FAST850R Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Hi, I purchased an OBD II code reader and I checked the codes that I have. 4 codes came up, P0102 MAF or VAF A circuit low input P0172 Systen too rich(bank 1) P0440 EVAP Emission Control System Malfunction P0715 input/Turbine Speed Sensor A circuit Malfunction I guess if I replace the MAF, it will clear those codes except P0715..? Please give me some advice, such as what to check, and replace. Thank you in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 as far as the maf code u can try spraying some maf cleaner but thats only going to be a band aid if it helps at all....id budget in a new one if i were you for the rich code check the rubber elbow on the passenger side of the intake manifold....its notorious for causing that code Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted March 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 as far as the maf code u can try spraying some maf cleaner but thats only going to be a band aid if it helps at all....id budget in a new one if i were you for the rich code check the rubber elbow on the passenger side of the intake manifold....its notorious for causing that code Thank you for the reply. I actually did use electric cleaner on the MAF, but I guess it didn't help. I will try to check in local junk yards to find it....or should I just buy a new one? The rubber elbow you are talking about is the one that close to thermostat housing? The one that kind of hard to see without a fresh light (one of the pcv system hoses)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbrightside2009 Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Thank you for the reply. I actually did use electric cleaner on the MAF, but I guess it didn't help. I will try to check in local junk yards to find it....or should I just buy a new one? The rubber elbow you are talking about is the one that close to thermostat housing? The one that kind of hard to see without a fresh light (one of the pcv system hoses)? you can buy reman for about $160 by cardone, it can be kinda hard to see, it is right behind the p/s pump on the left side of the intake manifold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted March 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 you can buy reman for about $160 by cardone, it can be kinda hard to see, it is right behind the p/s pump on the left side of the intake manifold. I found after market MAF on ebay for $65. What do you think? Yeah, I know which hose you are talking about....shoot, if that thing is disconnected, I have to remove intake manifold....PIA job... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbrightside2009 Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 I found after market MAF on ebay for $65. What do you think? Yeah, I know which hose you are talking about....shoot, if that thing is disconnected, I have to remove intake manifold....PIA job... what brand is it? i actually had a shop fix my hose awhile back, i heard some guys did it with some long needle nose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted March 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 what brand is it? i actually had a shop fix my hose awhile back, i heard some guys did it with some long needle nose. There are bunch of brands, like Crespo Parts, Chandler Motorsports, and used OEM ones. I replaced all the pcv system...I can check the hose whether it's loose or not..if it's loose, then I have to remove the intake manifold. I kind of think that MAF related to other codes...except the speed meter sensor...no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrbrightside2009 Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 There are bunch of brands, like Crespo Parts, Chandler Motorsports, and used OEM ones. I replaced all the pcv system...I can check the hose whether it's loose or not..if it's loose, then I have to remove the intake manifold. I kind of think that MAF related to other codes...except the speed meter sensor...no? well i wouldn't buy a maf on ebay unless it had a warranty, oem is always good, i have a reman cardone in my car and its been fine from autozone for $160. when my maf went i only had the p0102 code, p0172 is most likely a vacuum leak, could be that hose, the P0440 could be as easy as your gas cap is not on correctly or tight, try taking it off and putting it back on , then clear the code, P0715 not sure what that is related to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted March 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 well i wouldn't buy a maf on ebay unless it had a warranty, oem is always good, i have a reman cardone in my car and its been fine from autozone for $160. when my maf went i only had the p0102 code, p0172 is most likely a vacuum leak, could be that hose, the P0440 could be as easy as your gas cap is not on correctly or tight, try taking it off and putting it back on , then clear the code, P0715 not sure what that is related to. Thank you for the reply. I guess I have to buy OEM one then...well, I will start checking the vacuum hose first, clean the MAF one more time, check the gas cap, check spark plugs, wires, cap&rotor, and flush the tranny fluid. Lets see from there... P0440...the gas cap was replaced by PO so it should be good. If it's not the gas cap, it can be FPR, or other fuel related parts, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jablackburn Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Ahh! Don't use aftermarket electrical parts, especially the MAF. A used one would be a perfectly acceptable route if you can find one. As far as the P0440, pull out the battery & tray and look at the J-hose on the EVAP canister in front of the left tire. That's the most common cause, before suspecting the purge valve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted March 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 Ahh! Don't use aftermarket electrical parts, especially the MAF. A used one would be a perfectly acceptable route if you can find one. As far as the P0440, pull out the battery & tray and look at the J-hose on the EVAP canister in front of the left tire. That's the most common cause, before suspecting the purge valve. Thank you for the advice. I will go and try to find a MAF at local junk yards. One question though, I just found a PDF file that shows how to check MAF with a volt meter. I have Sperry DM-4100A meter so I just tested the MAF. The PDF file shows that with TEMP 68 degree, I should get 2-3k ohm, and with 32 degree, I should get 4-7k ohm. First, I set the meter with 2k ohm, and tested the MAF, I got nothing. I set the meter to 200 ohm, nothing. I set it to the lowest set, which is an arrow with + mark, then I got .742 ohm from MAF... Did I test it in the right way? This is the MAF testing pdf file. I will check the J-hose either tomorrow or Sunday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flaco Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 You gotta be kidding, that PDF says TOYOTA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jablackburn Posted March 25, 2010 Report Share Posted March 25, 2010 I've never tried testing one, so I do not know the values you're going to expect for a Volvo. Generally, an ohm-test works with an coolant temp sensor or crankshaft sensor. This is the basic test...If your car is running crappy with the MAF plugged in, unplug it and see if the idle/running smooths out. The car will be running estimating the amount of fuel it needs based on an average amount of airflow. If that makes it run better, then your MAF is shot and needs to be replaced. If it's running OK otherwise, it could just be throwing a code caused by a vacuum and/or boost leak. I've seen it happen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted March 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 I've never tried testing one, so I do not know the values you're going to expect for a Volvo. Generally, an ohm-test works with an coolant temp sensor or crankshaft sensor. This is the basic test...If your car is running crappy with the MAF plugged in, unplug it and see if the idle/running smooths out. The car will be running estimating the amount of fuel it needs based on an average amount of airflow. If that makes it run better, then your MAF is shot and needs to be replaced. If it's running OK otherwise, it could just be throwing a code caused by a vacuum and/or boost leak. I've seen it happen. I will try it. The car runs fine and idle smooth, but I will try to run it with unplugging the MAF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilhuly Posted March 26, 2010 Report Share Posted March 26, 2010 I just saw the 715 last weekend on my old Mitsubishi my brother has now. It is a speed sensor on the transmission. Are experiencing some flaky shifting? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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