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Solve My Transmission Woes


mojojo

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So, I've been dealing with some issues in one of my 850s and am not sure where to trouble shoot, one thing boggles my mind.

The car is a 95 T5-R, with 367K miles on a rebuilt transmission and engine. The trans was rebuilt during POs ownership and engine by me.

The winter arrow and check engine light constantly flash. I've read the codes and get the PNP switch, 313(?). I have not checked the engine codes.

While the car is first started (hot or cold), it will occasionally stay in first gear and fail to shift to second. This happens maybe 5 of 10 times. On the occasion that it shifts in to second, it will continue to shift throughout the gears like butter, as it should, not failing/missing/slipping in any gear, for the remainder of the time the car is running. Once I repeat the process and have to restart the car (think getting fuel), I have to start all over. Then the car may stick in first, or may shift fine. On the occasion the car sticks in first gear, I can remedy the process by stopping and restarting the car.

Since I've owned the car, I've replaced the PNP switch from my parts car (known good), due to an intermittent no start condition. This was about three months (~2,500 miles) ago and I've failed to have any issues since the replacement. The shifting troubles were present before I replaced the switch.

I've checked that the fluid level is at the appropriate height, and that's the extent of my trouble shooting.

My only question about the issue is that sometimes the car shifts great and sometimes it sticks in first gear. I would think if there was a mechanical issue the problems would be present all the time...

Any thoughts?

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Try:

rowing the shift lever back and forth quickly...

consider replacing (again) PNP

Figure out how to test the winter mode switch. That may be going bad on ya...

On a side note...I thought there was not a rebuild kit for these trannys and wonder how that was done...by the PO?

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So, I've been dealing with some issues in one of my 850s and am not sure where to trouble shoot, one thing boggles my mind.

The car is a 95 T5-R, with 367K miles on a rebuilt transmission and engine. The trans was rebuilt during POs ownership and engine by me.

The winter arrow and check engine light constantly flash. I've read the codes and get the PNP switch, 313(?). I have not checked the engine codes.

While the car is first started (hot or cold), it will occasionally stay in first gear and fail to shift to second. This happens maybe 5 of 10 times. On the occasion that it shifts in to second, it will continue to shift throughout the gears like butter, as it should, not failing/missing/slipping in any gear, for the remainder of the time the car is running. Once I repeat the process and have to restart the car (think getting fuel), I have to start all over. Then the car may stick in first, or may shift fine. On the occasion the car sticks in first gear, I can remedy the process by stopping and restarting the car.

Since I've owned the car, I've replaced the PNP switch from my parts car (known good), due to an intermittent no start condition. This was about three months (~2,500 miles) ago and I've failed to have any issues since the replacement. The shifting troubles were present before I replaced the switch.

I've checked that the fluid level is at the appropriate height, and that's the extent of my trouble shooting.

My only question about the issue is that sometimes the car shifts great and sometimes it sticks in first gear. I would think if there was a mechanical issue the problems would be present all the time...

Any thoughts?

The PNP was aligned good? Reverse light coming on when in R?

Also, I would have rebuilt the used PNP (and I did for my V70) before installing it because the copper contacts inside wear. Mine were at around 120k iirc.

I'm saying this not to castigate you or something, just reenforcing the commisar's thought that the PNP you installed may have gone south again, consistent with the fault you're getting.

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Try:

rowing the shift lever back and forth quickly...

consider replacing (again) PNP

Figure out how to test the winter mode switch. That may be going bad on ya...

On a side note...I thought there was not a rebuild kit for these trannys and wonder how that was done...by the PO?

There are rebuild kits/parts for the AW50-42... Not all that easy to come by though, from my experience. More so, I couldn't find a shop to rebuild my trans locally...

+1 on making sure the PNP switch is correctly aligned. You could also check to make sure the pins are clean in the trans connector.

