test with flying colors six months ago, and a Blackstone labs oil analysis a couple of oil changes ago looked excellent. When something breaks, I fix it, and try to upgrade when I can -- which is why I asked the original question.

Thanks!

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forget the people who are saying no.

you said you'll get a tune and exhaust eventually.

with your boost kept down at 10psi (stock), there are pretty small chances of you bending rods.

put on the 18t if you're looking for a simple bolt on upgrade, and try to get the tune and exhaust sooner than later....it's simple

and you can get any 18t and bolt it on....you may have to swap the exhaust housing over from your 16t depending on what outlet it is (straight or angled), but that's only 1 vband.

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Stock ecu right? You'll be fine, just bolt it on. If you want to increase boost in the future, then you'll need to adjust fuel and timing.

exactly. keep the boost down until you're tuned, which you're planning on doing anyway in the near future.

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Stock ecu right? You'll be fine, just bolt it on. If you want to increase boost in the future, then you'll need to adjust fuel and timing.

exactly. keep the boost down until you're tuned, which you're planning on doing anyway in the near future.

"Near future" is relative. I added the IPD bars when the car was new, but I only upgraded to Bilsteins at about 100k, when the originals were worn. C70 E-codes came at about 150k.

The 18T costs about $50 more than the 16T. Plus the $250 lost core charge. If I don't get around to doing the ECU, exhaust and injectors -- or just upgrade the exhaust -- will the 18T make my life miserable? Will it throw codes?

I'm guessing there are about 100 people in the entire country who might think a white 1998 Volvo V70 T5 station wagon with a manual transmission is actually desirable. I'm also guessing that a few of them hang around here. When/if it ever comes time to sell the car, would an 18T upgrade be considered a good thing? (Probably not if it comes with a "Check Engine" light!)

Should I spend the $300?

Thanks!

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