betterthingstodo Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 LMS has nothing to do with the turbo, either model can get it just the same. LMS happens when you start the car but run it for just a short time. It gets turned off before the oil pump gets primed, so the pump doesn't deliver enough lubricant, cylinders go dry. Dry cylinders mean no compression. No compression no boom. Only driving onto the ramps is classic situation for LMS, I'd start with adding oil in the cylinders it is so easy to check. Just don't put in more than a teaspoon, save yourself some smoky exhaust. Thanks for the explanation, I don't recall reading that before and thought it had something to do with a flooded state. Any idea long does it takes before the oil pump gets primed to avoid the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bah Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 LMS has nothing to do with the turbo, either model can get it just the same. LMS happens when you start the car but run it for just a short time. It gets turned off before the oil pump gets primed, so the pump doesn't deliver enough lubricant, cylinders go dry. Dry cylinders mean no compression. No compression no boom. Only driving onto the ramps is classic situation for LMS, I'd start with adding oil in the cylinders it is so easy to check. Just don't put in more than a teaspoon, save yourself some smoky exhaust. Thanks man! I had figured it's something stupid like that lol...i had it up on the ramps for a longer period then normal, and normally when i start the car i let it reach full temp...but my dad was impatient *sigh* I will try this first then after i check for fuel...i felt pretty positive about LMS since it cranks nicely, and had 0 codes, and i checked to make sure everything's back to where it should be. On another note about LMS, and what was asked below as well, does the oil pretty much 'fill in' the cracks then gets booming then has oil flow again? I too had always thought it was a flooded state, but, i'm visualizing it much different now... Anyways, i appreciate the quick response. I'll let ya'll know what goes down friday and hopefully not have to make a huge post heh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandiegan Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 My car runs again! Stupid bracket was creating a vacuum leak between manifold and engine. I ditched it because it was too much trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilhuly Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 You are certainly not the first to have that happen. Congrats on victory. My car runs again! Stupid bracket was creating a vacuum leak between manifold and engine. I ditched it because it was too much trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bah Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 lol so it was my stupidity which caused the no-start... Be careful when replacing the lower rad hoses...if theres sh*t down there thats been there for over 100k miles, it can be brittle and corroded. I'm not sure which sensor this is, i'm pretty sure i got it down to 3..TPS, Cam sensor, or crank sensor. This is the one below the distributor cap, and has some sort of bracket holding it in. Well, apparently when i farked up putting the hose on( misrouted and drove me crazy till i realized UNDER the intercooler hose..but w/e) the wiring harness to the sensor, well, the sensor part 'broke'. This is one of the harnesses where you must press in the small metal to release..i'm tired so probably not explaining that proper. Anyways, the SENSOR part is half in the harness, half still on the sensor. The pins were there, but they wouldn't even stay in the sensor. So i put the harness up to it, faux plugged in (it'll stay..but obviously its fubared) , and push the pins in from the other side. viola! start up! and my foot was to the floor so it revved up really quick hehe So anyways...no LMS for the 96...glad to say in the 2 volvos i own , this is the first time i've had no-start condition since i've had them, and it took 10 minutes to fix (ruins your week when the car is 2 hours away and you can't work on it till the weekend =p ). Question is: What is that sensor below the cap? There were a few wirelooms down there from what i could see with the flashlight, but like i said, this one looks to be suspended kinda midair? Given the no-start, no-codes...i was thinking camshaft Position sensor..but truthfully idk. I do know that how i have it will work for the time being, but, i think that sensor has seen its better days... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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