Turbo Shaft Play, Possible Blown Turbo

[Bah]

Just got in from replacing the plugs and front o2 sensor.

No more black smoke, it's blue now and not terrible, but noticeable. No more sputtering.

Right when it's about to boost, it falls flat on it's face. I could drive around no problem just putting around. It doesnt seem to be spooling at all. I'll check all the vac lines, etc. when I have time.

I didn't really have any intentions of ever driving the car, but it's too pretty to tear apart, and the engine seems so quiet. We'll see.

=0 How hard was the front O2 sensor one handed?

I've had black smoke from the O2 sensor just being so crummed up, but it depended on the temperature outside. I've noticed the longer you sit on it and let the O2 go, the worst it gets (which makes no sense cause when it throws the code, it ignores the O2 readings right?)

If i had to guess i'd say massive leak (checked plug gap right?) and just leaky valve stems on top of it all? orrr just turbo death time :(

[Matty Moo]

=0 How hard was the front O2 sensor one handed?

I've had black smoke from the O2 sensor just being so crummed up, but it depended on the temperature outside. I've noticed the longer you sit on it and let the O2 go, the worst it gets (which makes no sense cause when it throws the code, it ignores the O2 readings right?)

If i had to guess i'd say massive leak (checked plug gap right?) and just leaky valve stems on top of it all? orrr just turbo death time

Not only one handed, but left handed at that. Not the most fun, but I've learned to adapt.

New plugs, gapped to perfection.

As for the turbo, my platinum wagon makes that nice whirring noise when the turbo spools up. This one does nothing but smoke, not spool up and almost make a sound like extreme spark knock. After checking it out in the garage, that noise is coming from the turbo. Not what I wanted, but more or less what I was expecting. The car was bought in non-running condition, so no big deal.

Now, I face an issue. I'm dealing with a car that has 238k on it. I can get a used 13g and toss it on. Then I may have a turbo that works, but what if the valve seals are leaky too. I still have a car that blows oil, is 12 years old with a ton of miles on it. Then the time=money equation, etc.

[rsmigel]

Now, I face an issue. I'm dealing with a car that has 238k on it. I can get a used 13g and toss it on. Then I may have a turbo that works, but what if the valve seals are leaky too. I still have a car that blows oil, is 12 years old with a ton of miles on it. Then the time=money equation, etc.

Since your compression is OK, your valve seals can't be that bad. Maybe a little smoke at start-up but I could live with that. I'd check the two vacuum lines going to the turbo and the line going to the bottom of the intake pipe. Also check the two vacuum lines going to the front/driver's side of the intake manifold. And check the connection of the pressurized turbo line going to the top of the intercooler. When that big pipe is loose, the car drives exactly like you mentioned (I've experienced it!)

[matt b]

Crazy noise! Sounds like with that many miles it may be dying anyway!

You can find used turbos for as little as $75 on Ebay, 13G's aren't worth much. Toss it in and see what happens. Props to you for doing that much to the car, with one hand! Not sure I could do 1/3 of what you've done and I'be worn casts on my right hand a few times before.

[rsmigel]

I can't find a complete turbo for $75 but you should be able to find a tight, non-rebuilt 13G for $175-$200 on the various Volvo forums. A clean rebuilt Ebay unit runs $400 and up. If you're handy, pick up a loose one for $125-$150 and add $75 to rebuild it yourself.

[whoa]

Since your compression is OK, your valve seals can't be that bad. Maybe a little smoke at start-up but I could live with that. I'd check the two vacuum lines going to the turbo and the line going to the bottom of the intake pipe. Also check the two vacuum lines going to the front/driver's side of the intake manifold. And check the connection of the pressurized turbo line going to the top of the intercooler. When that big pipe is loose, the car drives exactly like you mentioned (I've experienced it!)

Valve stem seals don't affect compression, because compression is what is produced in the cylinder when the valves are closed. They will cause oil consumption, smelly exhaust, high hydrocarbons in smog tests, and noticeable blue smoke in certain circumstances, and can apparently lead to shortened valve and catalytic converter life-span. What's more, I may be wrong, but I strongly suspect that they are responsible for a lot of the symptoms that people on these forums tend to attribute to clogged PCV systems: smoke out of the dipstick and oil filler cap, lack of vacuum at the filler cap, oil leaks. I had those symptoms, replaced the PCV system (which didn't look too bad apart from a clogged PTC nipple), and didn't notice a change: still some smoke out of the dipstick and the filler cap (which was never very dramatic to begin with), definitely no vacuum, oil still seeping out of the filler cap... Then I replaced the valve stem seals, and no more of that at all.

Mark

[rsmigel]

Yes, I was thinking valve SEATS vs. valve seals. My bad.

But if you're not getting a big plume of blue smoke at start-up, then I suspect it is not the valve seals.

Since you had "LOTS" of oil in the intercooler hoses, I would remove the fresh air hose going to the turbo and the high pressure hose going from the turbo and clean them thoroughly. Then reconnect the hoses and verify that you're still getting negative pressure at the dipstick (PCV is functioning).

Drive the car some and if you later find that you have oil in the inlet hose, then there is a problem with your PCV system. If you have oil in the high pressure line AND the inlet hose is clean, then you have a problem with the turbo.