randomdude Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 i have no idea what the ohms of the stock seakers are. i suppose i could pull them all out and check. but if someone knows and would tell me that would be highly appreciated. i want to replace all the speakers. but if wired improper and the ohms are off cant it burn up my head unit? pretty much all aftermarket speakers are 4ohm. but im pretty sure they factory speakers arent. so wouldnt replace the dash tweets, front door, rear door, and rear deck speakers with 4ohm speakers likely burn out the head unit? and most aftermarket head units are meant to push 4 4ohm speakers, correct? so couldnt you fry something there as well? are you going to have to get into all kinds of crazy wiring to do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magicaljake Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 front doors are 4 ohms rear doors are 8 ohms and aftermarket headunits say the power rating on each impudence load will usualy be something like 50x4 watts @ 2 ohm or 25x4 watts @ 4 ohm also dont' forget how the rear deck speakers and the rear door speakers are wired in parallel so 2 8 ohms resistors wired in parallel have a total impedance of 4 ohms Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomdude Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 oh, i didnt know the rears are in parallel. that makes sense. but its gonna be hard to find 8ohm aftermarket speakers. guess ill have to ditch the rear door. that or run a small and and put 6.5 bass drivers in them. that would be cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 No real need to rewire. Aftermarket HUs will handle 8ohm no sweat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rush3rd Posted July 8, 2009 Report Share Posted July 8, 2009 Well, I did a COMPLETE overhaul of my system----everything but the stock radio (which is made by Alpine, so why bother? Besides, it syncs up perfectly with my 6-disc Alpine CD changer mounted under my passenger seat. Anywho, If you've got an 850 (or a variance of it----mine's a 1995 850 turbo sedan) then just do what I did: First, Crutchfield! They're the best! Unless you happen to find some other kind of deal elsewhere that can beat them (and they price match anything they sell), go with them. Their customer service is impeccible!!! Anyway, I bought Polk Audio from them----all around; and I also bought a 1000w amplifier from them; oh yeah, and I also bought the amplifier speaker cable from them. Finally, I went to my local high-end audio dealer in my area (for me, it was Myer-Emco) and I purchased Monster Cable speaker wire for car audio in bulk! Its MUCH cheaper that way. In fact, it was actually "cheap", compared to other "avenues". (I think I said "just give me 50 ft."; considering the distances you will cover, the routing, etc., 50 ft. isn't a bad estimate. Plus, if you have any left over, you can always use it later.) Okay, so I changed my crappy stock speakers (which were all made of paper cones and rotten foam/rubber gaskets) to top-end Polk Audio speakers. I bought ALL Polk Audio because: a) their reputation, the deal that they had going on with Crutchfield (Buy one, get one, or something like that), and c) the way they manufacture and test their products. I found out that Polk is on of the only manufacturers who uses lasers in designing their speakers so that the tolerances are as close to perfect as you can get. Also, the materials they use in manufacturing their products are second to none, and they will withstand the harshest temperatures imaginable. This is why I went with Polk Audio; but, check them out yourself on their website. At any rate, I replaced EVERYTHING! Now, my baby has Polk Audio (db Line) throughout the vehicle: Two (2) component tweeters in the dash, Two (2) 5 1/4 two-ways in the front doors, Two (2) 5 1/4 two-ways in the rear doors, and Two (2) 6x9 three-ways in the rear deck----for a total of eight high-end speakers all driven by a 1000w Amplifier mounted under the driver's seat. FYI: After the job was completed and I was setting my parameters (i.e. bass, overdrive, amp., etc.) I was using a test signal CD that included various audio test patterns, as well as a few select pieces of music. One of those was the Superman Theme written by John Williams (you know the one). Anyway, as I was "tweaking" my new system, a couple walking their dog came by and said, "Man, that sounds AWESOME!!! We thought there was a movie playing at the pool (I live near a community pool), but turns out, its a neighbor with a new system!..." They went on to ask 'what kind, where, how, etc.', but I digress. So, if you (or anyone else) is interested in how a tackled this feat (Volvo doesn't make it easy to install aftermarket speakers, especially in the rear deck) let me know and I'll be glad to walk you through it. B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Auburn T5 Posted August 5, 2009 Report Share Posted August 5, 2009 For the rear deck, rather than obsess over impedances, could you not just get an inexpensive 2 channel amp, send the factory signal wires to the amp and then send the signal from the amp to the speakers at a different ohm load? Is that possible or does it stay at the impedance that the headunit sends? Just curious becuase I'm considering swapping the rear deck speakers and if they're 8 ohms and the replacements I'm wanting to get are 4 ohms, I'd rather not run into issues with anything getting damaged and I'm wondering if I can get away with using 4 ohm rear deck speakers or if I should just buy an amp to power them and install that at the same time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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