Jump to content
Volvospeed Forums

Re-Doing My S70's Audio.. Need Advice


Auburn T5

Recommended Posts

Ok my front speakers are sounding like crap... very static filled and farty sounding.

I ordered a pair of the Boston Acoustics SR65's for the front doors.

https://www.electrawarehouse.com/productDetailsByName.php?name=Boston+Acoustics+SR65#

My 9 year old kenwood MP3 player is about to die as well. sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I've got this on the way to replace it

http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KDC-MP342U-Receiver-Satellite-Bluetooth/dp/B001P7TYTK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1247241413&sr=1-2

Now

I need some cheaper 6.5's for the back doors. $75 or less. For the rear deck, I've read here that they're 8" woofers?? If this is true, I have a pair of these already that I can put in there but are these going to be too much or would they work?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=293-262

If those will work, I'll try to wedge them in if it's going to be a tight fit but obviuosly that head unit won't power them. I've got a diamond audio 400 watt amp already but want to use that to power my 12 when that goes in so I guess my main question is should I invest in a nice 5 channel amp like this

http://www.productwiki.com/infinity-ref5350a/

And use it to run all the speakers splitting the sub output into both subs...

Or just get another decent 175 X 2 amp and simply use it for the rear 8"s? Like this?

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=209297131&listingid=36255510&dcaid=17902

I'm just wondering if those 8's in the back would rattle too much since they're SUBwoofers?

I guess If they will fit I could always keep them turned down lower and use the 12" in the trunk to create most of the low end or put some sound absorbing material on the metal surface of the top/bottom of the deck.

Anyways, so that's where I'm at. Any suggestions would be great on what will/won't work and what would be recommended.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think those 8's are going to sound very good in the rear deck since its not sealed properly and the dimensions won't be correct. the best thing to do would be to get some components for the front and amp them (or just amp the coaxial's that you have going in) and then wait and get a nice 10'' in the trunk.

PG RSD 5.25'' components

If you like rear fill (like i do) then you can get some speakers in the rear doors and put am amp to them as well.

lastly, sound deadener is going to be your friend. that will increase the sound quality by a greater factor than new speakers.

gl

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the info. Yeah back when I had my RSX, I used that B-Quiet extreme stuff on the doors when I replaced the door speakers. Made not only a big difference with the improved reduction of road noise but doing an A/B comparison of the stock speaker before and after sound deadening, it sounded like it improved the sound as well.

So I'm planning on using that stuff where possible on the inside of the door and the top/bottom of the rear deck.

another question... are the rear 8" speakers considered to be decent quality or is there a replacement 8" speaker that can run off the headunit's 50 watts.. which I guess would end up being around 25 watts per speaker if I split the power to both the rear deck and the rear door speakers...

The other option I suppose would be to just invest in a decent 6 channel amp and use that to run all 6 speakers.

What do you think?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The other option I suppose would be to just invest in a decent 6 channel amp and use that to run all 6 speakers.

What do you think?

that headunit is going to put out 4 channels...

i suppose you could use 6 if your had a LEFT and a RIGHT subwoofer in the trunk.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

well, check my thread. its pretty similar. i blew one of my rear deck speakers, so i unplugged it for now. the problem is... yes they are 8" speakers, but they are 8ohm speakers. Very Uncommon, and VERY expensive. one speaker from volvo is around 200 dollars. what i plan on doing, is fitting 6x8" speakers at 4ohms, but running them in series, to give me 8ohms. you lose R + L fading, but i dont fade anything so it doesnt matter to me. as for replacing them with 8" subs, you will get alot of buzz from the deck lid. also, you wont get the thump of a sub, because the air it is pushing is not enclosed in a box. its an open space (trunk)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Fallsey

Those will fit, but you will have to wire them in series and connect them to either the left or right lead.

Do you plan on putting subs in the trunk? Because the more I think about it, I am taking those rear speakers because they will distort with a sub in the trunk. I unplugged mine just to see and the air pushed by the sub under those speakers makes them push. Does your car have 8 speakers or 6?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 tweeters, 4 in the doors and 2 rear deck.

I've got a 12 in the trunk already but I'm hearing just lack of any real clarity or detail from the sound.

I added bquiet xtreme on the front doors when i put the new bostons in and they just destroy the back half of the car so bad, it's really bugging me.

so I'm wondering if i should replace the back door speakers or the rear deck....

I'm looking at these for the rear deck

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091210CA1/Focal-Access-210CA1.html?search=focal+8

with maybe JL Audio's 2X75 watt amp to power them (and hopefully do away with the 8 ohm limitations the stock rear speakers present)

and something not quite as expensive as the boston acustics I've got in the front but something decent... maybe $100 a pair door speakers...

I've also got a ton of the bquiet material left to do the back doors and rear deck and possibly some of the trunk.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Fallsey

What amp drives your sub? What is the LPF set too?

What deck do you have? What are the RCA preouts for? Front, rear, and subs?

Does your deck have an HPF? Try setting that to 125hz

does it have LPF? Set that to 50-63 hz.

Doing that makes the front speakers play the mids and highs, an the sub just handles lows. Taking the rear deck speakers out also boosts your bass.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The head unit is a Kenwood KDC-MP342U

I'm using a diamond audio 600.1 mono amp. Roughly 300~ish watts @ 4 ohms which I believe is what the sub (infinity Kappa 120.1se) RMS watt rating is (1200w peak). It's mounted in a Q-logic type 4 ported band pass enclosure so there's much more low end. I actually keep the power amp's gain knob rolled back to about 1/3 power so I'm looking to get more mids and low mids from inside the car more than anything.

The 6.5"'s seem to handle highs and upper mids very very well but really don't have much lower midrange to offer and that's what I'm hoping I can get out of some higher quality rear deck speakers.

Right now, I've actually got the audio being faded about 25% to the rear to try and compensate for the huge difference between the new front door speakers and rear speakers. The front door speakers just have SO much more clarity and presence that they easily drown out all of the lower mids so I'm left with upper mids, highs and really low's from the sub.

the problem is that most of what I listen to is rock music so those mids are more important than anything really.

I've played around with the frequency response on the power amp and it's crossover to try and isolate the sub's operating range to just the really punching low's that a kick drum would typically create and high enough to get SOME of the bass guitar in but not much. that part is tricky because the sub can easily overwhelm everything else in the car so it's a bit of a balancing act with the crossover, bass gain knob on the remote and the bass adjustment on the headunit itself.

I've found that turning on the bass boost and raising the bass eq on the head unit to get as much low end from the door/deck speakers as possible and then adjusting the sub xover/gain/level has produced the most balanced mix but right now, I need those mids and lower mids more than anything.

I've contemplated ditching the band pass box and getting a smaller maybe a type 2 box of theirs (qlogic) that has a port that can be sealed or opened up to try and get more punch from the low end and less excursion duration and what not but I've had this sub/box in 4 different cars now (all of which used larger door/deck speakers) and never encountered this problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...