lookforjoe Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Took the head off today Not bad for 30K of pretty hard use, and at least 10-15K on a Woth tune that people said was way to lean looks like the cap or rotor was tracking/arcing onto the base plate here... Parts all laid out for the newer head install - DK060718 serpentine baffles in the cam cover for the two vents Head on the car. Bad news is, when I went to torque the intake cam hub to 120nm, there was a "pop" & the hubs rotates independently - the other end was locked with the Volvo locking tool. Obviously the cam is broken, there's no other possible cause. I'll have to take them back out tomorrow & install the regular Volvo cams until I can sort this out with Enem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Damn!!!!!! That sucks. I'd rather have that happen in your driveway putting it back together compared to that happening when I fire it up and start driving it. Looks good though. I like. :tup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GltGreco Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 that is some bad luck, but im sure you will work it out you always do. I hope they take care of you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Took the cover back off, cams are fine - which probably means that the hub bolt is bottoming out in the cam before the hub is tensioned/torqued. maybe the Enem cams are not drilled as deep as the Volvo cams.. Have to get heavy duty spacer washers, I guess. At least it's not the cam! EDIT: - end slot area is pressed & loctited onto cam :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
550 Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Buy shorter bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GltGreco Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 well that must have been a relief! I cant wait for this to all be put together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 well that must have been a relief! I cant wait for this to all be put together Well, that didn't work. Put it all back topgether, go to torque the front intake hub, and no go. I can rotate the back end of the intake cam independently of the front. If I turn the front, the back will turn with it (and open /close the valves), as long as there is no lock on the back. So, even though the cam on inspection appears to be one piece, somehow the back is actually sheared. Makes no sense to me, as there was no evidence of a crack, and the cam is in one piece!!!! Now I have to take it apart again, and email Enem AGAIN to tell them it actually is defective. Took a quick flip video of it, but it's so choppy on my old laptop, I can't tell if you can see what's going on. I'll post it up once it's processed to .m4v format Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gilber33 Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 That is fucked up. :blink: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 It has to be sheared as that is next to impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Weird For clarification, you are twisting the bolt on the front end of the cam, and that rectangular block is attached to the back end of the cam? Or is that the VVT hub on the front side of the cam? I find it really hard to believe that 120Nm would have sheared the cam unless there was a serious defect in the production. Plus, it would be pretty obvious, things never shear in nice flat planes... :ph34r: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Weird For clarification, you are twisting the bolt on the front end of the cam, and that rectangular block is attached to the back end of the cam? Or is that the VVT hub on the front side of the cam? I find it really hard to believe that 120Nm would have sheared the cam unless there was a serious defect in the production. Plus, it would be pretty obvious, things never shear in nice flat planes... Took the cams to the machine shop - with the cam locked, rotating the front of the cam by the center bolt, we could watch the back slotted cap ROTATE on the f'king CAM!!! For whatever reason, the slotted end is press fitted on the cam. I'll try to take a pic of it, but it's really hard to see the line. So, both cams are useless as is. I've 'eyeballed' the slots back to the same reference marker as the stock cams, so I may install them, I just can't use the Volvo locking tool to torque the cam hubs, I'll use an old t/belt & vise grips, with the IPD lock tool inbetween the gears. At least I know it's nothing I did & I'm not going crazy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Is there a spot outside the bearing and seal surface where you can drill though the sleeve and reach the cam base?? This way you could try to tig weld the sleeve with something like 2 small welds inside the drill holes but the slot needs to be in the correct position for the distributer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 While there may be a way to attempt to fix it, why bother? If you have the stock cams to put in there so you can at least complete the head swap, I would return the cams for a replacement set, get your money back and buy them elsewhere or use the money toward something else. What are the specs on these cams compared to the stock ones? I'm sure they weren't cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 While there may be a way to attempt to fix it, why bother? If you have the stock cams to put in there so you can at least complete the head swap, I would return the cams for a replacement set, get your money back and buy them elsewhere or use the money toward something else. What are the specs on these cams compared to the stock ones? I'm sure they weren't cheap. I've asked them for a set of replacement cams. Suffice it to say they cost almost half what I paid for the car. 264/110/9.6/0.8 Enem Y21 cams. Locked the cam hubs with an old belt, torqued to 88ft/lbs, no lock tool used at rear. markers aligned at rear.... ...at true TDC comparsion with stock cam reference markers (@ true TDC) The surgery bay IAT bung fitted to manifold while it was out Is there a spot outside the bearing and seal surface where you can drill though the sleeve and reach the cam base?? This way you could try to tig weld the sleeve with something like 2 small welds inside the drill holes but the slot needs to be in the correct position for the distributer. That is what the machine shop had in mind, counter sink the groove & weld the end caps. But, since we don't know exactly where the reference slots originated, not worth it for the amount I paid for the cams - they need to send me a replacement set. I installed them anyway, as either way, the cam cover has to come back off, might as well get a sense of how these perform. I rotated the slots to match the old stock cams, relative to the center line of #5 lobes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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