highhighs Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 hello all, in the "For all out there ..." pined thered it wasnt mentions how to choose the rating :how should i choose a sub,amp and speakers. should the amp rms value be higher that that of the sub(which seems impossible with the budget i have) ? also i want to get tweaters and connecte them the the HU which puts 25WattsRMSx4. the tweatera are 50W nominal(RMS ?) are they more than the HU can handel ? also i want to buy a sub(10') and and amp but i dont know how to choose the ratings like the first question the hu preamp 2.2/1kohm.and i have a 95 850 GLE would the tweaters fit ?HU pioneer deh-1500R (already have it)tweaters pioneer ts-t110amp 4channel pioneer GM-X574?(maybe)sub pioneer TS-W254(maybe) 10'do u think i should get a smaller sub, if the smaller sub can give enough bass with less price and less amp power need it would be ok or the min is 10'can i make a home made inclosure for the sub ?and i want to connect the backstage speakers the the amp , not a known manifacturer but i cant change them now. mind u i just want to improve sound quality(not loudness) ( rock, classic, rap wierd comb eih )as you see i know sh*** thank you alot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bing_0 Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 actually i think in my post i do say, get a good set of 6.5s and put 50 or more watts to it or something to that effect.well, you have touched up on one of hte most confusing, and often misunderstood part of car audio, and no way can i explain it all clearly here.but, one word of advice, dont get lost on the numbers. here are some basic rules for you:1. regardless of what a headunit says it puts out, just think it really puts out 15 watts or so per channel. in other words, if you want good sound, dont use a headunit to power anything.2. good amp companys generally underrate their amps, bad ones over rate their amps, meaning a 50 watt orion amp puts out closer to 75 watts in reality while a 1000 watt pyramid amp is pushing out more like 100 watts.3. when matching speakers with amps, dont be afraid to get amps that is rated higher than the spekaer is rated for, meaning, if you have a spekaer claiming 50 watts RMS, dont be afraid to get an amp taht sends it 75 watts rms, becuae you can tune the gains down to compensate 4. dont get lost on the numbers, just like car's performance specs, specs are not the end all to car audio. just cause you have a higher rated amp on a higher rated sub doesnt mean you are going to end up wiht a louder system than someone else with a lower rating 5. do a lost of listening, at stores, at shows, in other peoples cars, experience will be the best lession you learn when it comes to things like this. b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blazen244 Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 also you can install crossovers to protect the speakers you are going to put in like with your tweeters and the front and rear doors ,but with the rear deck I have found that a nice pair of 6x9"s work great for mid bass .With your sub you might want to choose wisely all are not equal.If you want to stick with the 10" thats fine for space saving make sure the woofer you choose has an enclosure that matches the specs for the best sound out of it I have a T-5 w/ 2 12" solo barics for subs, 2 XPL10" for mid bass,6x9 in the rear deck, components in the doors and not using the dash locations You can do alot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theunderlord Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 Oh, here's a blatant plug for JL audio... respected manufacturer. See my cardomain page for install details. rock on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highhighs Posted November 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 thank you all, the problem is that sub only lists its max power not the nominal one i'll check around thank you again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theunderlord Posted November 12, 2004 Report Share Posted November 12, 2004 thank you all, the problem is that sub only lists its max power not the nominal one i'll check around thank you again←sub and model number? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highhighs Posted November 13, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2004 pioneer TS-W254, i guess its Max power /2 right ? so rms power is 250 watts i was told by somebody that minimum for our cars is a 12" sub is this true or is e trying to make a sale?also if it is a 4 channel amp do i have to bridge 2 pairs of channel or can i have 2 channels bridged and 2 not so i can connect a sub and the 2 back speakers?are blaupunkt amps good ?thank you all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highhighs Posted November 14, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 if they say on an sub 50-200watts power rms can i connect the sub to a 50w rms amp(a channel) ? on the crutchfield site they put for each amp the power range . what do u think of his amp sub combo ? Profile AP104080W x 4 car amplifierhttp://www.crutchfield.com/S-3AD2oybWC29/c...ecs&i=489AP1040 Blaupunkt TSw100010" component subwooferhttp://www.crutchfield.com/S-3AD2oybWC29/c...00&I=023TSW1000thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bing_0 Posted November 14, 2004 Report Share Posted November 14, 2004 i guess nothing i said meant anyhting dont get lost in the specs, if a sub says its rms 50-250 wats rms, and its from a reputable manufacturer, with in your budget put anywhere between 2-400 watts to it, if you have more wattage, the better, not only can you turn the gains downand gain more head room, but it frees up you later to upgrade to a bigger, beefier sub there is no such thing a a minimum sub size for a car, its all dependant on how loud you want it...a s ingle 12 with a 300 watts or so would not be a bad set up for our wagons...as for the amps you suggested, i would try to stay away from profile, not a very good manufactuer, the amp will work fine, and will sound okay, but i have experienced reliablity issues...the sub is okay too, it wont get very loud , but it will work...try something like this for that price range: look around onthe web:usacoustics 4080 or 4085 for the amp, and a crystal pro se 12, or pioneer tsw 305c, something like that, better equipment, and better output for similar pricing, of ocurse they are not hte only good choices, just two off hte top of my head b Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highhighs Posted November 15, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2004 thank you alot now can i directly bridge 2 channels and connect them to the sub and the remaining 2 channles directly connect them to the backstage speackers or do i need some other equip. also? ( what is tri-mode?)(sorry my questions might seem stupid but i know sh** about car audio but and dont like to be ripped off ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
highhighs Posted December 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 has anybody here purchased from thezeb.com website ? are they reliable. bing_o what do u think of the USacoustics usg-4125 i'm checking it out because the usc-4085 does not have a bass-boost controle and why do thezeb have a 290$ discount on it ? it is not stated anywhere that it is refurbished or used . if its good an thezeb.com are reliable i'll have someone bring it with him from the us.http://www.thezeb.com/p-USacoustics-USG-41...fier-108742.htmnote is bass-boost neccessairy?also what other stuff should i order with teh amp? how much RCA wire length do i need, power gauge/length, fuse , speaker wires ,etc. im not a us resident so i havce to order them as a whole so the guy can bring them with him i have a 95 850(sedan), sub/amp goes in the trunk against the backseatdoes wirimg kit manifact. mater or is this another stupid question from me ?thank you again for the trouble Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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