01 V70 Ignition Switch Won'T Go Past Position I

[JesterKB]

It finally happened to me! I've read numerous times about people complaining their ignition key locked up. I had always thought it was because of side force on the steering wheel lock, you pull the steering wheel off the stop locks to reduce the stress and bingo, you're good to go. Now I know that wasn't the issue. The key inserts normally, and advances to position one (which is past the steering wheel lock, and you can turn the wheel) and you get some of the dash lights. However the key hits something internally and refuses to rotate further to the start position. I thought it might be some part of the security system so I called our local shop and asked if I could reset something by locking and unlocking the car with the remote or key or just stand on my head. They stated it appears something is broken inside and I'll need to have it towed in.

So in final desperation after jiggling, applying force in out, sideways I just torqued on it real hard towards the start position (around 10-15 foot pounds). Something felt like it broke, and the key went to the start position. I immediately drove home and did not make any of the planned stops in fear of being stranded.

At home I injected a small amount of tri-flow oil (has Teflon) using one of those small red tube extensions to get into the lock. In trying the key again, I could still feel a small catch at that position. More tri-flow, and now the catch is gone altogether and it appears normal.

Sorry for the long read, but here's the question for the group:

1) Does anyone know what went wrong?

2) Should we advise owners to periodically lube this area? Mine is a 2001 with 204K miles

3) What lubricant is recommended?

4) Should I now replace the lock mechanism, and if so any estimates on cost and degree of difficulty and special tooling required?

Thanks all, I hope we can learn more on this issue.

Jerry

[Ihatespeedbumps]

Your ignition tumbler has failed. You will need to special order one from Volvo. Have your VIN number ready when you call the parts department. Last I checked it takes 3-10 business days to get it from Volvo, since made specific for your vehicle.

In order to replace you will need to remove the steering wheel and airbag, steering column covers and a few other misc. things. The tumbler is held in place by two break away bolts that must be drilled out. Caution must be taken here because you can drill through the steering column. An angle air drill is your best friend in this situation.

[JesterKB]

I hatespeedbumps, thanks for the input. I believe you are correct. Today I took off the column trim pieces to "look around". Not much to see so far, but I did locate the electronic portion to the switch and I removed it to confirm you can start it with a screw driver provided the key is in position one (disengages the mechanical locks). While I had that side off I sprayed on some Kroil with graphite, and also again from the key side using the thin red tube extension to get well inside the lock mechanism. All is now smooth as a baby's bottom, but I'll leave off the trim for a while and carry the tools I'd need for an emergency "screw driver" start. If all goes well as I would expect it too, I'll fully button it up in about a month.

Is there any more lubrication than what I've done? I didn't see how the key light ring and chip recognizer comes off the cylinder, nor did I see how the cable comes off. Any hints would be helpful while I have most of it exposed. What about the brass plate on the bottom of the cylinder? If I remove it (not that I know how), can you put it back, or do the guts drop out and you are screwed, or the plate once removed is not replaceable. As you can tell, I'm relatively new to these Volvos. Give me something from the 70's and I could take it apart and reassemble blindfolded!

Jerry

[mkc70]

I didn't see how the key light ring and chip recognizer comes off the cylinder, nor did I see how the cable comes off. Any hints would be helpful while I have most of it exposed.

If you are describing the antenna ring then with the steering cover removed it simply slides off the cylinder. Electronic plug connected to ring simply unclip and remove. If you have an automatic and are describing the shifter/key cable it too pops out.

Both photos are by Lloyddobler

What about the brass plate on the bottom of the cylinder? If I remove it (not that I know how), can you put it back, or do the guts drop out and you are screwed, or the plate once removed is not replaceable.

The plate is fitted securely. Only way to remove would be to destroy it to get it out. Use a dremel w/ a cutoff wheel and drill bits. The following link on Matthews has more images and directions, good luck:

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13514

[MrWinkey]

To the best of my knowledge it is actually much cheaper to get the lock cylinder not keyed to the rest of the car however that will give you a second key for the ignition only. I know our local dealer stocks one this way.

PLease be very careful of air bag removal. Also apply heavy grease to drill bit so it can absorb the metal shavings when drilling shear bolt heads.

[JesterKB]

For us folks relatively new to the newer Volvos, it's "All in the details". After MCK70's response I took another closer look. I had seen the little notch on the front of the antenna ring, but didn't know to push or pull. Well, it's push real hard and slide off the ring. This gave me access to the cable, which slipped off easily, after squeezing up on the tab. Didn't want to come out, but then remembered someone saying it's easier if the key is in position 1. So I did that and the cable came right out! No binding at the cable, so I left it alone. Did take the opportunity to spray some Kroil graphite up into where the cable connects. Couldn't see crap, but gave it a good shot and collected the drips with a paper towel. Reassembled it all only to find the car won't start, and the tranny won’t come out of park.

I remembered about resetting the alarm by activating the remote, so I did that twice and the car starts, but will not come out of park. So off comes the antenna again, and I push a little harder on the cable. Yep, I'll bet Mr. Winkey and the rest of the guys with experience are laughing "rookie", as the cable slid in that little bit more. Buttoned it up again and all works good as new.

Thanks to all who wrote. Without the encouragement, I'd still be afraid to do anything on this car. Little by little I keep reading, trying things and most importantly LEARNING! If the cylinder does fail at a future date, I have great confidence I can do the repair myself, and know how to do the emergency repair to start with a screw driver!

Mr Winky, one last question. When you purchase the cylinder does it always come with the key? Since you purchase by VIN, do I even need the key since my old ones should work right? I realize to get the new one to work, I'd have to program it, but if I don't, I was thinking of hiding it somewhere so if I was to ever lock the keys inside, I could open the door with the one not programmed?

Jerry

[MrWinkey]

The cylinder comes with 2 keys. Like I stated though you can purchase a cylinder keyed to your car(more expensive) or you can purchase one not keyed to the car and it will work with the ignition only.