Svenska Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 I've only ever replaced conventional struts on my 850s, I've never had to do a strut "insert" before. I cannot find any good information on how to do this. Does the insert just pull out easily from the whole tower? It's been in there for 19 years. Alldatadiy.com is useless explaining the removal. Can anyone point me to a tutorial? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Fat Tigers Posted March 23, 2010 Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=145503 Autozone rents (free) the same spring compressor that IPD sells. It's a good one, I recommend it. For reference: IPDusa.com Autozone.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest svenska Posted March 23, 2010 Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 THANKS! I knew someone had to have a write-up. Two questions though, this 240 has no bolt(s) holding the brake fluid hoses/lines onto it. It appears to be welded onto the tower. Secondly, I can't see how the whole unit tips forward to clear the fender to remove the insert. It seems the coil would have to be compressed to full collapse stage. And another question, this gland nut is FROZEN! it's 19 years old. PB B'laster isn't touching this thing. You mentioned using heat... that concerns me since it is intense heat so close to a pressurized cylinder - the shock. I've never seen it written anywhere that it's permissible to use heat. These Bilsteins actually have a sticker that says "DO NOT SUBJECT TO HEAT"... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Svenska Posted March 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 Never mind. I figured it out. That rake hose bolt is on the chassis, I was looking on the strut tower for it. I got the old cartridge out and the new one in. The only question remaining is how tight do you make the center captive/nyloc nut on the shock shaft? I can't use my impact gun, it spins the shock piston around. I'm turning it byhand and using a 7mm allen key as a counterhold. Do I just keep tightening it with the suspension loaded/control arm raised? Tighten it until it stops??? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Three Fat Tigers Posted March 23, 2010 Report Share Posted March 23, 2010 I'm turning it byhand and using a 7mm allen key as a counterhold. Do I just keep tightening it with the suspension loaded/control arm raised? Tighten it until it stops??? Thanks. Basically that's it. On the impact, you might try using small bursts. Also, with the wheel off the ground, you can reach in and grab the center shaft by hand or with a rubber strap wrench, that would be enough the allow the impact to tighten it. Otherwise, I use a modified hand wrench as indicated in that link above. And to quote that link some more: I usually install the new top nut on the old shock cartridge a few times to free it up a little (if the thread is not he same I use the new cartridge for this), then I make certain the tapered mating areas of the shock and mount are absolutely oil free (brake/carb cleaner), I also put oil on the threads of the nut and just turn it down a few turns, not engaging the locking part of the nut, before releasing the spring compressor. Then after the assembly is in the car, and the weight of the car is back on the spring, I back off the nut so that once I apply the impact wrench, it has a chance to reach a high rotational speed before the locking part engages, this I've found works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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