Dan2286 Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 How did you manage to crack your oil pan? I would think the cheapest thing to do is to get one from a junk yard. Make sure you get that special Volvo sealant stuff, these pans do not use a regular gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussB Posted May 3, 2009 Report Share Posted May 3, 2009 Just thought I would say I cracked the oil pan someone checking on the ball joints. Oh joy. there is not a cheap fix for this is there?someone = some how *you had the jack on the oil pan?good grief Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
95 854 t-5 Posted May 4, 2009 Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 93-94 had ball joints separate from control arms, 94.5 and up I believe had ball joints integrated with control arms i know mine are integrated. Anyone have a link to a control arm replacement write up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlvinL Posted May 4, 2009 Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 It's probably cheaper for Volvo to get control arms with integrated ball joints to be manufactured. In retrospect by the time your ball joints need to be replaced, the bushings within the control arm are probably shot. Quick and easy replacement I suppose.Absolutely. Also, easier for us than trying to find the tools to replace the bushings when most of us don't have these tools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RussB Posted May 4, 2009 Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 can we get pics of the oil pan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinky Posted May 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2009 can we get pics of the oil pan?I will post before and after pics when I TIG it. Seems to be two hairline splits. I put a pan under the car and it leaked 1/10 quart overnight. I have driven the car a few times when I had to drive somewhere. I will be driving the car 137 miles home to where my friends TIG welder is. My idea is to drain the oil, clean bottom of pan with carb cleaner and weld. Ah, nothing like doing an overhead weld under a car that is on jack stands to cast aluminum. When I jack the car up I use the front sub-frame cross member and then place jack stands accordingly. For some reason when lowering I decided to use the front rear sub frame member. Between 850's being somewhat low and my jack being large it lowered the car onto the jack wedging it in there. I did not think anything of it at the time as I could lift the car high enough with one hand to pull the jack out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 93-94 had ball joints separate from control arms, 94.5 and up I believe had ball joints integrated with control arms i know mine are integrated. Anyone have a link to a control arm replacement write up?No need for a write up, although I'm sure there's one around if you search.Just have a variety of (12 to 19mm IIRC) metric wrenches, sockets, PB, a pickle fork and hammer and you'll be good to go. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z31jaime Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 i replaced mine recently and BOY it mad a big difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 More play at 9 and 3 oclock, very little at 12 and 6 oclock.When I do put my hands at 9 and 3 and move the wheel back and forth I can feel the drive shaft slide in and out slightly. And no I am not pushing and pulling I am swiveling the wheel. I got under the car and I can see some wear on the driver side ball joint more so now when I move the wheel. I might as well just replace them as I have no idea when they were last replaced. I am at college in a small town and don't trust anyone, especial with an imported car. I am surrounded by ford trucks all day, and it makes me cry sometimes. I am forced to drive a brand new F-150 for work and wow, what a piece of stuff. It amazes me that people actually give money to drive them. Thanks for your help guys and gals. -pinky9-3 play can be caused by tie-rod. If you should replacethe arms, I would replaced any other parts that has any hint of play. And use oem Volvo for the arms, the aftermarket ones don't last long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinky Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 9-3 play can be caused by tie-rod. If you should replacethe arms, I would replaced any other parts that has any hint of play. And use oem Volvo for the arms, the aftermarket ones don't last long.Thank you for the info. Would you say the oem ones last 2-3 times longer because that is how much more they cost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 Thank you for the info. Would you say the oem ones last 2-3 times longer because that is how much more they cost.Definitely. Failure on aftermarkets can be as low as as 20k or less. Oem can last up to 100k.From Chilled Man sig, try these guys (DW Volvo), they apparently offer very competitive price on oem parts: Need OEM Volvo Parts ? (800) 689-0021Ask for Jamie or Don Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedn_j Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 do yourself a favor and put control arms from a 93 on. 850's have shitty suspension components oem or not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinky Posted May 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 do yourself a favor and put control arms from a 93 on. 850's have shitty suspension components oem or not.Proof, reason? Direct fit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedn_j Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 Proof, reason? Direct fit?out of everything that you'll replace ..it'll be the ball joints, strut mount and various rubber mounts all over the suspension. going to the 93 control arm (which is a bolt-on job) your allowed to change just the ball joint by itself for only 20 dollars instead of replacing the entire arm. alot of people wall say otherwise but i really dont think they take their cars out of the garage much either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted May 5, 2009 Report Share Posted May 5, 2009 At 91K miles, I would recommend doing the entire front end (strut, seat, strut guide, control arms, tierods, endlinks). I learned the Front Suspension the hard way and I detailed the whole experience here:http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=111383 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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