jschaefer7406 Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 Hello, I have spoken to some of you already about the impending 15G and R manifold install on my S70 AWD. I am still riding the fence as to whether or not to rebuild the turbo first though. Donor car supposedly had 100-110k miles. Shaft is tight, spins fine. Being my DD though, I'd hate to do the complete install and find it blowing oil or something stupid though. Thought? Any risks to rebuilding, or is it as simple as the write-ups say? Thanks for the advice, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ipd Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 You can rebuild it yourself, the process is pretty easy really (plenty of vids on youtube). The issue comes in at balancing. You'll need to find someone with the right equipment to do it. Some guys (myself included) have rebuilt turbos without rebalancing them but in the long run you'll usually find they don't last as long as when they are properly balanced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonutsDemise Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 There is a guy in Virginia that I used to balance mine. I met him at his shop and he was a really nice guy with a lot of experience. If you want to rebuild it it'll run you about $100 for a kit and $100 for a balance. He typically just gets turbos sent to him, rebuilds them, and sends them back. That would be around $350. If I were you I would do that as I found out when I rebuilt mine and took it to him for the balance, there is more to it than cleaning it out and putting it back together. He will professionally do it and warranty his work. His site is http://www.timsturbos.com/ Honestly, from your description of how it looks and feels I would just install it and have it rebuilt later if need be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sonoluminescence Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 There is a guy in Virginia that I used to balance mine. I met him at his shop and he was a really nice guy with a lot of experience. If you want to rebuild it it'll run you about $100 for a kit and $100 for a balance. He typically just gets turbos sent to him, rebuilds them, and sends them back. That would be around $350. If I were you I would do that as I found out when I rebuilt mine and took it to him for the balance, there is more to it than cleaning it out and putting it back together. He will professionally do it and warranty his work. His site is http://www.timsturbos.com/ Honestly, from your description of how it looks and feels I would just install it and have it rebuilt later if need be. Does anyone of you have any 16T/18T/19T rebalancing diagramms to show? I just have one "Schenk" turbo balancing machine here and want to compare my results. best regards, Gerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted June 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 Hello again, Thanks for the replies. If everything is properly marked, is a rebalance really necessary? Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 Does anyone of you have any 16T/18T/19T rebalancing diagramms to show? I just have one "Schenk" turbo balancing machine here and want to compare my results. best regards, Gerry There is not a diagram, they are balanced according to weight distribution. If you look hard enough you can have your CHRA sent out and rebalanced for $30-40. Hello again, Thanks for the replies. If everything is properly marked, is a rebalance really necessary? Joe No!! And I am betting if you rebuild it right, by the time the turbo goes out you wont own your car anymore ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted June 10, 2009 Report Share Posted June 10, 2009 Hello again, Thanks for the replies. If everything is properly marked, is a rebalance really necessary? Joe If you don't have access to the right tools, don't do it. You need very clean work space, and wire wheel/dremel to get into the grooves where the oil cokes - or it's just leak. Not if you're reusing the same impeller/compressor wheel, and you take the time to mark the existing orientation (compressor wheel/nut/shaft) Basic tools.. Most shafts are Lefthand thread - but not all - so be careful when you go to loosen the nut - or you'll snap the impeller shaft in two. Important areas to lean Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 If you don't have access to the right tools, don't do it. You need very clean work space, and wire wheel/dremel to get into the grooves where the oil cokes - or it's just leak. If anything I would use a soft BRASS wheel, since the clearances are suppose to be very tight at the end of the turbine wheel/piston ring groove. IMO opinion its much easier to use a good solvent that will attack the carbon deposits. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Hello everyone, Thanks for the good tips (and great pics). I was planning to use the soak-in-can carb cleaner to clean all parts. Any success with this? I am leaning toward just leaving it alone, as the donor car had less mileage than my 13T now. If I can get a kit relatively cheap though, I figure it's cheap insurance. All further input greatly appreciated. Thanks guys, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 If anything I would use a soft BRASS wheel, since the clearances are suppose to be very tight at the end of the turbine wheel/piston ring groove. IMO opinion its much easier to use a good solvent that will attack the carbon deposits. Whatever floats your boat - dremel wire brushes are not rigid enough to remove material from the shaft. They don't sell the "good" (highly toxic) cleaners around these parts anymore. Wheel works. The shaft should NOT be wheeled, of course! Hello everyone, Thanks for the good tips (and great pics). I was planning to use the soak-in-can carb cleaner to clean all parts. Any success with this? I am leaning toward just leaving it alone, as the donor car had less mileage than my 13T now. If I can get a kit relatively cheap though, I figure it's cheap insurance. All further input greatly appreciated. Thanks guys, Joe Carb clean will not remove oil coking. @ 100K, I'd leave it alone, unless there is evidence of oil coking on the heat shield on the exhaust side of the CHRA, which would indicate a leaking hot side seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v4lve Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Joe, from the shape of the turbo and the rest of the car it came from i personally wouldn't hesitate to run it unless you found something upon closer inspection that would need to be corrected. btw: one bumper left Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Whatever floats your boat - dremel wire brushes are not rigid enough to remove material from the shaft. They don't sell the "good" (highly toxic) cleaners around these parts anymore. Wheel works. The shaft should NOT be wheeled, of course! Carb clean will not remove oil coking. @ 100K, I'd leave it alone, unless there is evidence of oil coking on the heat shield on the exhaust side of the CHRA, which would indicate a leaking hot side seal. Only had a problem once with the piston ring sealing on these TD04's and that was when I used a dremel steel wheel to clean the piston groove . Hence the reason I would try to use a softer wheel. I know they are a nickel alloy but not sure what they are mixed with. Easily could of been a coincidence Carb cleaner is a very fast reactant but to week over a period of time to pull off cooked carbon. Actually there are a few products at your everyday grocery store that work very well over a period of time . The reaction is much slower but also a lot stronger over a extended period of time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z31jaime Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 i would run it as is, its really not that hard to pull back off if it ends up leaking. i would for sure get new washer/crush ring things for the lines and make sure none of them are leaking. i havent pulled mine off yet so im not real sure what needs to be replaced as you pull off, but in my case im just gonna rebuilt it myself beacuse #1 its only $60 for the kit...if for $60 i can rebuild my turbo and it last @ least a year. i think its worth rebuilding yearly @ $60. i personaly find working on my car relaxing so im not worried about work. plus im thinking of porting mine when its off, and possably doing the manifold also. but if mine wasnt leaking i would just run it. i had 140k miles on mine when it started leaking. and my frined rx-7 had and old turbo that didnt leak for 5 years sent it to get rebuilt (wasnt leaking) and after 6 months started leaking, who knows who long it would have gone if he didnt mess with it. the old phrase "if it ain't broke dont fix it." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageVolvo Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Leave it be, If everything looks fine, take a chance, does not take too long to remove, and will probably last longer than your first diy rebuild. I see these turbos all the time with 160k + and 80% are great. The 20% is guys not using synthetic or driving it hard and not letting turbo cool down, Let car warm up before getting into boost and let it cool down. I have seen plenty of 15g's with 200k+ in perfect condition. As above mentioned, new crush washers. Not broke don't fix it ! I concur Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 You need (6) new line seals, drain tube gasket & o-ring no matter what. The thing is, there is no reason to touch the manifold or exhaust housing. Just separate the turbo @ the band clamp. Once you start talking manifold, you might as well get an S60R one, and then you'll need all new manifold studs, gaskets, nuts & turbo/manifold studs & nuts, and possibly exhaust/DP studs & nuts as well. Then it's not a simple one or two hour job anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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