B Mac Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 +1 for Jan. If you're getting hard boost at part throttle your wastegate actuator is definitely not working properly right now. It's aftermarket right? Is it jammed up against something? I had to mess with my Garrett one a little bit to make sure it wasn't touching anything... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dongle Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 Well, there's no 16-20lb spring, so this means you either have the 14-18lb spring or the 19-24lb spring. Have you tried something more appropriate for running ~20psi, like the 10-15lb spring? If you're using that monster spring I don't think that the TCV its going to do much when it opens up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROjectBEWST Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 Well, there's no 16-20lb spring, so this means you either have the 14-18lb spring or the 19-24lb spring. Have you tried something more appropriate for running ~20psi, like the 10-15lb spring? If you're using that monster spring I don't think that the TCV its going to do much when it opens up. +1 You were running so incredibly lean I am VERY suprised it survived.. Thank volvo jesus for that one. :pizza: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyIron Posted January 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 Well, there's no 16-20lb spring, so this means you either have the 14-18lb spring or the 19-24lb spring. Have you tried something more appropriate for running ~20psi, like the 10-15lb spring? If you're using that monster spring I don't think that the TCV its going to do much when it opens up. You are correct. I previously had the 19-24lb. spring and downgraded to the 14-18. I did not have as much time to track problems down as I would have liked as my wifes Town & Country did not want to start and I traced it down to a bad fuel pump relay. Back to my volvo, what I did find was an oily MAF sensor, and a missing cap off my vac tree. I am still looking further b/c I still have not found the hose that feeds to my boost gauge. Hoepfully more answers tomorrow. In the meantime, here is a video of one of the pulls. This was the 2nd of 3. dyno pull2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyIron Posted January 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 Well, I found a vacum hose off the bottom of the turbo below the CBV had popped off and after fixing that, my AFR's went back to normal and my boost gauge worked again. So I drove it around again and I get a check engine light for P0101 and P0171 which are MAF sensor performance issues and engine too lean WTF? I know I wasn't lean b/c during that time my Wideband was showing between 12-14. I also was still misfiring so I pulled the car back in and changed the plugs (pulled the NGK R's and put OEM volvo in gapped tight to .025, cleaned the MAF sensor and re-assembled. Went back for another run and my check engine light did not come back on, but it misfires BAD at barely 5psi and 2500rpm????? WTF??? Any and all help is greatly appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98 s70 t5m Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 Well, I found a vacum hose off the bottom of the turbo below the CBV had popped off and after fixing that, my AFR's went back to normal and my boost gauge worked again. So I drove it around again and I get a check engine light for P0101 and P0171 which are MAF sensor performance issues and engine too lean WTF? I know I wasn't lean b/c during that time my Wideband was showing between 12-14. I also was still misfiring so I pulled the car back in and changed the plugs (pulled the NGK R's and put OEM volvo in gapped tight to .025, cleaned the MAF sensor and re-assembled. Went back for another run and my check engine light did not come back on, but it misfires BAD at barely 5psi and 2500rpm????? WTF??? Any and all help is greatly appreciated Cap? Rotor? wires? Too small spark plug gap? (doesn't make sense to me} I have a used cap/rotor/plug wires that you are welcome to try out. They all worked fine on my car, but I replaced them for the 120k service. pm me if that is of interest to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 Well, I found a vacum hose off the bottom of the turbo below the CBV had popped off and after fixing that, my AFR's went back to normal and my boost gauge worked again. So I drove it around again and I get a check engine light for P0101 and P0171 which are MAF sensor performance issues and engine too lean WTF? I know I wasn't lean b/c during that time my Wideband was showing between 12-14. I also was still misfiring so I pulled the car back in and changed the plugs (pulled the NGK R's and put OEM volvo in gapped tight to .025, cleaned the MAF sensor and re-assembled. Went back for another run and my check engine light did not come back on, but it misfires BAD at barely 5psi and 2500rpm????? WTF??? Any and all help is greatly appreciated You should be able to run at least .029" gap on OEM plugs, esp. at such low boost levels. IF swappign plugs made no difference, then you do need to check your cap, rotor wires as suggested. Do you have another MAF you can try? