Pops Racer Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 What is up with this car? Both my 855 and my S60 steering wheel shake when I brake at 30-40mph. I just did a full 302 kit on the wagoon, complete with new calipers, The S60 just got new pads. Is this an inherent problem? My rotors on the 855 seem to have an uneven surface from hub to outside edge. How did that happen? This needs to be fixed, my ol lady can't stand it anymore with the S60. I may end up at my indy, and let him deal with the S60. Annoying and dangerous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 What brand rotors did you use? Are there any other suspension issues with either car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ABDLOCK Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Re-balance your tires Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 Anyone think the brakes need to be re-bedded? I've read, though not experienced, that improper bedding can lead to an uneven surface build up causing symptoms of a warped disc on new equipment. Did this just start happening? Check your tire pressure. The truly cold weather just hit and low tire preasure makes the car do some funky stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magicaljake Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 does it get worse/better if you switch between hard/soft braking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted December 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 does it get worse/better if you switch between hard/soft braking? Tires are at 38 psi, and yes if I just drag 'em, its not so bad. Is there a shim I missed? Balancing was done recently, thius has been happening for a while, I'm just bitching about it now. The S60 has been doing it for a while, Midas machanic said it was warped rotors. How do rotors get warped? S60- stock volvo rotors 855- Zimmerman cross drilled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageVolvo Posted December 8, 2009 Report Share Posted December 8, 2009 What is up with this car? Both my 855 and my S60 steering wheel shake when I brake at 30-40mph. I just did a full 302 kit on the wagoon, complete with new calipers, The S60 just got new pads. Is this an inherent problem? My rotors on the 855 seem to have an uneven surface from hub to outside edge. How did that happen? This needs to be fixed, my ol lady can't stand it anymore with the S60. I may end up at my indy, and let him deal with the S60. Annoying and dangerous. Did you replace the Rotors on the S60 or have them cut?? Does the 850 have the stainless shims in the rear. Did you put the rotor retaining peg in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted December 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 Did you replace the Rotors on the S60 or have them cut?? Does the 850 have the stainless shims in the rear. Did you put the rotor retaining peg in? COuldnt afford to replace S60 rotors, just pads. But why do rotors warp? Can't use those pegs, I have after market rims, no place for it to go. Yes shims in the rear. This is a steering wheel shake not a frame shake. But what do I know? Could be anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fudge_Brownie Posted December 9, 2009 Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 COuldnt afford to replace S60 rotors, just pads. But why do rotors warp? Can't use those pegs, I have after market rims, no place for it to go. Yes shims in the rear. This is a steering wheel shake not a frame shake. But what do I know? Could be anything. Don't hold me to this one, but pretty sure they warp with rapid heat-cooling cycles, and not using the proper 5-star torquing on lugnuts. I'm still pretty sure its a common problem when replacing brake pads that the pad build up on the brake is different and more matched for the previous pad which can cause problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted December 9, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 Don't hold me to this one, but pretty sure they warp with rapid heat-cooling cycles, and not using the proper 5-star torquing on lugnuts. I'm still pretty sure its a common problem when replacing brake pads that the pad build up on the brake is different and more matched for the previous pad which can cause problems. Hmmm, interesting. Is it possible,that over torquing contribute? I talked to the tire guy, and told him 81ft/lbs, and he said no, for liability issue they go to 120ft/lbs or max on the compressor I guess. I hate monkey mechanics, but I can't do everything myself on my cars. It's near impossible to wrench them off and re-torque to proper spec, you gotta stand on the lug wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageVolvo Posted December 9, 2009 Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 COuldnt afford to replace S60 rotors, just pads. But why do rotors warp? Can't use those pegs, I have after market rims, no place for it to go. Yes shims in the rear. This is a steering wheel shake not a frame shake. But what do I know? Could be anything. Yes rotors warp, Secondly they have scour marks that must be resurfaced in order to achieve proper braking performance. Double check that the rotor sits flush with the hub as you don't have a retainer pin. And if your Mechanic did not properly install the Rim/tire it