Kit Vexed Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 hey guys, im not asking about the performance gains of a 16t over a 15g here (that's a beaten topic)... what i AM asking is how tough a turbo swap in general is? im putting an R manifold on in the process, and the 16t is straight flange so i figured this is within the 'performance mods' parameters. is it really just an oil line and a water line going into the turbo, and disconnecting the turbo from the manifold and dp?? i've never done a turbo swap as this is my first turbo car (t-5r). before mentioning anything besides the swap itself: the 16t is fully rebuilt and in pristine condition, so i dont need any advice about rebuiding it as a wise idea before install - i know, and i did. i guess what im hoping to hear are tips, pics, snags, things to remove to make the job easier, any possible special tools, parts needed, etc. if there's a write up, please direct me to it and i'll be out of here! thanks you guys - i've saved a ton of money and learned a ton of things from all your questions and answers on this forum, and im looking to keep on savin (mechanic told me around $300 to do it). also, i was thinking of cutting the dp down below the flex area (so i'd still have the upstream o2 sensor) and having a 3" straight pipe bent and welded on to my EST cat-back (so no cat, just straight pipe) and wondered about the lower o2 sensor and if it'd throw a CEL and what to do with it in general? and how much louder is the car without a cat? still pass emissions? thanks again Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hoosier Daddy Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 turbo swap is pretty straight-forward. oil in, oil out, coolant in, coolant out. ratcheting wrenches were a big help for me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty33W Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 also, i was thinking of cutting the dp down below the flex area (so i'd still have the upstream o2 sensor) and having a 3" straight pipe bent and welded on to my EST cat-back (so no cat, just straight pipe) and wondered about the lower o2 sensor and if it'd throw a CEL and what to do with it in general? and how much louder is the car without a cat? still pass emissions? thanks again Paul i have that exact setup , yes you'll get a cel if you dont fool the sensor , may or may not pass emmisions (depends on what state you're in , it'll be pretty damn loud (i like it tho) , check youtube for volvos with straightpipes to get and idea , i just have the sensor tucked up under the car and sheilded from water Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db130 Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 scroll towards the bottom until you see removal of old turbo http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=48611 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 this might help too. LINK It shouldn't be that bad since you're not rebuilding your turbo, but the turbo and manifold bolts/nuts can be hard to get off. do you have a blow torch to help break them free? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PFCSpartan Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 do you have a straight flanged downpipe or is it the stock dp from a 95 t5r? if its stock you are going to have to get a downpipe or swap the exhaust housings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boglin Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Correct me if Im wrong but areyou not going to need a droper flange on yout DP to fir a staright 16T to 15g stu=yle DP? Conical flange???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boglin Posted June 11, 2009 Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 Correct me if Im wrong but areyou not going to need a droper flange on yout DP to fir a staright 16T to 15g stu=yle DP? Conical flange???? Wow im sorry for all the mistakes. Are you not going to need the proper flange on your DP for a straight flage 16T from a conical flange 15g?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Vexed Posted June 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2009 thank you for all the responses guys! yes im switching from a conical 15g, to a straight 16t flange. i DO have the straight dp that goes with this turbo.. i was thinking of getting a crappy used 13t off ebay with the angled flange, then get the angled dp from EST or iPd, but i'd read you lose a bit of torque and spool time with the angled set up? is this true? i'd much rather have the quick spool low-end choked-out torque and power, than the top end open-ness of the larger angled setup. and yes i know either way a 16t spools quickly, but the quicker the better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotboost Posted June 12, 2009 Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 PB Blaster the flange bolts & banjo fittings an hour before attempting to remove them. It'll make it much easier to remove the turbo and reduce the chance of breaking one of the studs off. Also, replace all the crush washers and drain seals every time you remove the turbo. They're cheap, and leaky turbos make the entire backside of your motor nasty real quick. Other than that, just take your time and it'll be a piece of cake. I'd personally install an R manifold at the same time you install the new turbo. My stock manifold had 5 healthy cracks in it when I removed it. I've recently seen many others in the same condition. All depends on how quickly you need to do this swap and how much $$$ you want to spend though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kit Vexed Posted June 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2009 where do i get crush washers and drain seals? dealer stuff? i AM doing the R manifold in the process btw... would WD-40 work just as well as PB? should i get maybe 2-3 studs and mani nuts from the dealer just in case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gotboost Posted June 13, 2009 Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 where do i get crush washers and drain seals? dealer stuff? i AM doing the R manifold in the process btw... would WD-40 work just as well as PB? should i get maybe 2-3 studs and mani nuts from the dealer just in case? Ok...If you are going to do the R manifold at the same time (which I'm glad you are), here's the parts you'll need. They can all be purchased from either fcpgroton or the dealership: - Oil crush washers - Water crush washers - Turbo drain pipe seal (turbo end) - Turbo drain pipe seal (block end) - Exhaust manifold gasket set (I'd purchase this from the dealership only, as I've seen some aftermarket sets that were less than impressive) - New exhaust manifold studs and (I guess some would say this is optional, but I never re-use the original exhaust studs. You're just asking for one of them to break in the future) - New turbo studs (Again...some may feel these are optional) Oh...and WD-40 will probably help, but in my experience it is nowhere near as good as PB Blaster. Just spend the $4-$5 for a can and then you'll have it for future projects too. Justin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Naughty33W Posted June 13, 2009 Report Share Posted June 13, 2009 wd40 is great but pb blaster is a whole nother level , i've used pb blaster when nothing else would work with great success many times in many different applications Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.