Guest Edward Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Hi all, Here's the issue: 2000 V70XC 2.4L AWD Got code P1332, says "camshaft reset valve (aka camshaft position solenoid). Symptoms are rough idle when starting engine cold and noticeable irregular pulsations/vibrations felt on steering wheel and car, especially at idle, but the pulsating is felt through the RPMs. Rough idle goes away when engine is warm. Also, perhaps some mild performance loss, but car is very drivable. Timing belt was done (correctly), timing is good. Cam position sensor is good. We use good oil and do regular changes. I pulled the power plug on the camshaft position solenoid and the car ran the same way with no difference. So I'm now trying to replace the unit, lucky for me Volvo decided to change the unit design sometime ago. I have the new unit and I'm ready to hook it up, but I'm having trouble with the wiring. I know which is the positive and negative coming from the car, but I don't know which of the wires coming from the new unit is the pos/neg. The old style was just a plug-in housing which made everything simple. Now I need to crimp the wires together, but this confusion over which is which is the only thing stopping me from replacing the unit. I really don't wanna screw up and fry this $120 part... Anyone have any experience doing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks! Edward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 Edward, What do you mean "Volvo decided to change the unit design"? I had never seen this in my days at the dealership. Could you post a pic of the new valve? What P/N did they sell you? Should be a real easy (10 minute) swap. I have never seen an OEM Volvo part that requires wiring modification. Pics would be great!! Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolvoEd Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 That's what I thought too... but I asked the parts guy and a dealer mechanic and they told me the same thing. It is definitely the only part they sell for my car. Here is my current original unit: And this is the new one that I got: It seems like an easy job, even if I have to splice the wires, but they just don't make it very clear as to what is the +/- wire coming from the unit. On the new housing there is a "1" and a "2" next to the pinholes, I can only guess that 1 is the power, and 2 is the negative. Thanks for the reply! Edward Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJones16 Posted May 30, 2009 Report Share Posted May 30, 2009 The new unit is rebuildable also, In VADIS it shows you how to rebuild it. The symptoms you have are what Im getting now but with no code Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db130 Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 what is the part number on the "new" cvvt solenoid that they gave you? i bought a new cvvt solenoid last july using part number 1275579 which apparently has been superceded by part number 36002695. it looked exactly like my old cvvt solenoid and plugged right into the existing wiring harness plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolvoEd Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 I'm going to be really pissed off if they didn't give me the right part for the car. They all said "it works for your car, this is all we got, just splice it". Especially with their no-return policy on this stuff... The part number of this new piece (according to the order sheet) is "36002695-9 SOLENOID". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emiel Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 I ordered the VVT solenoid for my sisters car last week ('02 V70 N/A). Got the same solenoid as pictured above, only without the wires.. Guess they changed the product, the 'old' one was still available a few months back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolvoEd Posted May 31, 2009 Report Share Posted May 31, 2009 Damn... prior to getting the part I looked online. Only one place I found had it (FCPGroton) but it wasn't in stock and it too was the new version. But I figured it's still the same sort of part and that they wouldn't make it any complicated. Wrong... Since I want to get my $20 core charge back, I'm thinking of just doing this soon. Again, I'm starting to really think that the "1" marked wire is the power line, while "2" is the ground. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 You should be able to look at the connectors and see positions marked 1 and 2. Just clip the wire for terminal 1 and connect it to terminal 1 on the new connector. Do the same for the second wire. Volvo got a new manufacture for the solonoid hence the change in connectors. Those are heat shrink butt connectors so once you have the wires installed correctly heat shrink them in place and you should have no problems ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolvoEd Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Funny thing, as I went out to do it today, just then I saw the 1 and 2 marked on the old housing. So I got it all hooked up just fine, I think. I had some trouble getting the new wires connected well into the new housing, so I'm not sure if there is a good connection there. If not, I'll just take out the housing, attach the wires directly to the solenoid pins and fill it up with silicon... should do the trick. I reset the computer (battery disconnect) and now time will tell if this is another little problem I can put behind me... Thanks for all the responses! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PsychoWagon Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 That is a updated solenoid which is completely normal (as stated earlier, superceded). The gasket is also updated so it now has a screened filter. Most common reason for failure of that reset valve is carbon buildup in the oil. (lack of oil changes) Flush your system out, take your oil pan out and have it cleaned. Replace your PCV. And keep flushing every 1000 miles about 5 times. Then hopefully you won't have to replace your VVT unit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Flush your system out, take your oil pan out and have it cleaned. Replace your PCV. And keep flushing every 1000 miles about 5 times. Then hopefully you won't have to replace your VVT unit. It would be cheaper to replace the CVVT hub than to do all the items you just listed. If there is no sludge buildup in the engine why would you remove the pan? I think this is jumping the gun just a little bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VolvoEd Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Yeh, this car has had a weird oil change history. For nearly the first 8 years it's been constantly switched around with dino oil... then synthetic... then synthetic blend... back to dino... then synthetic blend. That was when my dad had it, a busy guy, he didn't do it himself and got whatever was available at Jiffy Lube or the repair shop. Now that I'm in charge... I use good quality full synthetic oil and do changes every 4000 miles or so. I have done a couple in quick succession, about 2000 miles apart. The oil was still dirty though, so I guess it's doing its thing by helping to clean out any deposits. The car does go mostly on the freeway though, so overall carbon/sludge deposits are very minimal. Thanks for the advice though, it's appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest James Posted November 15, 2010 Report Share Posted November 15, 2010 The new unit is rebuildable also, In VADIS it shows you how to rebuild it. The symptoms you have are what Im getting now but with no code Chris Hi Chris..I have Vadis and can not locate the rebuild for the valve...any help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Master Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 How can we flush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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