could have bent the rotor. Over tightening a rim can/will warp a rotor. If both brakes were done by the same person that tightened the rims then most likely He messed them up, Bit of a coincidence . that both have the same issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the commissar! Posted December 9, 2009 Report Share Posted December 9, 2009 Hmmm, interesting. Is it possible,that over torquing contribute? I talked to the tire guy, and told him 81ft/lbs, and he said no, for liability issue they go to 120ft/lbs or max on the compressor I guess. I hate monkey mechanics, but I can't do everything myself on my cars. It's near impossible to wrench them off and re-torque to proper spec, you gotta stand on the lug wrench. I had a tire monkey tell me that 120 was the correct torque for ALL alloy rims...dumb a$$. I made him pull all the wheels and hand torque them to the proper torque while I supervised to be sure it was correctly done. My understanding is that it is not the initial torque but the heating and cooling with the rotors at the improper torque that contributes to warping. When the rotors want to expand when heated they can't (at least not evenly) and voila...warped metal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted December 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2009 I had a tire monkey tell me that 120 was the correct torque for ALL alloy rims...dumb a$$. I made him pull all the wheels and hand torque them to the proper torque while I supervised to be sure it was correctly done. My understanding is that it is not the initial torque but the heating and cooling with the rotors at the improper torque that contributes to warping. When the rotors want to expand when heated they can't (at least not evenly) and voila...warped metal! I see, it's kinda sorta maybe like heating metal and then hammering it, its easier to bend when its hot and deforms under pressure, and when it cols it has no where tog again. That is a good possibility for the 60. The 850 maybe something else, I'm pretty sure I re torqued to 81ft/lbs after I got 'em back from townfair gorillas. ANd 850 aint as bad as the 60. Great reply thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJones16 Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 If you had warped rotors you would see a constant vibration at all speeds and not only under braking (I read it as you had vibration under braking) Heres an excellent article - http://www.ipdusa.com/The-Warped-Brake-Disc-and-Other-Myths-of-the-Braking-System/blog-102 Heres what I would do - Take the wheels off - Clean the wheel face that rests against the rotor hat - Take of the rotor and clean the hat - inside and outside - Clean the wheel bearing hub where it rests against the rotor - Re-bleed the whole system X2 - Keep an eye on the Master Cylinder - Re-torque the wheels to proper spec + proper order VADIS Calls for (for the S60) Stage 1 - 20N/M Stage 2 - 140N/M - 104ish Ft Lbs Something else I would consider is - Road Condition + when you brake weight transfer Maybe - Alignment is off - Tires are worn - Tie-rod ends - When going over bumps does the steering wheel move - This is called steering wheel kick Hope this helps... There was something else that I was going to say but I do not remember.. Did I read that this was done at a dealer? - Maybe call them and explain the story, Maybe they will re-look at it Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted December 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 If you had warped rotors you would see a constant vibration at all speeds and not only under braking (I read it as you had vibration under braking) Heres an excellent article - http://www.ipdusa.com/The-Warped-Brake-Disc-and-Other-Myths-of-the-Braking-System/blog-102 Heres what I would do - Take the wheels off - Clean the wheel face that rests against the rotor hat - Take of the rotor and clean the hat - inside and outside - Clean the wheel bearing hub where it rests against the rotor - Re-bleed the whole system X2 - Keep an eye on the Master Cylinder - Re-torque the wheels to proper spec + proper order VADIS Calls for (for the S60) Stage 1 - 20N/M Stage 2 - 140N/M - 104ish Ft Lbs Something else I would consider is - Road Condition + when you brake weight transfer Maybe - Alignment is off - Tires are worn - Tie-rod ends - When going over bumps does the steering wheel move - This is called steering wheel kick Hope this helps... There was something else that I was going to say but I do not remember.. Did I read that this was done at a dealer? - Maybe call them and explain the story, Maybe they will re-look at it Chris Excellent!!!! NOt done at a dealer. no wheel movement at a bump, tires are near new on both cars. Happens on smooth tar, any road condition. Damn, thats quite the list of operation to perform in 20deg in my driveway, and me being a huge pussy 'n all. What are you thinking, debris between components keeping stuff from sitting flush? Thats a good idea, Buuuut, that would be happening to a lot of guys, I'd wager many arent that diligent in keeping those surfaces clean during a driveway install. Flush the system 2x, huh? I thank you for your effort, it took some time to put your post together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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