Buying A Second Volvo - S40 Or S70?

[tina]

I would not buy a salvaged titled car unless your a mechanic and can get it dirt cheap....even then I think I would pass for a reliable family car. The 40 series are as stated quite reliable. The FPR actually tripled in price though and they do have some catalyst issues occasionally along with other things said. They really are decent little cars 2004 and 1/2 you have to watch as now your getting into the new style. As long as the car has a 1.9 motor you will be fine. However comparing to the 80's RWD cars (red block) in reliability and cost of up keep ...those days are gone as NO ONE builds cars like that any longer?

The 240 was a car you could sink to the bottom of the bay, pull it out a year later, let it dry and it would start!!!

Yup we had an '81 240 it was a solid car - but NO luxury at all, it was like a metal shell with some seats in it, not even a cassette deck It was plagued with electrical problems though and rusted underneath.

[ozzimark]

All this and the topic title hasn't really been discussed at all. I suppose you're more partial to the S40s? Considering the S70 for it's size, or something else?

[Tatnic]

lol, I think the X40s are the ugliest of the volvos

AC is not a common issue with S40s.

And it's DEFINATELY not a 2 day job. Take less than 5 hours.

if you want an acura/toyoto go for it, just dont get into an accident with a volvo

I suspect you're all hat and no cattle. Which model would you suggest Tina avoid?

[tina]

I am still looking at S70's as well, just wondering if I should expand my search to include S40's which I had previously not considered. I agree that the S40's are not as attractive as other models, but parking would be even easier. It appears that they are not any better on gas than S70s though because our S70 with 170k miles still gets 22mpg city 28-30 highway and the EPA says that the S40 gets about 21/30. However our S70 is stick so that helps. We want an auto this time, driving in san francisco with stick is a pain in the butt.

So, I have a list of S70s and S40s to call about. Thanks for the input on the S40!

[tina]

Hmm, what are thoughts on the 2002 S60? I see one for $5500 with only 60k miles, seems a bit too good to be true.

[Dan A]

Hmm, what are thoughts on the 2002 S60? I see one for $5500 with only 60k miles, seems a bit too good to be true.

I see prices dropping big time on used Volvos, but that seems pretty low.

I suspect you're all hat and no cattle.

Nooob.

[PsychoWagon]

I suspect you're all hat and no cattle. Which model would you suggest Tina avoid?

Whatever that means...

I would avoid 03-04 XC90s with the T6 engine. I would recommend a 99-2003 2.9L S80 (non turbo) with over 90k that drives nice and shifts fine. If you change the trans filter every 10k-15k you'll never have an issue (non turbo models don't have their trannys blow as often due to lack of torque lol)... and that being said, all the electrical problems in the 99 are definately fixed by now

Any of the P2 cars you'll be looking at will cost you for repairs as their suspension is a bit more "floatier" than the S70, it creates a lot more wear on suspension components. Do not get an AWD if you are on a budget. Even the resealing of the angle gear will cost you over $500. As stated, if you were fine with your S70 (You said you had one or no?), the S70 is less to maintain than an S60, and the S40 is less than the S70. S40s are the most reliable volvo to date, unless you can afford a 2007 XC90 3.2L or V8. Those engines have been nearly indestructable (minus a couple valve cover leaks and trans seal leaks). Other than wheel bearings and outer tie rods you should be ok with an XC90. (not the T6).

850s are a hit and miss, all depends on how the previous owner maintained it, same with S70s.

Only thing to get worried about with the older body style S40 is brake pulsations. If you get brake pulsations, you'll be looking at new rotors, pads, and new front bearings. But it shouldn't happen as it only happens to a handful of S40s. Suspension wise I've never replaced an inner tie rod or an outer, i've replaced 1 balljoint in 5 1/2 years with volvo. (doesn't inclue accident cars)

Newer style S40s are just as good suspension wise, but they do get their wheel bearing problems, allignment problems and electrical problems (ignition switches, harnesses, etc..) But are still a reliable, cost friendly vehicle.

S40s/V40s/S40 2004.5+/V50s don't go through brakes either, whereas depending on your braking style you'll be going through brakes every 30k with a P2. I personally like the P2 models better (S60,S80,V70,XC90) because I find them more attractive and comfortable, but it will cost you. Saying that, if you get that S60 certified and etested, bring it to the dealer right away and get it checked for a safety. If they find anything that makes it fail the safety, you can go back to the shop that performed it and get them to perform the other repairs.

Having said that, if you save $60-80 / month you'll have plenty of money to repair the vehicle when or if it breaks.

[Dan A]

Whatever that means...

He thinks you don't know what you are talking about :lol:

[tina]

Yes we currently have a 98 S70, looking to add a second car, husband and I have been sharing one car for years but he's starting a new job further away....

Thanks for the extensive info on the later models. I think we will limit our search to S70 and S40 because those are probably the best buys in our price range and plus I already know how to replace things on the S70, even the ignition (the key spun around in the lock a few years ago I replaced the thing myself - drilling through metal to remove the old part was not fun though!)

-Tina

[tina]

Another question: you recommend 2001+ S40's what is wrong with the 2000 model?

[PsychoWagon]

He thinks you don't know what you are talking about

obviously I don't

I've only been at a dealer workin on them for 5 years.

but anyways, 2000 models have problems with racks and transmissions (mainly valve bodies). and that's one expense you want to stay away from.

S40/V40 is a good pick 01-04.5 there will be repair costs bust less than a p2.

Oh and I hope tatnic doesn't ask for any technical help lol :D

[tina]

Ah so that is why the 2000 models are priced quite a bit lower than the 2001's. No I do not want to deal with transmission or valve problems - Thanks!

[Guest tina]

Going to see a 2001 S40 tonight, only 51k miles, 1 owner all dealer-maintained. ANything I should check out for sure other than test drive for smoothness, brakes, A/C cold etc?

[PsychoWagon]

A/C cold, no brake vibrations (go 120km/h and hit the brakes good), parking brake works, go over big bumps and listen for creaks or banks from the rear end. Make sure it shifts fine, swing the car side to side in the parking lot and listen for clunks.

Other than that just your basic check over

[theForgottenone]

I hope i'm not too late on providing input.

Like Psycho has mention, the 01-04.5 S40 is very reliable and maintenance free if you are DIY.

Most common problem has been listed, FPR, coil packs, transmission flare (harsh up shift 2-3). Those transmission flare seems to be on earlier models. Previous owners should have taken into the dealer for update TCM sofware flash to remedy those problem. Otherwise, a good transmission flush shoudl cure majority of it.

The 2000 model have inferior front suspension design. They have 4 speed auto transmission while 01 and later have 5spd. 03-04 have a minor facelift with minor body details (color matching molding, new wheel, black headlight, 3 spoke steering wheel, egg-crate grille..etc)

Make sure the car you intend to buy have maintenance records or in good service condition.

I haven't had to replace anything on my car yet other than spark plugs, oil and a transmission flush (recommended 40-50k invertal). I have 72K miles and the original owner.