850T5M Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 I recently noticed my car kinda of shakes when its cold between 2000-3000ish RPM. It feels like the car is rocking back and forth. Also, before 3000RPM, the car has no power (idk if its not supposed to have power...but for a 5-cylinder its kinda dull). Once the engine is at normal operating temperature, the shaking seems to go away (not 100%, but much less). Any ideas? Edit: Post #22 has new info on my problem :S Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHV70 Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Have you finished your stage 0? If not, get on that If you have, check out your IC hoses, joints, and IC itself. My car did the same. What were you boosting before the MBC? Stock levels for your car is ~10psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Full Stage 0 was completed 500km's ago...Im not sure of my boost before I installed the MBC...its probably around 8-9 tho. I was thinking of doing a boost leak test, but I didnt think it would have anything to do with the hesitation issue...BTW, where would i connect my "boost leak tester"? On the inlet of the turbo, where the Air Intake Tube usually connects? What size pipe is that, 2.25"? Thanks alot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayAway Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Front O2 sensor maybe, mine caused this problem. periodical would go away and come back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Ouch, thats one of the things I have not changed yet for the stage 0, and I've been smelling gas from the exhaust when I kick the car, I think shes running a little rich...Im saving up to change the O2 sensor. Could that be one of the causes? Can anyone help with the Boost Tester, I need to buy some rubber pipe to test my hoses lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin. Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Check out your O2 sensors and MAF Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Will do, Im gonna check the O2 sensor this week if possible using a voltage tester i guess...how do i check the MAF? how do i clean it, does it come off the plastic tube (its really hard to pull off)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHV70 Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Too bad your 850 is a 94, I have an OEM front one for a 96 with a couple hundred miles on it at worst, lol. MAF test? Unplug it. If the problem stops, bad MAF. If the problem persists, its fine, and may be dirty if its related to the MAF. Good luck :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Gonna try the MAF whenever I have some time and the engine is cold. Hopefully i'll do the Boost Leak Test this weak (can someone still tell me the size of our intercooler hoses?) and then last thing will be O2 sensor cuz its a PITA to do :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
854TGA+ Posted April 3, 2010 Report Share Posted April 3, 2010 Engine coolant temp sensor :ph34r: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 Engine coolant temp sensor Is there a way I can verify that its this? Is there a test I can perform? As for the MAF, i tried disconnecting it...car ran REALLY bad...so I guess its not the MAF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted April 4, 2010 Report Share Posted April 4, 2010 I also would like to know what causes the no power when engine is cold. I have similar symptoms, like heavy fume smell from exhaust, feels like no power, etc.... I unplugged MAF, and car seemed impossible to drive, so MAF is fine. I haven't checked o2 sensor and coolant temp sensor... I would love to know how to check those sensors. Is replacing o2 sensor on these cars hard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 So I replaced the O2 sensor on my car and completed the full stage 0 but it still seems to shake and have no power when accelerating. This is mostly felt when cold, but its still there even once the engine gets warm (just less)...anyone else have any ideas? Is there a way to check the Temp Sensor? My gauge reads halfway in the car, and Im not getting any codes for it...are they known to not work without any way to prove they arent working? Also, If someone gives a shot of gas, I can see a puff of black smoke exit the exhaust...this usually means its running rich. Can this have anything to do with the hesitations? Thx Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jablackburn Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 It sounds to me like the coolant temp sensor. Do you ever have hard cranking issues? Here's how to test: 1) Disconnect Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor connector. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between ECT sensor terminals. 2) If resistance is not as specified, replace sensor. See the ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR RESISTANCE table. ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR RESISTANCE TABLE Temperature F ( C) Ohms 32 (0) .............................................. 7300 68 (20) ............................................. 2800 176 (80) ............................................. 300 212 (100) ............................................ 150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 No power = bad mix in the combustion chamber or poor spark (or timing problem but this seems less likely for you). Bad ECT and/or thermostat will do funny things with the mix, typically killing the power by running uber rich. Also, you say you did Stage 0 but it looks like you have Kingsborne wires. What exactly do you have in the car for ignition/plugs? OEM seems to beat aftermarket 99 times out of 100. The MBC you have may also be causing problems if it has any leaks or isn't operating perfectly. It may be sticky when cool but works smoothly when warm. It would be helpful if you could monitor the OBD data via the OBD port - just find a decent code reader which will give sensor values. Very helpful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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