Cv Boot Replacement Vs. New Axles...

[hgray14]

So, here is my question about the '93 and the '95 turbo. How long can I drive with torn boots and what will the signs be that the axles are ready to be replaced?

I already posted the question of why not replace the axle (with raxles, of course) instead of just the CV boot since it takes the same amount of time (if not slightly less) to swap out axles. Yes, the axles cost more than the boots but they also take less work and I like the idea of playing it safe just in case a bunch of crap has gotten up in there while driving around with the torn boot(s). I got back the answer I expected which was, "ya, as long as you have to tear it down that far just replace the axles and be done with it."

The axles I am speaking of are in all three cars.

1993 850 GLT has 140K and has one ripped boot. The boot has been ripped for a long time so I would rather replace the axle and play it safe.

1995 850 Turbo (with IPD upgrades) has 140K and two ripped boots. I just discovered them but being that I drive the car hard I have been wanting to swap out axles for a while.

1995 850 T-5R with 200K has been sitting in the yard for 5 years...so I kind of want to swap out the axles just to play it safe. I haven't had it up in the air yet but I am guessing the boots are old and brittle and the guy who is going to replace my steering rack has offered to swap in axles for pretty cheap while he has the car up in the air.

I assume I will start to hear or feel grinding before they fail completely, right? I figured I will buy the axles and will keep them around until the current axles fail. That way I get the most miles out of what is in there and don't put unnecessary miles on the new axles.

What do you think?

thanks again for all your advice.

[ozzimark]

It takes more time to change the boots. The entire procedure is identical, except with replacing the boot, you have to take apart the old CV joint, clean it up, check for excessive wear, repack with grease and put a new boot on. With a new axle, you just take the old one out and throw the new one in.

[hgray14]

That is what I was thinking. I have replaced axles but never CV boots but it sure seemed like it would be more time for the CV boots.

So here is the question; How do I know when my axles need to be replaced? Is it the "clunking" sound that I hear people talking about? I assume it won't just "bang" - break on me...I will get some warnings, right?

thanks

[cn90]

At 100K miles, I had a torn boot.

Replacing the boot is straightforward. I wrote some tips a while back.

The CV joint was still good, no play (before removing the axle from the car, rotate it back and forth and check for play).

I bought the rubber boot from dealer.

Clean all old grease and pack new grease per instruction.

The OUTER and INNER joints take diff amount of grease.

The reason I kept the Volvo axle is b/c I like to keep the OEM axle than using re-mfg axle, although re-mfg axle is prob. OK too.

[ozzimark]

That is what I was thinking. I have replaced axles but never CV boots but it sure seemed like it would be more time for the CV boots.

So here is the question; How do I know when my axles need to be replaced? Is it the "clunking" sound that I hear people talking about? I assume it won't just "bang" - break on me...I will get some warnings, right?

thanks

Indeed. It also depends partially on the environment you live in, it'll probably be a while before they start making noise from contamination, but it'll start out as clunking noises when making tight turns. Where the threshold is between ok and not ok is debatable, but if you're hearing noises, it's far too late.

My judgment based on your post, the '93 definitely needs new axles, I'd get them from raxles.com.

The Turbo might be able to get away with new boots, if you clean out the old grease and dirt really really well. If not, they'll start making noise later, but if they hold up, then you saved money

For the T5-R, if the boots aren't broken, it will be perfectly happy with just a boot replacement.

[Dave 54]

IIRC you can get axles from NAPA for around 65ish per side.

[AlvinL]

This just happened to my own T5R. If the axle is original Volvo, I don't mind taking the time to replace the boot. The original axles are well made and I consider the best. You know how expensive they are. If damaged from being opened too long, a replacement is the way to go. The latter happened to mine but I didn't care too much since I noticed it was an aftermarket crap DSS put in by the previous owner's mechanic. So, I just picked up a used one off an S70 turbo from the wreckers for $65. It has the Volvo bar code still. The boot is showing signs of cracking so I will replace boot before putting on the car. Got the boot from FCP for $15. A good new axle or rebuilt would be an alternative depending on your situation.

