lotsofmagnets Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 I haven't had time to check. More pressing issues including a oil return line that was missing a fastener . Yeah, under a oil soaked car at midnight is no fun. my usual solution for that is to chuck a bucket underneath and save it for ´ron. midnight is no time to be under a car... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ozark Lee Posted September 17, 2009 Report Share Posted September 17, 2009 Somehow I think lotsofmagnets is going to be a fun addition to the group. Seems to have a sense of humor which goes a long way around here. If you need schematics they can be had from here: http://mojevolvo.pl/wiki/Strona_g%C5%82%C3%B3wna It is a Polish site and it is kinda slow but look under Samochoday Osobowe and then under the appropriate model number for the schematics. The schematics are in English. I think this site has many more resources but my ability to read the Polish language really sucks. ...Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotsofmagnets Posted September 18, 2009 Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 i think one needs a sense of humour to own and *enjoy* a volvo, especially the boxy-but-safe generations... cheers for the wiring diagrams. i had a look through them and if what has been said is true that both types of setup output 48 pulses/revolution then i guess it comes down to the type of signal they output. it looks like the early sensor only closes a loop whereas the latter type actually outputs a signal. i suspect the signal out would be some kind of +ve voltage which would need to be provided to the other side of the transmission sensor for it to output the correct pulsed voltage. is there anyway to find out what the abs unit puts out without sourcing an oscilloscope? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotsofmagnets Posted September 18, 2009 Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 also, to tidy up anthonyr´s hack a little, it looks like if you had access to a yazaki cluster you would only need the speedo and not the whole unit to do the conversion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted September 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 also, to tidy up anthonyr´s hack a little, it looks like if you had access to a yazaki cluster you would only need the speedo and not the whole unit to do the conversion So, cannabalizing my current gauge is out of the question? Because I have a VDO(?), not the yazaki. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotsofmagnets Posted September 18, 2009 Report Share Posted September 18, 2009 i´m quite sure the vdo unit is a 1-piece affair with no actual separable assemblies inside. i think bringing in a pre 95 cluster from europe where most seem to be yazakis could be the best option in that respect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotsofmagnets Posted March 11, 2010 Report Share Posted March 11, 2010 I pulled the diagrams for both clusters and it should just plug in and work. No need to tap battery voltage at all. The speedometer - signal is just ground. The Speedometer + signal is the pulsed signal from the sensor. If it doesn't just work try grounding the Green / Yellow wire on pin 2 of the connector to the chassis or to the Brown wire on pin 15. ...Lee finally got around to playing. i have a cluster from a 97 and 1st attempt was to plug and play. speedo didn´t work which has bought up the flashing arrow. 2nd attempt was to cross the grren/yellow wire from pin 2 to the brown wire at pin 15 but this didn´t work either. 3rd attempt was to cross pin 2 with the blue/red wire at pin 18 which makes more sense as the speedo is looking for a +ve signal (not sure what voltage but 12 is as good as any ) but this still hasn´t worked. perhaps i should remove the wire from pin 2 and try that again just in case something is shorting out inside the cluster but i´m thinking now to just get the yazaki cluster and go that route. also, the abs light seems to stay on. i do have a prob with my abs system but it usually drives for a little but then both the abs and traction control light come on. any ideas now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotsofmagnets Posted June 13, 2010 Report Share Posted June 13, 2010 ok, finally had nothing better to do so i went ahead and installed the 98 R cluster into my 94 850. i followed anthony´s work previously but tidied things up a lot. this time i´ve been successful except the abs light is on. i deviated from anthony´s method but using only the circuit board from the old cluster. this meant i was able to put it behind the new cluster in the free space. what i used (so far) is the new cluster (obviously,) an old pre-OBD2 cluster and the large plug with about 50cm of wiring i was able to take with it. with all of this the result is quite neat. initially i removed all the unnecessary wiring from the new plug (i.e. everything but wires 6,15,16,17,18) and de-pinning wires 2 and 3 from the main plug in the car. i was able to thread these 2 wires back through the loom a little to give myself a lot of slack and i put them into the same place in the new plug (ie they became pins 2 & 3 in the new plug) i wired pin 6 from the new plug to pin 3 of the main plug using one of the unnecessary wires i unpinned previously and i had enough slack with the cables from pins 15-18 that they reached the main plug. i combined the wires from 16 and 18 and plugged piggy-backed them onto pin 18 of the main plug and combined 15 and 17 and piggy backed them onto pin 15 (it would be the same to pin 17.) i placed the board of the old cluster the other way around (ie gauges face forward) with the original plastic cover attached and held it there while i slid the new cluster in front of it into the pins. it´s enough of a press fit to hold everything in place so no chopping or wired everywhere is required. a test drive has revealed that everything works (including the speedo ) but the abs light is not going away so i´m wondering what the wiring differences are there. any ideas? to avoid confusion in my slab of text: main plug: the big green 30 pin plug to the cluster that´s in the car and securely attached to the car through ~30 wires new plug: a big green 30 pin plug you´ve obtained from a car that´s hopefully in worse condition that yours with as much of the wires as you can. ok, finally had nothing better to do so i went ahead and installed the 98 R cluster into my 94 850. i followed anthony´s work previously but tidied things up a lot. this time i´ve been successful except the abs light is on. i deviated from anthony´s method but using only the circuit board from the old cluster. this meant i was able to put it behind the new cluster in the free space. what i used (so far) is the new cluster (obviously,) an old pre-OBD2 cluster and the large plug with about 50cm of wiring i was able to take with it. with all of this the result is quite neat. initially i removed all the unnecessary wiring from the new plug (i.e. everything but wires 6,15,16,17,18) and de-pinning wires 2 and 3 from the main plug in the car. i was able to thread these 2 wires back through the loom a little to give myself a lot of slack and i put them into the same place in the new plug (ie they became pins 2 & 3 in the new plug) i wired pin 6 from the new plug to pin 3 of the main plug using one of the unnecessary wires i unpinned previously and i had enough slack with the cables from pins 15-18 that they reached the main plug. i combined the wires from 16 and 18 and plugged piggy-backed them onto pin 18 of the main plug and combined 15 and 17 and piggy backed them onto pin 15 (it would be the same to pin 17.) i placed the board of the old cluster the other way around (ie gauges face forward) with the original plastic cover attached and held it there while i slid the new cluster in front of it into the pins. it´s enough of a press fit to hold everything in place so no chopping or wired everywhere is required. a test drive has revealed that everything works (including the speedo ) but the abs light is not going away so i´m wondering what the wiring differences are there. any ideas? to avoid confusion in my slab of text: main plug: the big green 30 pin plug to the cluster that´s in the car and securely attached to the car through ~30 wires new plug: a big green 30 pin plug you´ve obtained from a car that´s hopefully in worse condition that yours with as much of the wires as you can. should also mention i used an old vdo cluster. for the yazaki, i think you´d have to use the speedometer, figure out the various wires and hide it somewhere. or do something else.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lotsofmagnets Posted June 14, 2010 Report Share Posted June 14, 2010 bandaid fix: moving the violet wire from the smaller 16 pin connector (known as from pin 6 to pin 14 turns the trunk open light into the abs warning light. removing the globe for the abs light makes this solution complete. what i´ll do next is cut the wires on the back of t5he board to make pin 14 work the abs light or figure out the "I/F" in the wiring diagram and remove it as it seems to be the last remaining issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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