How To Remove Crank Pulley?

[bw77]

I have a 99 S70GLT, want to replace timing belt. Due to fuel line running just below crank pulley, I can't see how the belt can be removed without removing the crank pulley even with the shield removed.

I removed the 30mm nut and the 4 10mm bolts, but the crank pulley won't come off. After doing some research I have found 4 possible solutions:

buy a pry bar as shown on Bay13 pages for the S40 belt job

buy a deadblow hammer (which size - they go from 1lb to 4lb) and hit it a few times (hit it where - no room to get behind it)

buy a harmonic balancer puller with correct bolt size (M6 x 1 ?)

buy a 2 jaw gear puller and pull it from the back of the pulley

I think the deadblow hammer would be best, but not sure which size and where to whack the pulley.

Thanks for your help.

[jnderr]

I have a 99 S70GLT, want to replace timing belt. Due to fuel line running just below crank pulley, I can't see how the belt can be removed without removing the crank pulley even with the shield removed.

I removed the 30mm nut and the 4 10mm bolts, but the crank pulley won't come off. After doing some research I have found 4 possible solutions:

buy a pry bar as shown on Bay13 pages for the S40 belt job

buy a deadblow hammer (which size - they go from 1lb to 4lb) and hit it a few times (hit it where - no room to get behind it)

buy a harmonic balancer puller with correct bolt size (M6 x 1 ?)

buy a 2 jaw gear puller and pull it from the back of the pulley

I think the deadblow hammer would be best, but not sure which size and where to whack the pulley.

Thanks for your help.

You can cut the belt off to remove it. You will be able to feed the new belt through without removing the crank pulley. I've done this on my 2000 V70 so I can attest to it working.

[Che'_Moderator]

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php

http://volvospeed.com/Mods/UndersizedCrankPulley.htm

[bw77]

Answering my original post:

I bought a 2lb deadblow hammer, hit the pulley a dozen times or so, and it fell off.

[boiseone]

I also have a 99 GLT but a V70. I have the hard fuel line as well. I did my timing belt last weekend. If you don't want to remove the crank you can remove the small metal fuel line holding bracket that is a little off to the right in the wheel well. It is a small square metal piece that holds the fuel line rigidly attached. There are two 10mm or T10 ? attachments that must be removed and then the metal bracket will slide around. This will give you a small amount of wiggle/ flex room for the hard fuel line, but not quite enough. After that, get a good sized fat screwdriver and wedge it carefully behind the metal fuel line. Off to the left slightly , like 6 o'clock to 7 o'clock is a good place. Be patient. Don't try to force it all at once. Go have a cup of coffee or something. What I found is that it will slowly deform/move enough over 15-30 min to allow you to slide the timing belt up behind it the narrow way. Contrary to everything I read, I found it worked best if I started right there at about 6 pm on a clock inserting the timing belt behind the crank and clearing that big bump down there. (Thanks to Howardc64 in the Volvo XC forum for his tips (Howard's P2 tips)on all the obstacles behind the crank. Also the pics of the bare crank at the post "timing belt weekend" were helpful. Without his notes, this would have been impossible.) Then move on to the right side clearing all the obstacles and then the left. Keep feeling with your fingers and make sure you're tight to the crank and not out on a bump somewhere. It really helps to have small fingers and a lot of patience to do this. (I am a woman.) For the rest of the belt I worked up to the top and found it went on easily if I did the right CAM LAST, NOT the tensioner. (I had done the clockwise 90 degrees on the CRANK (I marked it at 12 o'clock with whiteout so I could easily tell when I was at 90 degrees, then back counter clockwise 90 degrees to your timing marks routine to release the CVVT on the cams. Then I locked them using that red plastic cam locking tool from etooldirect. It's not the most robust piece of equipment, but it does the job. Make sure, if you use this one that you fully engage all 4 prongs in the cams or it won't be tight.) Anyway, using the cam locking tool allows you more freedom, I think, but I still wouldn't slam into it. I also bought the Gearwrench serpentine belt kit (comes in a black plastic case) from them - lots of different attachments for different cars/applications and I LOVE, LOVE that tool. Totally worth the money - it was $33 or so . Use a coupon and get 10 percent Off and free shipping. Anyway, my two cents. And my first timing belt replacement...

[Guest carelnagel]

Hi I'm just busy doing my 01 xc 70's timing belt. I have allready installed the new belt without removing the crank pully. I have accidentally moved the exhaust pully.. So now I have to line up all the timing marks. In which direction does the 30mm nut of the crank pully loosen? I made a pully holding tool and have been trying to loosen the pully the whole after noon without great success. Ussually the nuts on the pullies loosen in the same direction as in which the engine turn. Any advice??

[Fudge_Brownie]

Whoa.. If I read that right, you had one of the cam's turn (so therefore the gear turned) and now you want to loosen the crank pulley to rotate the crank pulley so that the marks are aligned? Do not do this! You would only be moving the marks, and not changing the position of anything inside the engine, which could mean catastrophic engine failure.

You need to manually rotate the cams (turn the cam gears WITHOUT loosening them) to close all the valves and then rotate the crank to line it up on the required mark. When ALL marks line up, without LOOSENING ANY BOLTS, then it is safe to put the timing belt on.

Or, you mean you want to remove the pulley in order to see the marks. Hopefully that is the case and I have simply assumed the worst. In that case, you should be able to do this without removing it.