NJGreenBudd Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 So my angle gear has been seeping for ever but when doing the oil change yesterday I noticed what looks like a trans leak. I haven't noticed any worse driving that normal recently, my trans seems fine as does my angle gear but this certainly isn't proper. I was hoping for some input about each of these leaks. It looks like the trans one emanates mostly from that one bolt where it still looks moist, maybe just a loose bolt?Previous photo from 30,000miles ago.New Photo from Yesterday at 89,500 miles-I appreciate any advice here, I am hoping to get a good understanding of whats going on before I make any expensive repairs.Thanks-NJGB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted April 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 So I was trying to find more info on the TSB for the angle gear -TSB Number:RTJ-18513 NHTSA Number:10026550 TSB Date:September 19, 2008 Date Added to File:November 7, 2008Failing Component:Steering:Rack And Pinion:Pinion ShaftSummary:Volvo: angle gear leakage and resealing for 5 cylinder awd only vehicles. Oil leaking/moisture from the angle gear halves can be resolved by resealing the housing and replacing the seals.But is sounds like resealing the unit should stop the leak, I haven't had any loss of AWD function so i I assume the collar is still good in there.But what about the new trans leak, the big red stain, that wasn't there last time I changed the oil 7,000 miles ago. At the same time I also did a transmission drain and fill flush with IPD's kit, I haven't noticed any troubles with the trans since then or anytime really. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Will Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 Assuming the angle gear still works properly (you can test this with the car up in the air by turning it and seeing if the half shafts turn without any slip), I would consider replacing the collar sleeve anyway as after 90K miles it is probably wearing. You can replace the seals, re-seal the unit and I think even these can have a drain hole drilled if you so desire.At least replace the gear oil while it's out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 Assuming the angle gear still works properly (you can test this with the car up in the air by turning it and seeing if the half shafts turn without any slip), I would consider replacing the collar sleeve anyway as after 90K miles it is probably wearing. You can replace the seals, re-seal the unit and I think even these can have a drain hole drilled if you so desire.At least replace the gear oil while it's out.Hello,That's great advice. I would R&R the gear, reseal per the bulletin, and replace the two transmission seals while it's out (that stain appears to be just a rust stain, not transmission leakage; might as well do the axle seal and collar gear seal on the transmission while the angle gear is out though). As Will said, absolutely replace the collar gear for preventive maintenance. Mine stripped @ 124k, taking the angle gear input splines with it. Repair was over $1300 in parts (with my dealer discount that is). Do yourself a favor and remove it, replace the collar gear, and reseal the angle gear. Install the updated angle gear vent while it's out as well.Let me know if you need anything else,Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 my guess would be thats the collar gear leakign out of there. it probally rusted before and had a load of rusty water in between and now finally when the collar kicked the bucketall the water between each gear tooth came outalso seen this on alot of the AWD cars I parted out . has it rain alot have you gone through alot of big puddles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted April 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 I really appreciate all the input here guys, helps me to approach this in a more organized manner.And I hope that is just a weird stain and not a trans leak, no big rains lately, no big puddles recently. I'm going to see if I can't tell exactly where it's coming from later on.So I'm hoping to reseal angle gear and replace the collar gear while it was out, as a precautionary measure to avoid failure. Which two seals exactly do I replace while it's out (axle seal and collar gear seal)?Lastly, are there any special Volvo tools required for these jobs or is this something I can do in my shop? I have swapped motors and trannies before but am I going to have to set backlash or anything like that in the angle gear or is the collar a simple fix?Does anybody know the part #'s for the two seals and collar gear?Thank so much for the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted April 21, 2009 Report Share Posted April 21, 2009 I really appreciate all the input here guys, helps me to approach this in a more organized manner.And I hope that is just a weird stain and not a trans leak, no big rains lately, no big puddles recently. I'm going to see if I can't tell exactly where it's coming from later on.So I'm hoping to reseal angle gear and replace the collar gear while it was out, as a precautionary measure to avoid failure. Which two seals exactly do I replace while it's out (axle seal and collar gear seal)?Lastly, are there any special Volvo tools required for these jobs or is this something I can do in my shop? I have swapped motors and trannies before but am I going to have to set backlash or anything like that in the angle gear or is the collar a simple fix?Does anybody know the part #'s for the two seals and collar gear?Thank so much for the help.Hello again,While I cannot guarantee that it's not a transmission leak, it certainly looks like rusty water marks. Even if it is the transmission leaking, you'll be replacing all external seals when you remove the angle gear anyway. As for the collar gear, that is only a name given to it by some of these forums. It is actually just an internally splined coupling sleeve, between the transmission output and angle gear input (not a "gear" by any means). You do not need to disassemble the angle gear to replace it (but you will need to disassemble to reseal the gear). Anyway, part numbers are:Sleeve (collar gear) - 9495034Seal for collar gear - 8636194RF axle seal (in transmission, not angle gear) - 8636195If you need the P/N's for all of the angle gear seals and new style breather vent, I can get you those (no sense typing all of that if you already have access to the bulletin) . There are Volvo tools for all of the seals, and they make the job so much nicer (they all have depth stops and are nearly fool-proof). Job can certainly be done without them though, just nice to have. Let me know if you need anything else.Good luck,Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NJGreenBudd Posted April 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2009 Joe,Thank you for this information, I do appreciate it man. I actually don't have that TSB so if you could post the part numbers for the angle gear seals and vent it would really help me out.So when I disassemble the angle gear housing to reseal it, am I going to have to "reset" the internal bevel gears backlash or do they all stay set properly? I am comfortable taking it apart but am afraid I wouldn't be able to setup the bevel gears correctly if totally apart.Thanks again for all your time and efforts here, I am looking forward to fixing this now.-Brandon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Will Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 That shouldn't be a problem. Here are some directions from removing the drive shaft that goes into the bevel gear on the side onwards:"Removing the drive shaftPress out the wheel spindle. Detach the drive shaft from the hub. Do not damage the drive shaft boot. Use a tensioner band to pull the spring strut backwards.Remove the screws from the bearing cap for the drive shaft. Pull the drive shaft straight out.Note! Do not pull the outer part of the shaft. Doing so could damage the axial stops in the joints.Removing the propeller shaftRemove the front member from the body, exhaust pipe and three-way catalytic converter (TWC). Remove the brake pipe from the mountings in the member.Remove the screws from the propeller shaft center bearing.Slacken off screws from the support for the center bearing.Marking the propeller shaft CV joint/flangeMark the position of the propeller shaft CV joint/flange. See Replacing bevel gear pinion seal .Press the drive shaft joints together as much as possible.Remove the screws on left-hand side from the support for the center bearing.Remove the shaft from the bevel gear.Leave the end of the shaft resting against the anti-roll bar.Note! Be careful. Do not damage the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) or its cable.Removing bevel gearRemove the 5 screws for the bevel gear. Pull the bevel gear straight out. Then turn it during removal."(VADIS, 2005). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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