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Lifter Noise At 125,Xxx !?


Matt854T5

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Bought the car A year ago with 112,xxx and it purred now it has 125 and I'm getting a lot of lifter noise? doesn't that seem like pretty low miles to be having A problem like that is there any additives I can put in there that will help.. Ive done engine flushes tried different weights of oil.. local shops around town say its an 8 hr job and is going to be about A grand to do.. don't really have that kinda money laying around.. any simple fix's or should I just start saving?

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check oil pressure,and if noisy only a short time after start up try checking oil pump seal unless done yourself or help from a friend this could be costly and if you do,do it consider doing timing kit install [t-belt,water pump, tensioner and pulley about 300-350 in parts

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Before going any further, check the purge valve, I found that mine makes a noise that sounds exactly like lifter tick at idle, but you can feel the valve itself going thudthudthudthud, while the engine feels smooth (for an idling engine.. haha)

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I'm going to guess that your oil sump o-rings are getting old. I had lifter tick and that unusual whining sound when the engine was cold, and my car was only at 120k miles and some change. Replacing the oil sump o-rings did the trick. Parts aren't expensive (few bucks for a few o-rings) but removing your oil pan is quite difficult, more so if you don't have a lift.

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This is what I did for my T5M with 150k (at the time).

1/3 bottle Seafoam (search in the forum to find its many use) in the crank for about 5 mins idle then flush.

Rinsed it with sacrificial 6 qts of dino oil and the free crappy filter that came with it on sale for $10+ - just idled it for some minutes then flushed. (optional, Chuck 'berated' me for this, lol)

Then I started the Auto Rx treatment (google it for more info).

After all this, car is quiet as it can be, even at cold start.

And bonus is, the oil does not get cloudy as fast as it used to shortly after oil change.

Of course, the hope here is that the o-rings and sump pump seal are not the issue, or that AutoRx actually magically reconditioned them.

Worth trying imo if only because as mentioned, pan drop is not fun without a lift - and OP was asking for chemical treatment ;).

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Funny u mentioned that seam foam stuff cz i just bought a bottle today for the hell of it put it in and its not completly gone but it helped considerably.. thats the only additive thats accyully done anything its almost completly quiet but u can still kinda hear it and if it idels for awhile it gets a little louder..ill look at getting those o rings.. and again thanks guys for the help

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This is what I did for my T5M with 150k (at the time).

1/3 bottle Seafoam (search in the forum to find its many use) in the crank for about 5 mins idle then flush.

Rinsed it with sacrificial 6 qts of dino oil and the free crappy filter that came with it on sale for $10+ - just idled it for some minutes then flushed. (optional, Chuck 'berated' me for this, lol)

Then I started the Auto Rx treatment (google it for more info).

After all this, car is quiet as it can be, even at cold start.

And bonus is, the oil does not get cloudy as fast as it used to shortly after oil change.

Of course, the hope here is that the o-rings and sump pump seal are not the issue, or that AutoRx actually magically reconditioned them.

Worth trying imo if only because as mentioned, pan drop is not fun without a lift - and OP was asking for chemical treatment ;).

I sort of did the same with the Amzoil Engine Flush and adding their synthetic to get me by till I can get to the seals. Engine tick is only present at start up every now and then. Which is better than all the time. I have 203K on the clock. Also the extra beniffit of not having to change the oil till the next year.

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I'm going to guess that your oil sump o-rings are getting old. I had lifter tick and that unusual whining sound when the engine was cold, and my car was only at 120k miles and some change. Replacing the oil sump o-rings did the trick. Parts aren't expensive (few bucks for a few o-rings) but removing your oil pan is quite difficult, more so if you don't have a lift.

+1

Was getting ticking any time the oil level was anything other than 100% topped off, and particularly after any "spirited driving." Bit the bullet and had this done and -- problem solved. Around $400 at an indie shop.

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