CJones16 Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Excellent!!!! Not done at a dealer. no wheel movement at a bump, tires are near new on both cars. Happens on smooth tar, any road condition. Damn, that's quite the list of operation to perform in 20deg in my driveway, and me being a huge pussy 'n all. What are you thinking, debris between components keeping stuff from sitting flush? Thats a good idea, Buuuut, that would be happening to a lot of guys, I'd wager many aren't that diligent in keeping those surfaces clean during a driveway install. Flush the system 2x, huh? I thank you for your effort, it took some time to put your post together. Thanks, I know that it might be overkill in cleaning those surfaces but I think anytime you have a vibration and you know the wheels are balanced, I would start with making sure the surfaces are good and rust free and check to make sure the wheels are torqued right I use to work in an Audi dealer and you'd see the techs with wire wheels cleaning off the faces of those surfaces. Side note- Tire shops DO NOT balance the tire to perfect 0.. Within spec is something like .5(weight) off. So I would recommend an indy shop (but doesn't help your vibration under braking) I'd recommend re-bleeding 2x just to get new fluid through the calipers and get the old fluid out (recommended service every 2 years), Since you have bigger calipers I could imagine one bleed would not be enough. I think it took 2-3 times on my car with stock components until it felt right on the pedal and to get the old fluid out Also what is your bleeding procedure? (its most likely different from the two cars) lol ya 20degs here also, if you have a friend with a shop or there is also public shops were you can go rent a hoist on a hourly basis - around here you also get access to tools Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BEJinFBK Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 Two questions: Have you been driving in snow? Do you park outside? If yes, park inside, thaw it out and see whattcha get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparkydog Posted December 11, 2009 Report Share Posted December 11, 2009 I read midas you went there? If you actually had to stand on a lug wrench to get those lugs off they were overtightened. Warped rotors have no impact on the car until you apply the brakes, and using an air gun is just some guy being lazy. I'd take the rotors to a machine shop, not a parts store, and see what they can do with them. The drilled rotors can be machined but it may cost more. Here have a look at this, http://www.raceshopper.com/how_to_install_brakes.shtml Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted December 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 This has been going on way before any snow showed up. Midas put new pads on the 60, and townfair tire did, well, the tires. The calipers are stock, nothing larger. When Bmac and I did my 302 conversion this summer , all the fluid was flushed out and replaced, maybe there is some moisture or and air bubble in the lines. Worth doing agin, I have enough DOT4. I'll keep poking at it, thanks for all the ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergmjs Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 I would say putting the lugs to 120 ftlbs would be a major contributor. Even if all of the lugs are over torqued evenly you still get warp because the lugs are constantly squishing the rotor between the hub and the rim more than they are intended to, this would not be a problem if they are all evenly torqued but when the entire rotor deforms uniformly you still have the caliper holding one section in place, thus creating a warp, however so slight. But when you have hundreds of heating and cooling cycles each one creating a small deformation you eventually get warping, the guys at Town Fair tried to tighten mine to 110 ftlbs and I told them that the spec was 81, the guy looked it up and then tried to tell me that you "lose 10 ftlbs through the ratchet extension." So now i'll never go back to Town Fair, just like I'll never go to Jiffy Lube again because the guy tried to tell me that the "W" in 5W-30 stood for "winter". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Mac Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 This has been going on way before any snow showed up. Midas put new pads on the 60, and townfair tire did, well, the tires. The calipers are stock, nothing larger. When Bmac and I did my 302 conversion this summer , all the fluid was flushed out and replaced, maybe there is some moisture or and air bubble in the lines. Worth doing agin, I have enough DOT4. I'll keep poking at it, thanks for all the ideas. Yeah my 302s are shaking like a sonofagun too. I attributed it to the need for some new calipers? My pistons aren't are smooth as they should be, so I bought some re-mans from FCP. Going to have to wait to paint them because they're frozen in the garage . I get a nasty shake when braking hard as soon as speed gets under 40-50 and there's a "grinding" as well. I have replaced my wheel bearings, regreased the caliper sliders, cleaned the rotors and pads and regreased the pads ( I even bought the Volvo pad grease )...I'm totally stumped. I definitely did your brakes right...I've been doing them since I was 13 :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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