[hgray14]

Indeed. It also depends partially on the environment you live in, it'll probably be a while before they start making noise from contamination, but it'll start out as clunking noises when making tight turns. Where the threshold is between ok and not ok is debatable, but if you're hearing noises, it's far too late.

My judgment based on your post, the '93 definitely needs new axles, I'd get them from raxles.com.

The Turbo might be able to get away with new boots, if you clean out the old grease and dirt really really well. If not, they'll start making noise later, but if they hold up, then you saved money

For the T5-R, if the boots aren't broken, it will be perfectly happy with just a boot replacement.

My environment is Northern California so I get off easy when it comes to car care. We don't get a lot of rain, we don't salt our roads for snow, we don't get too much heat and we don't get too much fog. I am guessing the 1993 850 has been torn for a really long time yet we haven't heard any noises yet. The Turbo was last checked about two years ago (I had a bad moto-accident early last year and didn't get to my normal maintanance until now) so it could have been bad for a while...but without a lot of contaminants on the road it might still be pretty clean. The T-5R I haven't checked yet but I think your advice is great. Although a little more work than replacing the entire axle, since there would be no dirt in there it would make sense to just swap out boots. Plus, it sounds like the Volvo axles are the way to go so keeping the originals sounds like a good plan.

IIRC you can get axles from NAPA for around 65ish per side.

I have swapped out using cheap axles before and although I no longer own the car (so they might have worked out just fine) I could definitley tell they were of lower quality than the original. I am reading everywhere that Raxle is the way to go for replacements and since you shouldn't have to replace them often I think it is probably worth the money.

This just happened to my own T5R. If the axle is original Volvo, I don't mind taking the time to replace the boot. The original axles are well made and I consider the best. You know how expensive they are. If damaged from being opened too long, a replacement is the way to go. The latter happened to mine but I didn't care too much since I noticed it was an aftermarket crap DSS put in by the previous owner's mechanic. So, I just picked up a used one off an S70 turbo from the wreckers for $65. It has the Volvo bar code still. The boot is showing signs of cracking so I will replace boot before putting on the car. Got the boot from FCP for $15. A good new axle or rebuilt would be an alternative depending on your situation.

I didn't know the Volvo axles were so good; it makes me think about the junk yard in a whole new light. How do the originals compare to Raxle's? Do you know which years are better than others and which years are compatable? I have access at quite a few yards and if I am going to buy used I want to get the best year.

Thanks again to you all for your advice!

[AlvinL]

From FCP's web site, the FWD left front axle is common for:

Volvo 850 Non Turbo 1993-1997

Volvo 850 Turbo 1994-1997

Volvo C70 Coupe 1998

Volvo C70 Convertible 1998

Volvo S70 Non Turbo 1998

Volvo S70 Turbo 1998

Volvo S70 AWD Turbo 1998

Volvo V70 All Models 1998

[ozzimark]

Just a comment for the above list, the auto and manual axles are interchangeable, but different. The axle shaft diameter is larger on the manuals, and I wouldn't be surprised if the CV joint itself is slightly more robust to take the shock loading from hard shifts.

[hgray14]

From FCP's web site, the FWD left front axle is common for:

Volvo 850 Non Turbo 1993-1997

Volvo 850 Turbo 1994-1997

Volvo C70 Coupe 1998

Volvo C70 Convertible 1998

Volvo S70 Non Turbo 1998

Volvo S70 Turbo 1998

Volvo S70 AWD Turbo 1998

Volvo V70 All Models 1998

Those are all compatable but is one year better/stronger/lighter/??? than others?

Thanks

Just a comment for the above list, the auto and manual axles are interchangeable, but different. The axle shaft diameter is larger on the manuals, and I wouldn't be surprised if the CV joint itself is slightly more robust to take the shock loading from hard shifts.

That makes sense and is good to know...although the only manuals I have found in the junk yard were stripped well before I ever got there. I am guessing that due to their rarity (and to so many people being die-hard "stick" fans) their related parts get snatched up fast.