Follow this link for the "Aut Trans Diag." GREAT info in here. http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/service/850/AutoTransDiagnosis.pdf

Good Luck

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So, I have three 850s with the 2.3 Turbo engine (two T5-Rs and one T5). One is a complete parts car that I've owned the past few years, and bought it running, in good order with no issues what so ever at the time it became my 'parts' car. I purchased my first T5-R with a blown head gasket. Once I got the T5-R back on the road, I experienced the transmission shifting issues, and an intermittent no-start issue. I traced the issue down to the PNP switch. At that point I used my known good switch from my parts car, as the donor part. I aligned the switch using a method of having the selector in reverse, and finding the points in which the backup lights came on and then went off. Then I tightened the switch approximately centered between those two points. Since the switch was replaced, I have not encountered the no-start issue, but the shifting issue remains.

I can only assume the transmission was rebuilt because of one thing (the PO didn't have a copy of the receipt but did mention a shop), the excessive orange RTV between transmission cases.

There are rebuild kits/parts for the AW50-42... Not all that easy to come by though, from my experience. More so, I couldn't find a shop to rebuild my trans locally...

+1 on making sure the PNP switch is correctly aligned. You could also check to make sure the pins are clean in the trans connector.

Follow this link for the "Aut Trans Diag." GREAT info in here. http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/tech/service/850/AutoTransDiagnosis.pdf

Good Luck

Sorry for the multiple posts. I did check that the pins were free of any corrosion while replacing the switch. I also applied di-electric grease to the connector during installation of the PNP switch.

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Sorry for the multiple posts. I did check that the pins were free of any corrosion while replacing the switch. I also applied di-electric grease to the connector during installation of the PNP switch.

Not the external connector/pins, the internal contacts should be checked and if need be, filed/trimmed and re-grease.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=81904

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What codes do you have in A1 & A2?

When is the last time you changed the trans fluid? Is there any connection to the hanging 1st gear and the flashing arrow/cel?

I wouldn't completly rule out the PNP yet...

I haven't changed trans fluid, fluid looks clean and proper level, so I hadn't bothered.

The arrow is always flashing, as well as check engine. If I disconnect the battery overnight and connect the next morning, the arrow flashes instantly upon start up.

Not the external connector/pins, the internal contacts should be checked and if need be, filed/trimmed and re-grease.

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php?showtopic=81904

I did not service this switch, because it came from a running vehicle. I did however service the switch I replaced, and it seemed obvious that it would have some issue(s) based on the condition of the copper contacts - in some areas it appeared that they were not contacting sufficiently.

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What codes do you have in A1 & A2?

When is the last time you changed the trans fluid? Is there any connection to the hanging 1st gear and the flashing arrow/cel?

I wouldn't completly rule out the PNP yet...

Codes from A2: 535, 311

Codes from A1: 232, 114

As a side note, I noticed that pulling codes from A1, once the probe was installed, the LED remains lit, though dim enough to still decipher codes. Neither of my other cars do this. Suppose it has anything to do with the constant flashing of the service engine light?

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What codes do you have in A1 & A2?

When is the last time you changed the trans fluid? Is there any connection to the hanging 1st gear and the flashing arrow/cel?

I wouldn't completly rule out the PNP yet...

Codes from A2: 535, 311

Codes from A1: 232, 114

As a side note, I noticed that pulling codes from A1, once the probe was installed, the LED remains lit, though dim enough to still decipher codes. Neither of my other cars do this. Suppose it has anything to do with the constant flashing of the service engine light?

I suppose it would be good now to note that I do have an intermittent speedometer. I have not really had an inspiration to hunt this down on this car, until reading the FSM's description of how the TCM calculates shift points. I suppose that because my speedo is intermittent that it may coincide with the sticking first gear.

TCM receives input signals from various components to

determine transaxle shift points and torque converter lock-up.

