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Hair Dryer Noise In S70 On Start Up


Olive850

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All 98's have an air pump. The pump is SUPPOSED to run and it sounds like a hair dryer. Sounds perfectly normal to me unless it never shuts off or something. To the OP, unless you actually get the CEL codes pulled, then don't replace anything.

To Merch, replace it yourself. Remove the battery tray and the pump is directly underneath. Easy.

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All 98's have an air pump. The pump is SUPPOSED to run and it sounds like a hair dryer. Sounds perfectly normal to me unless it never shuts off or something. To the OP, unless you actually get the CEL codes pulled, then don't replace anything.

To Merch, replace it yourself. Remove the battery tray and the pump is directly underneath. Easy.

How about if it comes on like after thrty minutes after I arrive to a destination or comes on randomly at a light??

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1. Usually the Air Valve fails causing water to build up in the Air Pump, killing the Air Pump.

Personally I'd replace BOTH: Air Valve + Air Pump.

- Use only OEM or Pierburg (OEM supplier).

- Replace the rubber elbow (between Air Valve and Purple vacuum line) while there.

- Use Oetiker clamps (IIRC approx. 7-8 mm in size). Search ebay, you will find seller.

2. Air Pump Info:

a- Volvo OEM Air pump is $330.

b- 1998 bmw 528i Air pump is $220 but needs minor modifications to work.

c- Fix the Air Pump yourself:

DIY Instructions:

I- To remove Air Pump:

Volvospeed.com has info. Basically:

* 10-mm wrench for battery terminals

* 12-mm socket for battery tray

* 12-mm socket for Bracket holding the Air Pump

(these 2 bolts holding the Bracket are LONGER than the battery tray bolts. During re-installation, do NOT get confused with battery tray bolts, which I did!!!).

II. To dismantle Air Pump for rebuild, follow the instructions by myself

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=332148&highlight=pierburg+rebuild

Personally, I would buy a BMW Air Pump for $220 (The Volvo

Air Pump is $340) and modify a bit to fit Volvo (just rotate the BMW Air Pump Cap, and re-work the electrical connections).

Enjoy the fix.

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How about if it comes on like after thrty minutes after I arrive to a destination or comes on randomly at a light??

That too is normal.  You'll probably hear it come on, say, when you exit a freeway and come to a stop light.  It is not only on cold starts, but other situations too.  Don't know exactly what all the triggers are, but what you mention is normal operation.

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Yes, sounds like the SAS. Mine acts up from time to time usually after coming off the freeway and then coming to a stop. CEL comes on code P401. In any case I've changed the valve and have the solenoid that is attached to the pump ready to be installed. If that doesnt work time for a new pump. Anyhow it only happens once or twice a month so I'm not in a hurry to fix it as I just clear the code with my scanner. The dash removal/repair I'm doing soon is my big concern.

Vance

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Guest tailgunn

I think I might have something similiar going on. Got the CEL checked at Autozone and it's giving codes p0410 for an air injection system fault and p0505 for idle air controller circut condition.

Are these related to the air pump & valve and are the two related to each other? I also get the hairdryer sound but I just though it was the turbo. BTW Chilton's says that just because the air pump is noisy that doesn't mean it's bad.

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Guest Merch

All 98's have an air pump. The pump is SUPPOSED to run and it sounds like a hair dryer. Sounds perfectly normal to me unless it never shuts off or something. To the OP, unless you actually get the CEL codes pulled, then don't replace anything.

To Merch, replace it yourself. Remove the battery tray and the pump is directly underneath. Easy.

Thanks...I'll get at it Sat morning with a pot of coffee in the garage.

Merch

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BTW, I did just replace the o2 sensors and the abs module so I was in there messing around with the intake/hoses/ and what not. It wasn't putting these codes out before that.

If the pump runs, don't replace it. It's only function is to pump air when the ECU tells it to turn on, and the fact that it is running is a good sign. It could still be bad if it is not pumping air like it should, but I would check everything else first. I would start with checking and probably replacing the rubber elbow connections on the hard vacuum lines going to the SAS valve and vacuum solenoid. The solenoid is near the radiator.

Not sure on the IAC issue, but it is a common replacement part and not related to the SAS. Could be just coincidence that you are getting both codes at the same time.

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Is the SAS valve the valve that is attached to the exhaust manifold and has a big tube the goes up towards the rad and down somewhere?

http://www.ipdusa.com/version.asp?strPageHistory=search&numSearchStartRecord=1&P_ID=3092&CAT_ID=155&V_ID=7103

Yes, that larger tube runs to the air pump.  The small line is the vacuum line that goes to the solenoid.

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