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyIron Posted January 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 You should be able to run at least .029" gap on OEM plugs, esp. at such low boost levels. IF swappign plugs made no difference, then you do need to check your cap, rotor wires as suggested. Do you have another MAF you can try? No, I don't have another MAF, and I just found out that they are $150.00. I guess more money may be the solution. For what it is worth, when it was running leaner on the dyno, misfires did not occur until it hit almost 30 psi of boost. So, by putting the hose back on and correcting the lean condition it misfires more??? That is why I do not believe it is the cap, rotor, or wires. I am leaning more towards a bad MAF though. Side note - just went out and drove it again for about 5 miles. no check engine light, but A/F ratios were running 12-14 under no boost and dropped to 10 and stayed there whenever in boost. Car still misfiring between 6-8 psi snd 2500-2750 rpms -I never went over that. Leading me more and more to MAF sensor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 24, 2010 Report Share Posted January 24, 2010 No, I don't have another MAF, and I just found out that they are $150.00. I guess more money may be the solution. For what it is worth, when it was running leaner on the dyno, misfires did not occur until it hit almost 30 psi of boost. So, by putting the hose back on and correcting the lean condition it misfires more??? That is why I do not believe it is the cap, rotor, or wires. I am leaning more towards a bad MAF though. Side note - just went out and drove it again for about 5 miles. no check engine light, but A/F ratios were running 12-14 under no boost and dropped to 10 and stayed there whenever in boost. Car still misfiring between 6-8 psi snd 2500-2750 rpms -I never went over that. Leading me more and more to MAF sensor MAF's are all the same for x70, 850, NA or Turbo. get a used one for 30-40bucks for test purposes. If it's still misfiring, I'd try the NGK's again. Glad to hear the over boost issue has been discovered, though. Did you clamp the line on the compressor this time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dongle Posted January 25, 2010 Report Share Posted January 25, 2010 Just make sure you don't get a '99-'00 MAF. They are in fact different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyIron Posted January 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Just make sure you don't get a '99-'00 MAF. They are in fact different. Changed out my MAF sensor in 5 minutes in 20 degree temp with a 25 mph wind up my Ars. Not bat, but I am still getting a "pending" code on my scanner of P0171 which is lean conditions, even though no codes are stored and my A/F ratio is perfect according to my wideband. Still misfiring above 2500 and 8psi of boost. i cleaned my NGK R's up and they go back in tomorrow. Any further suggestions? I will be checking the capo & rotor tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98 s70 t5m Posted January 26, 2010 Report Share Posted January 26, 2010 Changed out my MAF sensor in 5 minutes in 20 degree temp with a 25 mph wind up my Ars. Not bat, but I am still getting a "pending" code on my scanner of P0171 which is lean conditions, even though no codes are stored and my A/F ratio is perfect according to my wideband. Still misfiring above 2500 and 8psi of boost. i cleaned my NGK R's up and they go back in tomorrow. Any further suggestions? I will be checking the capo & rotor tomorrow. You could Ohm out your plug wires. They should be around 1k, with the shorter wire less and the longer wires more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeavyIron Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 First off, thanks to Hussein for his endless wealth of advice and knowledge. Also Thanks to Sladethesleeper for his help. After talking to Hussein, I went back over each vac hose with a fine tooth comb, and added clamps where there were none and tightened the others. I checked my fuel pressure which came back as between 38-42psi, so no issues there. I also put back my NGK-R plugs. One thing the Hussein told me to check was the o-ring seal on the vac tree. Over time that seal can harden. I thought it was supposed to be plastic- turned out it was rubber that had hardened into plastic. So that seal will be replaced. On the way home, BIG improvements were noticed. I am still being easy on it, but I can run 2/3 throttle and all the way to 18psi before misfire. If I just floor the throttle it spools stupid fast and misfires, but if I roll into the boost it holds 18psi and 30-90 goes by in no time. I am leaning towards my cap and rotor as being the cause for my high boost misfire. That is what took out my head gasket last time, so I will be very cautious until I KNOW it is fixed. AFR's also were looking good with 11-12 under boost and 13.-15.5 under cruise/ light boost/ and 14.5-16.0 off throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 First off, thanks to Hussein for his endless wealth of advice and knowledge. Also Thanks to Sladethesleeper for his help. After talking to Hussein, I went back over each vac hose with a fine tooth comb, and added clamps where there were none and tightened the others. I checked my fuel pressure which came back as between 38-42psi, so no issues there. I also put back my NGK-R plugs. One thing the Hussein told me to check was the o-ring seal on the vac tree. Over time that seal can harden. I thought it was supposed to be plastic- turned out it was rubber that had hardened into plastic. So that seal will be replaced. On the way home, BIG improvements were noticed. I am still being easy on it, but I can run 2/3 throttle and all the way to 18psi before misfire. If I just floor the throttle it spools stupid fast and misfires, but if I roll into the boost it holds 18psi and 30-90 goes by in no time. I am leaning towards my cap and rotor as being the cause for my high boost misfire. That is what took out my head gasket last time, so I will be very cautious until I KNOW it is fixed. AFR's also were looking good with 11-12 under boost and 13.-15.5 under cruise/ light boost/ and 14.5-16.0 off throttle. I forgot to ask what injector/flow rate the MTE tune specifies... You may want to get a EuroSpec Sport higher rate FPR (3.5bar, or adjustable).... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JHEIII874T5M Posted January 27, 2010 Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Gap the plugs down if you keep blowing out spark, could go .20 and still be fine. Definitely get a new cap & rotor. Pull the ECU or disconnect the battery to reset the ECU (I usually do it overnight and just reconnect the battery/reinsert the ECU when I wake up). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.