Components consist of mode selector switch, throttle position sensor,

engine speed (RPM) sensor, vehicle speed sensor, gear position sensor,

transaxle oil temperature sensor, brake switch and kickdown switch.

The speedo works about 10% of the time, usually when the car is cold, and can sometimes begin to work intermittently after hitting a bump, or turning a hard left.

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Have you tried to trouble shoot the codes you pulled? Specifically the A2-311 and A1-232? Hope the below helps, it is from the AUTOTRANSDIAGNOIS link provided above... If I'm not mistaken, your 1995, uses the speed sensor in the transmission for the speedo... The VSS was not used on 96 and later cars where the Speedo came from ABS info.

"

DTC 232/P0500: SPEEDOMETER SIGNAL MISSING

1) Speedometer provides vehicle speed information to TCM. TCM

uses signal to determine whether transmission changes gear at correct

speeds. If DTC 232 is set, use scan tool and compare vehicle speed

with speedometer. If reading is correct, go to step 3). If reading is

incorrect, check for speedometer malfunction. See appropriate

INSTRUMENT PANELS article in ACCESSORIES & EQUIPMENT. If speedometer

is okay, check for an open circuit or short to voltage or ground in

signal wiring. Repair as necessary. If wiring is okay, go to next

step.

2) Ensure ignition is off. Connect measuring unit to TCM.

Shift transmission to "N" position. Raise and support front of

vehicle. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between measuring unit

terminals No. 20 and 48. Block one front wheel and spin other wheel

rapidly. If voltmeter reads 4-7 volts, DTC was set because of poor

terminal contact at TCM or speedometer connector. If voltmeter does

not read 4-7 volts, replace speedometer.

3) Ensure ignition is off. Check that Vehicle Speed Sensor

(VSS) is securely fastened to transmission. Ensure there is no dirt

between sensor and mating surfaces. Repair as necessary. If VSS is

okay, ensure all grounds are clean and tight. Repair as necessary."

DTC 114: MODE SELECTOR SWITCH CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION

1) Ensure ignition is off. Using a screwdriver, carefully pry

off selector switch from console. Check wires at back of switch for

poor terminal contact. Repair as necessary. If terminal contact is

okay, check Black ground wire for good terminal contact. Repair as

necessary. If Black ground wire is okay, go to next step.

2) Turn ignition on. Connect voltmeter between selector

switch Brown/Green and Black wires. If about 11 volts are present, go

to step 4). If zero voltage is present, go to next step. If battery

voltage is present, check Brown/Green wire for a short circuit to

voltage.

3) Check TCM connector for poor terminal contact. Repair as

necessary. If TCM connector is okay, check for an open circuit in

Brown/Green wire.

4) Connect voltmeter between selector switch Green/Orange and

Black wires. If about 11 volts are present, go to step 6). If zero

voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is present,

check Green/Orange wire for a short circuit to voltage.

5) Check TCM connector for poor terminal contact. Repair as

necessary. If TCM connector is okay, check for an open circuit in

Green/Orange wire.

6) Turn ignition off. Switch selector to position "S".

Connect ohmmeter between Brown/Green and Black wires. Switch selector

to position "E". Connect ohmmeter between Green/Orange and Black

wires. If ohmmeter does not read zero ohms in both cases, replace

driving mode selector module. If ohmmeter reads zero ohms, DTC was set

because of poor terminal contact in mode selector connector."

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my exact thoughts lol that happened on my first volvo, had to swap transmissions

I would see this clear as day, but the thing that gets me is it's intermittent. If there was a mechanical failure, I would think the problem would be all the time.

I'm going to look at it this weekend, but was trying to pick some more brains, thinking whether the intermittent speedo had anything to do with the intermittent tranny issues. Reading the manual it seems to me like they could go hand in hand.

It may be worthy to note that once the codes are cleared, and the shift arrow is not lit, the winter mode button functions properly, though it does not take long for the light to come back. As well, the sport and economy modes both are functional.

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