Rsterns Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 I'm going with a burnt valve also, (from similar experience), a head gasket will rarely give zero compression readings, a burnt valve is a sure bet...I would think that if it was carbon buildup, or stuck, you would have some corresponding lifter noise with it....good luck, it all comes down to doing a lot of work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfnmagik Posted January 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 Started the tear down today. Went very smooth with some Kroil soaking and no "Oh, xit" moments. Got the manifolds, serp./timing belts off, and coolant drained. Hopefully will be pulling the head tomorrow. I'm gonna read over that part in the Haynes tonight, but I think even if it's just the gasket I'm gonna go back with a remanufactured head. Will I be reusing just the cams/tappets out of my head? Any additional tips on removing the top half/bottom halves of the head? Is there a simpler way of holding the cams in the top and for applying the downward pressure against the springs prior to reinstall than the makeshift tools described in the Haynes? All other advice/tips welcome too! BTW, I did the work at a very generous VW TDI forum memember's shop who's always working on folks' W's. Here's a link with a few pics. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=2837001#post2837001 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfnmagik Posted January 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 17, 2010 Cue the crickets. Anyways, I got the head apart/off today. Two burned exhaust valves. I'll be getting a head from clearwater. Pics at above link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 Cue the crickets. Anyways, I got the head apart/off today. Two burned exhaust valves. I'll be getting a head from clearwater. Pics at above link. where in clearwater and how much? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted January 18, 2010 Report Share Posted January 18, 2010 where in clearwater and how much? I know there is one at Big 3 silver 850 95 turbo but it does have over 200k miles on it...i think it's like 50$ there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfnmagik Posted January 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2010 Cylinder-Heads.com in Clearwater. Very large remanufacturing outfit. UPS is picking up my head today. Should have it back middle of next week. I'll have about $700 in it when I'm finished, but she should run like a top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfnmagik Posted January 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 Here's a recent dialogue I had with a mechanic who has some experience with the 850. I'm not sure I've got my head wrapped around his method. Also, I've disassembled the manifold and will be cleaning it out this weekend and hopefully will make the Haynes tools for the head installation. Any thoughts/advice on all this is much appreciated! ME: I'm getting ready to reinstall the cams in the top half. ***With the top half laying upside down*** for cam install, my understanding is that the cams are in correct position when the slot on the rear of the intake cam is parallel with and offset slightly below the mating surface of the top half and the exhaust parallel and slightly above. In turn, with the sprockets removed this alignment will place two of the three threaded holes for the intake cam sprocket facing down and parallel to the mating surface and two of the exhaust cam holes parallel and facing up. With this orientation, the timing marks are correct when the sprockets are installed. My questions are how precise does one have to be when getting these parallel prior to installing the cam locking tool? I have a very good eye for these things but wasn't sure just HOW critical. Secondly, I labeled the sprockets Int./Exh. prior to removal and also scribed around the bolts on the sprocket faces, as I understand the holes are slotted and I wanted to reposition them exactly where they were prior to removal. The intake sprocket was pretty much centered, but the exhaust was off center almost completely to one side within the slot. Wouldn’t this have the exhaust valves either slightly advanced or retarded (not sure which)? The car is running rich and I did burn two exhaust valves in 2 & 3 and I'm wondering if this could have contributed. Should I just re-enter it upon reinstall or put back the way it was? HIM: Well the tool on the back of the camshaft would definitely tell you for certain if this is correct or not. Your car does not have the variable valve timing unit. The slotted holes are to correct for machining differences. I would use "the tool" or a similarly suited device to lock the rear cams into place. At that point leave the front bolts slightly loose, and install the belt, where the bolts end up (while the belt is under tension please) is where the front sprockets should be locked down onto. ME: So, are you saying with them just snug, route the belt with hand tension up and over the intake sprocket, adjust to fit the belt then tighten sprocket, then across to the exhaust (under tension), adjust again to fit and tighten, finish routing, release tensioner, rotate crank clockwise twice, then recheck marks? HIM: NO, I am saying fit them loosely. Install the timing belt, finding your "center tooth" on each camshaft, release the tensioner pin, THEN tighten the sprocket bolts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilhuly Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 I hope you're planning on refreshing the new head. You don't want to go through the expenses of the gasket set etc for a 200k mi head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfnmagik Posted January 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 I hope you're planning on refreshing the new head. You don't want to go through the expenses of the gasket set etc for a 200k mi head. It being rebuilt by Clearwater Cylinder Heads as we speak...err, type. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rsterns Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 It being rebuilt by Clearwater Cylinder Heads as we speak...err, type. Don't know if it's been covered yet, but make sure you purchase NEW head bolts, and a torque degree wheel will be real handy to have in getting it right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spanky Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 what is this "Italian Tune-Up" that supposedly "worked like a charm" but the engine isn't fixed nor runs well... From Urban Dictionary "Italian tune up"= a regular tune up performed by Oreo, which includes lubricating the valve guides by squeezing the grease out of some Italian sausage, Canadian bacon and Pepperoni. Plug gapping depends on what boost level your at which corresponds to the depth of either thin, hand tossed, or deep dish pizza crust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yangotang Posted January 22, 2010 Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 From Urban Dictionary "Italian tune up"= a regular tune up performed by Oreo, which includes lubricating the valve guides by squeezing the grease out of some Italian sausage, Canadian bacon and Pepperoni. Plug gapping depends on what boost level your at which corresponds to the depth of either thin, hand tossed, or deep dish pizza crust. :lol: :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elfnmagik Posted January 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2010 Yes, I did get new stretch bolts. Feel free to shed light regarding the reassembly of the head/cams that doesn't seem to jive with what I've posted. Thanks. Also, I will be fabricating the tools Haynes describes so if anyone has made/used them before any advice would be good. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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