HPTDoh Posted January 13, 2010 Report Share Posted January 13, 2010 1994 850T Here are the codes I got from the B1 socket 132 Driver's side air duct temperature sensor open circuit or shorted to 12 volts 134 Passenger's side air duct temperature sensor open circuit or shorted to 12 volts 135 No signal from engine coolant temperature sensor 141 Faulty signal from driver's side temperature selector switch 145 Faulty signal from function selector switch 211 Driver's side damper motor position sensor open circuit or shorted to 12 volts 324 Floor/defrost damper motor active too long 325 Recirculation damper motor active too long 411 Blower fan seized or drawing excessive current 414 Driver's side interior temperature sensor inlet fan seized 417 Passenger's side interior temperature inlet fan seized 418 No control signal to blower fan power stage When I was doing the alternator, I accidentally pulled the pins out of the harness for the coolant temp. sensor. I thought I had them back in the right place, but could that result in all these codes? Also can someone verify for me which color wire is supposed to be in what position? I should clarify that there IS heat near the vents, but it doesn't blow out at all. After about 15 minutes of driving, it's not that uncomfortable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the commissar! Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 1994 850T Here are the codes I got from the B1 socket 132 134 135 141 145 211 324 325 411 414 417 418 When I was doing the alternator, I accidentally pulled the pins out of the harness for the coolant temp. sensor. I thought I had them back in the right place, but could that result in all these codes? Also can someone verify for me which color wire is supposed to be in what position? I should clarify that there IS heat near the vents, but it doesn't blow out at all. After about 15 minutes of driving, it's not that uncomfortable. The heat not blowing is likely unrelated to your other issue... I don't know for sure because I have not looked them up but doubt that all those codes are related to the switched wires...does your temp gauge work properly? If not switch the wires and look again. Write down the codes, clear 'em and see what happens. You should look up those codes for indication of what else is going on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPTDoh Posted January 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 One of the codes is for "faulty signal from ECT." And the temp gauge does seem to be working correctly. I did look up all the codes, and they're all for different things.. how can they ALL go bad at once?? I don't know why I didn't just try to clear the codes, but I'll try that now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted January 14, 2010 Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 did you try reseting and driving it for awhile ? I would bet if you removed the ECT sensor while the car was on or runnning thats where most of those came from . That being said looks more like you have a problem with the dampers in the car. I have that issue on the C70 where one side is hot the other is cold , have to remove the dash to play with that for a day... :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPTDoh Posted January 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2010 I tried to clear the codes, but I forgot to make sure they were cleared (showing 1-1-1) before starting it. Too cold out to try it again so soon haha I had the battery disconnected during the alt. swap, and I'm almost positive I plugged the ECT in before reconnecting it. Can someone verify which color wires are supposed to be on what side of the ECT wire harness? I have yellow plugged into the right side (holding the connector up). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bah Posted January 15, 2010 Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 generally when i see that many codes i think of blower motor resistor going pop or the ECC went pop. But, if theres heat coming out the front vents, its just forced air. Pretty much just means you have the recirc door open. Open the airmix and get up to a high speed and you'll get some decent air..I've been driving ECC-less for 4 months now. if its the old school ECC...93 style one, it might be toast...sniff for electrical burn and yea...i know the 96R's is much nicer looking and seems to be the main one you find on ebay as working =p ask Ozark Lee for specifics of what the ECC has wrong with them, but...i have some pics on here of what could have happened If you clear all the codes, still no fan, check out the ECC and the BMR...i replaceed the BMR but it never fixed it lol....turns out the ECC turded on me (the first time it smoked up the car). 2nd time it smoked up the car the ECC blew up and stopped even lighting up haha Better hope it was just the ECT being unplugged ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPTDoh Posted January 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2010 Yay heat worked today as I drove to school! But not on the way to work. I'm going to try to clear the codes again.. It is the automatic style ECC But can someone verify the wire colors on the ECT??? Edit: When I read the codes again, it JUST had 418: No control signal to blower fan power stage. Cleared it fine, but ONLY that code came back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPTDoh Posted January 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2010 In the course of searching, I found: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/70375-climate-control-woes/ And it was right on. I don't have a new connector yet, but as soon as I pushed it together better, the fan came right on! I'll post the p/n tomorrow if the stealership has it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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