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"Italian Tune-Up"


elfnmagik

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Now I've got zero compression in #2 & #3 cylinders.

I was running it at 3500rpm in 3rd and goosing it up to 4000 off and on for about 4 miles. I started to notice the power fading and as I let off I could tell the power was low. I pulled over and could tell it was idling rough. I shut it off and restarted it, but it was still rough. I limped about a mile home and shut if down. Codes were 1313, 0302, 0303, 0300 for misfire. Changed plugs, cleared codes, pulled the battery cable for 10 minutes to reset ECU and restarted. Same thing, started up but ran rough. Next day, pulled plugs to do compression and #2 & #3 were spotless while others were a little wet. Compression test (cold) was 1-184, 2-zero, 3-zero, 4-175, 5-165 all taking more than 5 cycles to get. Haven't done a wet or a leak test. The engine has 180k and has started buring some oil, but only visible on startup and is about 1qt/OC.

So, does this sound like carbon stuck on the 1# & #2 intake valves, or a blown gasket since it's two adajcent cylinders. Can't really afford to dump her right now, and would lose $$ on parts I've replaced the past couple years. Uggggh.

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what is this "Italian Tune-Up" that supposedly "worked like a charm" but the engine isn't fixed nor runs well...

I don't know what an italian tune up is either lol

you can take off the intake mani and hold your hand over the intake port to find out if it's "bad" intake valves.

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It's an attempt at humor at the remote possibilty of the tune-up having loosened deposits that could now be stuck under the intake valve or in the seat. The not-so-funny prospect is a stuck/burned valve or blown gasket. Any helpful comment?

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burning oil? if so, it's your rings. otherwise, just the head(thankfully)

stuff paper towels/tissue in the exhaust, pressurize the cyl at TDC and see if they pop out. if they do, you know you're looking at exhaust side. if pressure still isn't holding at TDC, you know it's intake. I believe the procedure is something like that.

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I don't know what an italian tune up is either lol

you can take off the intake mani and hold your hand over the intake port to find out if it's "bad" intake valves.

Can't say I'm LOL. Anything to be done prior to any disassembly on the outside chance the valve is stuck?

I would think that a blown gasket wouldn't be able to evacuate air fast enough for there to be completely 0 compression, whereas the valves are intentionally designed to do just that when open.

That's what I was thinking too, but considered the gasket since both adjacent cylinders were toast. Even when turning it over there was no pumping sound at all on 2 & 3 like on the others.
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Can't say I'm LOL. Anything to be done prior to any disassembly on the outside chance the valve is stuck?

That's what I was thinking too, but considered the gasket since both adjacent cylinders were toast. Even when turning it over there was no pumping sound at all on 2 & 3 like on the others.

give a nice strong "whack" to the head? edit: yeah, i wouldn't reccomend this...

I had a valve get stuck on the 850 after it had been sitting for a while. I believe it was an intake valve on cyl #1. After driving it, it cleared up no problems. I just wonder how the valves got stuck open after driving at 3.5-4k?

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I know anything can happen at anytime especially with 180k on the clock, but it's odd that it happened with moderate to strong power and out of the blue. The engine has never given a bit of problem. Always starts right up, idles like a top, never hiccups, etc.

Like I said, it has been burning oil over the past 2 years at a rate of about 1qt/2 months, but no oil leaks or visible coolant leaks. PCV system replaced last year too.

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I know anything can happen at anytime especially with 180k on the clock, but it's odd that it happened with moderate to strong power and out of the blue. The engine has never given a bit of problem. Always starts right up, idles like a top, never hiccups, etc.

Like I said, it has been burning oil over the past 2 years at a rate of about 1qt/2 months, but no oil leaks or visible coolant leaks. PCV system replaced last year too.

1qt/2 months -- so do you notice any oil puffs at start up? when driving the car?

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1qt/2 months -- so do you notice any oil puffs at start up? when driving the car?

'Zactly. Sometimes briefly on startup, and on 'kickdown' when passing, but never really noticed it on normal driving. It has though, for quite some time, been running rich out the tail pipe, especially on cold start up.

my bets are on burnt valve

I'm crying. I wouldn't have thought it possible for it to go such a brief load. Loosing this car will put me in dire straights.

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Can't say I'm LOL. Anything to be done prior to any disassembly on the outside chance the valve is stuck?

sorry man wasn't trying to make light of your situation. seems possible that you could take off the throttle body pipe and hold your hand over the TB. then do a compression test on those cylinders see if you feel any air pushing out.

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I'm considering pulling the head myself to find the problem and will most likely just replace it with a remanufactured one. I'm assuming I'll need a complete gasket set (head, intake, exhaust, cam seals, etc.), head/manifold bolts, and timing belt unless the one I put on about 25k ago is still OK?. Water pump, tensioner, and pulley was replace with the timing belt. Anything else?

Also, I've searched around here and around other forums for some info on the tear down, but didn't really find anything detailed. I have a Haynes but as most know it's vague. Does anyone have a good link for this job or know where I could get a shop manual or just really good advice or tips that would help beyond the instructions in the Haynes?

Thanks in advance.

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