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Alternator Choices For High Output Subwoofer And Amplifier


AverageVolvo

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return the cap, and go buy a http://www.kinetikaudio.com/hc600.asp and your problems are solved.

i do not have a cap installed in my car. you can click on the link in my sig to see what i have done with my "system"

I can get those cheap, but he does not need that for 500watts. And why is your amp pulling 60 amps at 80 volume. Whats your gain? Have you clamped the positive to check amps or are you making up numbers?

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I can get those cheap, but he does not need that for 500watts. And why is your amp pulling 60 amps at 80 volume. Whats your gain? Have you clamped the positive to check amps or are you making up numbers?

How cheap is cheap Chuck? I'd like to replace my battery this summer.

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Thats a damn fine audio system you have, thanks for the advice, I will consider that once I upgrade the stereo again.

What brand and how big is the cap you are currently running?

All you should need is a ~1 farad cap for 500 watts RMS, IMO.

I installed 2 Rockford P2D210s (500 watts max each) wired to 2 ohms @ the amp in a sealed enclosure, TMA 500/1 mono amp, Tsunami digital fuse block, Tsunami 1.2 farad digital cap and complete trunk dynamat into my gf's car and after working out a few bugs all is extremely well.

I know what you mean about Rockfords being loud.....extremely good subs.

We were recently having a problem with the amp going into protect mode after ~30 min. of heavy use and coming back on ~10 min. later and the issue was a loose ground.

Anyways, all that is in with 4 AWG wire and she has a stock battery.......dimming was REALLY bad before the cap install but there is virtually none now.

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Amp Alpine Class D mono 500rms @ 2ohm

Sub, Fosgate P3 Dual 4 ohm wired to 2 ohm, in a slot ported box 1in thick box. with 1.8cu and tuned to 38hz(manf spec)

Optima Red top

I am running a Rockford fosgate 1 farad cap. With fosgate 4 gauge wire all the way up to the cap, and a 6in 8 gauge from cap to amp as 8 gauge is the Max gauge input on amp. I have a 4 gauge ground that is 13in long to chassis and another 6in 8 gauge ground from cap to amp(again max amp ground size)

Car is dynamatted from ceiling to floor and every door, as of today. Much better : )

When the amp was pulling 60 amps it was at high idle, with gain set high, sorry forgot to mention that : )

And yes , I have a clamp meter, Does amps as well as Ac functions. It was like 100$ at sears on sale.

Luckily Alpine Amps run smoothly and cool. After listening to a Bass Mix for an hour at very loud levels my amp was every so slightly above room temperature,

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Thanks again for every ones support and help.

Adding the Cap and thicker ground cables

I also cleaned some oil off of the alternator wiring, and sand papered the ground connections, and made all wires as short as possible, after this I can pound away all day at idle, with no dimming, I had headlights , ac and defroster and interior lights on and only when I moved the power seat did it dim slightly but nothing seemed to slow down.

Seems like its the little things that count.

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Amp Alpine Class D mono 500rms @ 2ohm

Sub, Fosgate P3 Dual 4 ohm wired to 2 ohm, in a slot ported box 1in thick box. with 1.8cu and tuned to 38hz(manf spec)

Optima Red top

I am running a Rockford fosgate 1 farad cap. With fosgate 4 gauge wire all the way up to the cap, and a 6in 8 gauge from cap to amp as 8 gauge is the Max gauge input on amp. I have a 4 gauge ground that is 13in long to chassis and another 6in 8 gauge ground from cap to amp(again max amp ground size)

Car is dynamatted from ceiling to floor and every door, as of today. Much better : )

When the amp was pulling 60 amps it was at high idle, with gain set high, sorry forgot to mention that : )

And yes , I have a clamp meter, Does amps as well as Ac functions. It was like 100$ at sears on sale.

Luckily Alpine Amps run smoothly and cool. After listening to a Bass Mix for an hour at very loud levels my amp was every so slightly above room temperature,

Thats fucked up. All my 500 watt amps are 40 and 50 amp fuses. Hell even my 1000s are only 80 amp fuses.

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change out the optima red to yellow. my red failed in less than a year powering 700 watts of amps.. called for warranty at optima, they said it's not meant for something like that. would use the deep cycle yellow for that power. anyway, got it replaced at autozone.

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the red tops fail ALOT....i've replaced 2 in 3 years....only kept going with it because they give me new ones under warranty...i want a yellow top though.

Maybe its the fact you don't drive that often or short trips,

I drive my car at least 4 times a week at least 30 miles allowing alternator to keep charge up. OR I am am going to get screwed one day when my battery dies early , and I am out 200$ to buy another one.

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Maybe its the fact you don't drive that often or short trips,

I drive my car at least 4 times a week at least 30 miles allowing alternator to keep charge up. OR I am am going to get screwed one day when my battery dies early , and I am out 200$ to buy another one.

Im going with the fact red tops are starter batteries not deep cycle. see for yourself in about a year

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Maybe its the fact you don't drive that often or short trips,

I drive my car at least 4 times a week at least 30 miles allowing alternator to keep charge up. OR I am am going to get screwed one day when my battery dies early , and I am out 200$ to buy another one.

I used to drive my car daily....20 miles or so, and usually a couple hundred miles every weekend....it's the battery.

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