Matty Moo Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 I put new control arms on my white 850 about 750 miles before I wrecked it. My new (to me) Platinum Wagon just happens to need new control arms. One side was replaced recently, but the bushings are shot on the other one. So, is it possible to get my "new" control arms off my wrecked 850, without tearing the rubber ball joint boots? I did put anti-seize on them before installing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 So, is it possible to get my "new" control arms off my wrecked 850, without tearing the rubber ball joint boots? I did put anti-seize on them before installing them. Yes. It shouldn't be a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Moo Posted May 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Yes. It shouldn't be a problem. Is it the fact that they were just put in and lubed that they'll pop right out since they aren't crusty and corroded? So, I should be able to remove the bolt, put some leverage on it (without the pickle fork) and pop it out? I don't care about screwing anything else up, it's already destroyed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Actually the trick is: 1. Remove the pinch bolt holding the balljoint to the steering knuckle. 2. Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry the steering knuckle side to spread it. 3. Then tap the control arm's outer part with a hammer to undo the balljoint, taking care of course not to damage the rubber boot. 4. Then make sure you preload the control arm before tightening the 2 bolts at the subframe side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted May 20, 2009 Report Share Posted May 20, 2009 Actually the trick is: 1. Remove the pinch bolt holding the balljoint to the steering knuckle. 2. Using a flat blade screwdriver, pry the steering knuckle side to spread it. 3. Then tap the control arm's outer part with a hammer to undo the balljoint, taking care of course not to damage the rubber boot. 4. Then make sure you preload the control arm before tightening the 2 bolts at the subframe side. That does work pretty well. What I did was loosen all 3 (or for some years, 5) bolts, two or four on the subframe, one on the knuckle. The control arm should slide downward pretty easily after that. Also, a note about preload. Make sure this preload is the weight of the car; lower it onto the ground before tightening the bolts all the way. Since the rubber bushings are vulcanized onto the control arm, they will wear out very quickly if they're tightened down, and then rotated through the motion of the control arm to the neutral resting point when the car is on the ground ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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