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Should I Replace My Ball Joints? Pics Inside


pinky

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I have started to notice the car pulling to the right so an alignment is needed in the near future. I also know that if I have warn ball joints or other bushings that an alignment will be a waste of money till those parts are replaced.

My questions

-By looking at my pics does it look like I should replace my ball joints?

-- they have some cracking its just surface cracking and not split (crack does not go all the way through)

- I also noticed my passenger side end link bushing were replaced recently (only owned the car for a little over a year now). But my driver side end link bushings are destroyed. Can I just buy the bushings or do I have to buy the whole end link. If I do have to by the whole end link why the hell do they make it this way? Its not like the simple metal part is going to wear down, just the rubber bushings are???

- Is there anything else I should check before paying for an alignment?

-Also I have not been able to find ipd sway bar upgrade, or strut braces online. Any links? Is there anything wrong with buying used ipd sway bars?

Pics

Passenger side

IMG_0403.jpg

IMG_0404.jpg

Driver side

IMG_0405.jpg

IMG_0406.jpg

Thank you

-Pinky

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Easiest way to tell if your ball joints need replaced would be to get the car up off the ground in the front with the wheel on and feel around for slop. I'd give that a shot.

You will have to replace the whole endlink, either call DW Volvo or FCP has great deals as well. (they aren't that expensive, take a breath)

Before getting your alignment I'd wiggle the wheel around while up in the air and be sure there's no slop and visually inspect your outer tie rods.

Used sway bars will be fine.....it's the bushings you need to make sure are alright. :)

There's probably more info. to be had so we'll turn the floor over to everyone else, good luck.

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if they are ok now I would just keep an eye on them and check them once a month or so if they haven't been replaced in a while

Well I want to get an alignment and I know changing the ball joints can mess with the alignment. Therefor I want to change them before I pay the cash to get said alignment. Its more of a do it now or way later.

I checked to see if there was any slop and the driver side has some. Any chance it could just be the worn end link?

Thanks for the quick responses people.

-pinky

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Where is the slop? Endlink shouldn't really cause any play.

IF you grab the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock versus 9 and 3 oclock, which one has play?

Can you ask a friend to lay under the wheel and watch to see where the movement is? Or they wiggle and you watch.

And just for reference, how many miles on these ball joints?

Any half decent shop should check for play before aligning the car too.

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I just replaced my control arms the other day. End links also, as I was clunking hard on the passenger side.

No play on my passenger side at any position.

Drivers side had major play in the joint, didn't matter where I grabbed the wheel at, it was that bad. Once I took the wheel off to inspect some more, I could grab the caliper and you could still feel the play. My ball joint was toast, enough where there wasn't even any grease left in it, just the rusty ball flopping around in the joint. I initially thought my tires were out of balance or tie rods, but after the balance but the shake was still there.

It was relatively easy. I found it semi-difficult to get the socket into the knuckle, but they went in with the help of a jack.

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Where is the slop? Endlink shouldn't really cause any play.

IF you grab the wheel at 12 and 6 oclock versus 9 and 3 oclock, which one has play?

Can you ask a friend to lay under the wheel and watch to see where the movement is? Or they wiggle and you watch.

And just for reference, how many miles on these ball joints?

Any half decent shop should check for play before aligning the car too.

More play at 9 and 3 oclock, very little at 12 and 6 oclock.

When I do put my hands at 9 and 3 and move the wheel back and forth I can feel the drive shaft slide in and out slightly. And no I am not pushing and pulling I am swiveling the wheel. I got under the car and I can see some wear on the driver side ball joint more so now when I move the wheel. I might as well just replace them as I have no idea when they were last replaced. I am at college in a small town and don't trust anyone, especial with an imported car. I am surrounded by ford trucks all day, and it makes me cry sometimes. I am forced to drive a brand new F-150 for work and wow, what a piece of stuff. It amazes me that people actually give money to drive them.

Thanks for your help guys and gals.

-pinky

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Just thought I would say I cracked the oil pan someone checking on the ball joints. Oh joy. there is not a cheap fix for this is there?

Just thought I would say I cracked the oil pan someone checking on the ball joints. Oh joy. there is not a cheap fix for this is there?

someone = some how *

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Another question for you guys. It seems the control arms (A-arms) I have do not have the 3 bolts that the ball joint connects too. The ball joint is directly connected to the A-arm so..... buy new A-arms?

Why would volvo do this?

Hope I don't sound to stupid asking that, but I have never seen it built this way. Seems pretty stupid as an A-arm will not wear out, just break. Same with end links. ??????

Well after 5 hours of being under my car poking, learning, and enjoying working with cars I have successfully stopped my rear breaks from squeaking, figured out exactly what suspension parts I need to order and last but not least cracked my oil pan in two places!

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Another question for you guys. It seems the control arms (A-arms) I have do not have the 3 bolts that the ball joint connects too. The ball joint is directly connected to the A-arm so..... buy new A-arms?

Why would volvo do this?

Hope I don't sound to stupid asking that, but I have never seen it built this way. Seems pretty stupid as an A-arm will not wear out, just break. Same with end links. ??????

Well after 5 hours of being under my car poking, learning, and enjoying working with cars I have successfully stopped my rear breaks from squeaking, figured out exactly what suspension parts I need to order and last but not least cracked my oil pan in two places!

It's probably cheaper for Volvo to get control arms with integrated ball joints to be manufactured. In retrospect by the time your ball joints need to be replaced, the bushings within the control arm are probably shot. Quick and easy replacement I suppose.

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