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Should I Replace My Ball Joints? Pics Inside


pinky

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If you could get replacements for the ball joint boots, the joints would last almost forever. Inevitably the way these things fail is that the rubber cracks on the boot, allowing water along with salt and or sand to displace the grease and destroy the joint.

As a newcomer to the world of Volvo, the fact that when a 2 dollar rubber boot fails, you have to replace a large, heavy steel forging definitely makes my top ten list of annoyances. A 2 dollar boot and some grease every 50k, and about 15 bucks worth of rubber bushings every 100k and you'd be set.

It's possible if the boot is not cracking yet to carefully remove the retaining ring around the shank of the ball joint and squirt some fresh grease in with a needle.

-JH

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Yes and No:

1. Cracked rubber boot allows water to enter ball joint, which can fail as early as 30-40K.

2. Even with normal rubber, the ball joint will eventually fail. In my case, the rubber boot was perfect but after 90K miles, the ball joint becomes loose. So the ball joint does NOT last forever.

Remember the ball joint operates under ALOT of force: the weight of the car, the cornering, the braking, all those activities create alot of stress for the ball joint.

the bottom line is:

- cracked rubber boot: early ball joint failure.

- normal rubber boot, ball joint still fails, but later.

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do yourself a favor and put control arms from a 93 on. 850's have shitty suspension components oem or not.

did you know that a 93's struts are unique to that year, due to the slightly different geometry?

OEM control arm assemblies last 80k+. How about the bushings?? Please elaborate on why swapping to a '93 control arm is a good idea?

correct answer, it's NOT a good idea.

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Just for the record - my '98 V70 AWD still has the original control arms from the factory on it. 160,000 miles on the car and I'm finally replacing them this summer when I get home along with the tie rods (the inners were replaced at 55K, the outers at 110K).

I think that's a pretty good endorsement for the Genuine parts.

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I'll do you one better- on my S70 I have original ball joints (control arms) and inner and outer tie rods at 173K miles...no problems yet. I check them often now- I'm pretty sure I'll be replacing all of these this summer as when one goes so will another, so why not just do them all at the same time and not hassle with it again for awhile.

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As soon as the boot rips you should replace them. If there is no play I would say within 4-8 months there will be a noticeable tear.

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(the inners were replaced at 55K, the outers at 110K).

I think it should be the other way around: Outer Tierods are worn first because of the R and L turning.

Inner Tiedrods are worn because of the UP and DOWN movement of the wheels.

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I think it should be the other way around: Outer Tierods are worn first because of the R and L turning.

Inner Tiedrods are worn because of the UP and DOWN movement of the wheels.

LOL well I can only tell you when the inner and outer tie-rods were replaced on my car since I've had it since it was brand new. The inners were replaced at 55K b/c the P/S rack leaked and it got a new Volvo rack and pinion which comes with inner tie-rods...they probably hadn't gone bad yet.

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Cleaned it all off and attempted to TIG weld, but since there was still oil residue dripping through the cracks it was impossible. I ended up making one of the cracks worse. I applied JB weld and it is holding for now. I will be going to the junk yard every chance I get and will obtain and oil pan soon. I have ordered two new control arms from DW and an aluminum skid plate and front strut brace from ipd. Might get front and rear sway bars at some point.

pics.

IMG_0421-1.jpg

IMG_0423-1.jpg

IMG_0424-1.jpg

IMG_0431.jpg

In the last picture you can see the JB weld did not hold on one of the holes. That is the hole that I tried to weld and made worse. I was forced to apply a second coat and wait another 24 hours. Have about 300 miles since the JB weld.

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did you know that a 93's struts are unique to that year, due to the slightly different geometry?

OEM control arm assemblies last 80k+. How about the bushings?? Please elaborate on why swapping to a '93 control arm is a good idea?

correct answer, it's NOT a good idea.

because it'll cost 20 dollars to change a balljoint instead of the $100+ ..

paying crazy amounts of money to fix somethign over and over againn got old. at least now when i do change the bad balljoint it wont hurt my wallet as much. i didnt notice any change when i had the 93 arm next to the 95. they were identical in every aspect. (believe me i checked) aside from being alloy instead of steel. i've had the swap on my car for about 2 years how with zero issues.

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