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Chilled man

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Ok total newb amp question

4x100 = what 4 channels each at 100watts or 4 channels at 25watts each ?

Since my alpine 5 channel just took a dump I need a 4 channel amp.

with that being said a stock head has 4x50 is that 50 watts each or 12.5watts per channel.

since I have a spare C70 amp and IIRC thats 4x100 ?

Now that being said do car manufactures amps tend to over rate them compared to the aftermarket suff being underated ?

Considering I ditch every C70 amp and install a Alpine pdx5 in place of it thats rated at 4x75 and 300x1 and that always sounds better even with out the sub being installed .

So i guess I kind of answered my first question with the alpine deal being 300x1 or not ?

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Ok total newb amp question

4x100 = what 4 channels each at 100watts or 4 channels at 25watts each ?

100 watts into each one of the 4 channels = 400 total

Since my alpine 5 channel just took a dump I need a 4 channel amp.

with that being said a stock head has 4x50 is that 50 watts each or 12.5watts per channel.

headunit ratings are usually MAX power or what i would call, austin power ratings(bullshit numbers) usually something along the 8-12watt range

since I have a spare C70 amp and IIRC thats 4x100 ?

another max power rating, alpine did not go to the CEA standard rating untill 2006, so i'd say that amp is about 4x50 at most

Now that being said do car manufactures amps tend to over rate them compared to the aftermarket suff being underated ?

no, there is just no standard to rate things at. this is good reading to understand the CEA-2006 standard http://www.crutchfield.com/S-TFvJpNckVLp/learn/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_glossary.html

Considering I ditch every C70 amp and install a Alpine pdx5 in place of it thats rated at 4x75 and 300x1 and that always sounds better even with out the sub being installed .

The alpine PDX series amps are high density amplifiers, the 75 watt per channel rating is true power regardless of impedance the amp "sees". These amps maintain the smae form factor, you can't plug the speakers in out of phase unless you wired the speakers wrong. Alpine's speaker plug is made so that you can't reverse the polarity @ the amp.

So i guess I kind of answered my first question with the alpine deal being 300x1 or not ?

the 300x1 is still 300 watts mono for your sub.

Now compared to alpines cheap ass MRP-F300 4 channels, amp needs to see 2ohns to get 75watts per channel, a regualr speaker on it will only net you 50 watts per channel.

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ahhhh I didnt want to text you all that :lol:

let me sell some stuff next weekend and I will take another PDx5 B)

Why? You are always quick to comment on how you dislike stock Volvo audio components, but those older stock Alpine amps seem to be VERY reliable. It might not be the greatest amp in the world, but with them being so common and cheap you can always find them. Put your current amp in, it costs you nothing to do. Want more volume then add another stock amp beside it. 2 of those will produce more power than your PDx5 and cost less money. Unless of course Ghost Shadow is selling them to you for under 100$.

P.S. Why or how did your PDx5 break?

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Why? You are always quick to comment on how you dislike stock Volvo audio components, but those older stock Alpine amps seem to be VERY reliable. It might not be the greatest amp in the world, but with them being so common and cheap you can always find them. Put your current amp in, it costs you nothing to do. Want more volume then add another stock amp beside it. 2 of those will produce more power than your PDx5 and cost less money. Unless of course Ghost Shadow is selling them to you for under 100$.

P.S. Why or how did your PDx5 break?

No its a much older amp then the PDx5

would think at least 5yrs old .

Not sure why it stopped working but channels 3 and 4 have no sound output what so ever.

Its nice having one amp and that does all the door speakers and the sub and is the size of a piece of paper you can hid it anywhere in the car :D

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No its a much older amp then the PDx5

would think at least 5yrs old .

Not sure why it stopped working but channels 3 and 4 have no sound output what so ever.

Its nice having one amp and that does all the door speakers and the sub and is the size of a piece of paper you can hid it anywhere in the car :D

Sounds like your mind was already made up. Spend your money on what makes you happy.

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A good 4 channel amp should do fine...i don't know your current setup, but make sure its 2 ohm safe if your gonna run the front in parallel...Rear should be fine for 4 ohm load.

IF you buy a good brand (i prefer HIGH end pioneer, their low end stuff is eh, high end is $$ but very very good) like JL, Alpine,RF, etc etc you will see higher. Also, the stock amp i don't think has HPF or anything like that...so if you've got a sub in your car, and stock head unit, your wasting your time cause it'll always sound like dog-butt. Alot of the pioneers were higher rated, but theirs this thing called CEA ratings, and you'll see it says 'CEA-2006' compliant...which means it meets their standards. However, people run tests, and find over and over again that the amps provide more power then stated.

I don't know the stock speaker setup of your car, but, if you figure out if your fronts in parallel or series, and what the ohms are on all the speakers, you can match a specific amp and get maxiimummm powah! And i would assume you arent going to use the stock wiring.....amp will be starved.

The stock amp in my 850R can't handle the ohm load of the front speakers i'm running, so, as of right now i run off my pioneer HU's amp...louder, clearer, but of course not the bass i would have with that amp. Thats why i have my 600w RMS amp and 2 12's...infinity perfects are very nice SQ, for what you pay...not many subs can do below 20hz like these do =0

moral of the story: Aftermarket IS better. Why? Better componenets results in longevity, less clipping(yea the stock amp in my car clipped like a mofo) , and more power thats not stated. But of course, better components are in better brands, better brands are more money. Pay for what you get =) Run 2 2 channel amps. 1 for the front, so you can figure out the whole front dash speaker dealio, one for the rear to do pure Highpass if you have a 3rd amp in the rear for the sub.

Power isn't everything when your not dealing with subwoofers...SQ of these amps is a huge consideration.

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Stock headunit ....................... :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol: I have a the JVC 7" touch screen in the wagon now and I have a spare Pinoeer touchscreen unit sitting on my table right now acutally :lol:

mmm do like =0

If its got the preouts though, definitely do the 3 amp route :) I wouldn't stick with any stock volvo stuff...hell if i had the time and money i'd rewire it with 12 gauge speaker wire...it's not even expensive, i'm just lazy =0

but seriously...even if you did the amp, the wire in these cars isn't even thick enough(atleast that of my 96...the 93's wire was even smaller!), the wire acts a resistor at the high current rates so it'd be a waste imho.

I'm curious how Double din lcds look in our cars..i'm thinking of when i have the money to afford the 3 amps and everything, to look into it :)

HLI is so ick though...subwoofers on stock setup is just grody lol..no offense to anyone, just my room is filled with klipsch speakers =)

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