--Aaron-- Posted January 9, 2010 Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 Mmmmm, pretty new cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modus Posted March 5, 2010 Report Share Posted March 5, 2010 Mmmmm, pretty new cables. WOW that's shiny. Or you don't have to use stock terminals.. but rather something like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvowith18psi Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 Take off the intake manifold to do the "Big 3"? LOL no. Simple, 30 bucks in wire, 6x connectors, 1hr-ish of time. Battery Overview B-> Ground. Clean with steel wool, re-attach. Engine -> Chas. Clean best you can with steel wool. Re-attach. Alt. -> Battery. Still undecided on if it gets hot enuff to be worried, But I see 0 signs of heat damage to be worried. Few tie snips. Attach here. Run 2-4ft of wire along here. Attach like so. "Big 3" complete. Now, Bass out. This 1 12L5 Hits so hard, you can not imagine. 900w rms@1ohm Kenwood powering. ( No pics, attached behind box ) Speaking of, anybody know where the factory amp is? Want to remove it and replace with aftermarket one due to factory / aftermarket speaker Ohm variations.... ~Andrew and Yellow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvowith18psi Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 Ah, wanted to add voltages I saw. gained about .4ish V Car @ idle, system, amp on, volume zero. 14.2ishV Car @ idle, System and amp full volume. 13.69-13.73ishV Still get headlight dimming tho, meh, o well. Ohio Generator 200 amp rebuild Incomming soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageVolvo Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 Ah, wanted to add voltages I saw. gained about .4ish V Car @ idle, system, amp on, volume zero. 14.2ishV Car @ idle, System and amp full volume. 13.69-13.73ishV Still get headlight dimming tho, meh, o well. Ohio Generator 200 amp rebuild Incomming soon. Get Hid Headlights. They will cause the Dimming to cease. Lower Amp draw . Even stopped my interior dash lights from flickering. They make 120 amp Oem alternators but 200 sound nice :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvowith18psi Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 Ah yea, shout, I remember pep boys selling 160 RM alts for my old 240, pretty cheap, yet I burned up 3 in a week, ouch! Sticky this IMO. Big 3 is a fun and low skill project, all the advice and pics on here are invalueable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beewerks Posted April 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2010 Get Hid Headlights. They will cause the Dimming to cease. Lower Amp draw . Even stopped my interior dash lights from flickering. They make 120 amp Oem alternators but 200 sound nice I just installed Hid's from DDM Tuning (the 55 watters) and can confirm that the headlight dimming doesn't really happen anymore. My dash lights still like to go (almost) out. Thanks for the how to Volvowith18psi. It's finally getting warmer here in Colorado so I think I'll finally have time to go outside and get this project done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faultywarrior Posted April 21, 2010 Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 My stereo in my SUV has a direct 4 GA. run from the battery to the back. (The back seats are folded down to accommodate the large amount of space my setup needs!) 4 GA. grounding to frame, and I left the stock grounds on battery. (6 GA., so not awful.) I *DO* use a cap. (1/2 Farad) Most people claim they are useless. Well, if I bypass the cap., my lights are nearly OFF when the bass drops. (My entire setup [dedicated components amp and sub amp] runs at 500 RMS now.) I had a different sub (18" PA concert-grade PA Sub) and amp (Rackmount PA amp with DC/AC Inverter power supply) in there before (the whole system was running at 2kW RMS with that), but even with all of my upgrades, the alternator couldn't keep up, and just turning on the amps would result in hearing the alternator strain, and the RPM's would go up by about 250 when the bass dropped to compensate for the voltage drop. (not to mention, I went through 3 batteries in 2 years with this) Ford blows, and does not have a place like we Volvo guys do (iPd), so my stock alternator (110 Amps) was the largest I could get. (Which really sucked, since the fuse for the audio system was rated at 100! ) Hence why I now refer to Ford as Found On Road Dead! (And another reason why I like having a Volvo for my EV build!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvowith18psi Posted April 21, 2010 Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 Beewerks, What kinda setup are you running? If your dash lights are going almost out, you must have some massive juice flowing in the ol' brick... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageVolvo Posted April 21, 2010 Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 I just installed Hid's from DDM Tuning (the 55 watters) and can confirm that the headlight dimming doesn't really happen anymore. My dash lights still like to go (almost) out. Thanks for the how to Volvowith18psi. It's finally getting warmer here in Colorado so I think I'll finally have time to go outside and get this project done! I use the 35 watt Hid kit. And a 1 farad cap. I pull 507 Watts at the amp @ 13.7 volts. With the defroster and wipers and seat warmer is slightly dims. But its worth it :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Is this thread about refreshing our electrical systems or comparing stereos? Money talks, spend it or go home. http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/122616-voltage-issue-after-new-battery-and-alternator/page__view__findpost__p__1738110 Complete, brand new system for meeeeeeeeeee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvowith18psi Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Its really about providing another/additional paths for current to travel given the load a system puts on the electrical system. Volvos came stock with 8 AWG. The Big 3, is just about adding a better conductor ( Most Big 3 upgrades use 1/0 Gage wire ) to help with the strain on the electrical system without going through all of what you did in your post. It takes at most 2 hours to complete and will help smooth out voltages on bass notes. I myself was hesitant to complete it, but finally did and I can stay I have noticed an improvement. We all know electricity takes the path of least resistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave 54 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Agreed^^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo16psi Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Just curious what components do you have h/u amps speakers etc?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvowith18psi Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Me personally, Im running a Kenwood HU, CD +Ipod, 4x 5.25 BA's in the front / rear powered off the HU ( getting distortion at high volume levels, amp needed), Kenwood 9105D @ 1ohm or w/e @ 900w RMS, 1x Kicker L5 12" in a 35hz Sloted Box, Optima Yellow top, Big 3. ( Factory amp removed ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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