850T5M Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 No power = bad mix in the combustion chamber or poor spark (or timing problem but this seems less likely for you). Bad ECT and/or thermostat will do funny things with the mix, typically killing the power by running uber rich. Also, you say you did Stage 0 but it looks like you have Kingsborne wires. What exactly do you have in the car for ignition/plugs? OEM seems to beat aftermarket 99 times out of 100. The MBC you have may also be causing problems if it has any leaks or isn't operating perfectly. It may be sticky when cool but works smoothly when warm. It would be helpful if you could monitor the OBD data via the OBD port - just find a decent code reader which will give sensor values. Very helpful. Im running OEM plugs at about 0.0028, Kingsborne 8mm wires, new rotor/cap, new O2 sensor, silicone vacuum lines all around, brand new Hallman Pro MBC (All parts are OEM except wires and MBC obviously). All were changed within 1000km. I'm going to take a look at the Engine Temp Sensor...where is it located exactly, is it beside the thermostat? I havent checked for boost leaks yet, but the car doesnt even get into boost when it shakes/hesitates. Idk if this helps, but it only happens in gear, when theres a load on the engine. If I rev it in neutral, it runs fine...As for the cranking issue, the car turns over maybe 5-8 times before starting (cold or hot, same thing) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bah Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 Not that this solves your problem since you have one somewhere hence the black smoke, but the deal with warming up and everything Keep in mind the car runs in closed loop or open loop at given times. When your starting up the car, it ignores all values from the O2 sensors/Other fuel controlling sensors until it reaches operating temperature. I'm too tired atm to know the difference, but i believe this is closed loop. Once you've heated up you'll go into open loop and regard all O2 readings etc... Again this doesn't solve your problem which you have, but just figured it might be useful information to have for understanding. Since i've encountered it now, check your FPR line. On my N/A i noticed after years of it being unplugged, that 90% of the rich smell i would get in the cabin etc was gone. Think about FPR being unplugged. I still think they may need to be part of stage 0 if they go bad. The car can adjust for a missing vacuum line on the FPR and you wouldnt be none the wiser except for the running rich. I'm guessing you checked for all stored codes and had no luck, so just give that a shot and check everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted May 13, 2010 Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 The ECT is under the thermostat neck. Easy to change both at once. If I were you, I'd put back the factory boost controller in an effort to eliminate a variable. High load will magnify the problems caused by a weak component (MAF, ignition). There was also a service bulletin that encouraged tie-wrapping the cam sensor wire away from the coil wire since weird crosstalk could occur which would make the coil fire at the wrong time. Have you had the timing belt done recently? Cams could be off a tooth. Or even fuel pressure issue. Lots of potential culprits (unfortunately). I assume your .0028 gap was a typo, should be .028 roughly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted May 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2010 Sorry I meant to say 0.028-0.030 gap, im not sure where I left it... Timing belt was done about 8000km ago, so its brand new...except the previous owner did it so I have no idea how it ran before or after (the cams may be off a tooth). Gonna have my friend check that one day since I have no idea how. But I've been thinking of what could have caused the problem I'm having...I didnt have it when I bought the car (before the stage 0), or it was much less noticable. Im going to try putting back my old OEM wires (which were still half decent, just decided to get some thicker brand new blue ones). When I had installed the MBC, I dont tihnk I was experiencing this problem tho...im gonna try the wires attempt, and check the Temp Controller. Would this have anything to do with a blocked cat? The title is a little misleading (only when cold), cuz I noticed the car still does it when warm, just a little less.Oh and this happens before I get into any boost at all...I can still have a vacuum of -4 and the car will be hesitating. It basically hesitates whenever its not in boost (I probably cant feel it, once its in boost). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted May 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2010 I tested my Temp Sensor today, seemed to be working fine. Got a value of about 220 at operating temperature... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fasteddyT5 Posted May 15, 2010 Report Share Posted May 15, 2010 not to add to your items to check, but have you changed you oil pick-up o-rings? Many of these cars have a drowning sound during soon after start up with comes from air bubbles passing through the oil thermostat (located at the bottom of the engine, next to the crank shaft pulley). Bad o-rings can cause reduced oil pressure. Turbos usually don't make full power until the oil reaches proper temp, so i imagine that low oil pressure may also reduce turbo response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 I know this was a while ago, but I never fixed the problem with my car unfortunately The car still stumbles at low rpms while its cold, it still puffs black smoke when I rev the engine over 3.5K-ish rpm, it still gets disgusting fuel economy if you ask me (about 15MPG mixed city/highway) and it still has no power under 2500rpm (even in first gear, its sad lol). I haven't rly done much to the car since, except I changed to silicon boost hoses, and finished changing 100% of my vacuum hoses. I also did a smoke machine test which showed me I have an exhaust leak around the center band of the turbo. Smoke seemed to be coming out under the WG or close by on the turbo itself. Could this be telling the O2 sensors to add fuel, therefore making me puff black smoke, reducing performance, and reduce fuel efficiency? I'll be changing my turbo/exhaust this spring (in about 6 weeks), but was wondering if this could be the problem, or if I should still check for other possibilities. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilhuly Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Did you ever eliminate the fuel pressure regulator from the mix. Black smoke is fuel, too much fuel. It doesn't sound like you have any vac leaks that would be responsible. Think about it, you obviously have enough fuel pressure as you are rich (smell, gas mi.). You've eliminated other usual subjects that would be non-fuel, sensor related stuff that would be feeding bad info to the ECU. I say its the FPR or a bad injector. I would have expected misfire codes, though. Do you have any hot positive wires, say, to the coil? Its possible you have lots of resistance in the cables and get crappy spark/combustion at low rpm. That's all I've got. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 No I have not checked the FPR, is it located under the Fuel Rail (between the injectors) and how can I test it? Also, I have changed my injectors for white tops that were cleaned/flow tested with new o-rings so that eliminates the injectors leaking. I have no codes stored. I have a new tune RICA Stage 1, but it gives me the same problem as my stock tune. Only other thing that comes to mind is the coil and/or the exhaust leak. Now that I think of it, my coil may be installed wrong :S I have a MSD Blaster Coil installed, except I bolted it directly to metal in the engine bay (on the suspension metal part). There's no rubber between the coil and the metal (ground). Although, the coil itself has plastic sleeves where the screws go in, they aren't touching any metal on the coil itself. This doesn't account for my shitty fuel economy, cuz when I bought the car, it had the OEM coil and still had the same economy. Edit: To test the FPR, do I just unplug the vacuum line while the car is running and check for gas leaking? Is this a reliable method of testing it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Ok so I unplugged the vacuum line going to the FPR while the car was running and nothing came out of it, no gas, no air, no vacuum. Does that mean its fine? Should I be looking into the rubbers on the coil next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jablackburn Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Unplug the line to the EVAP purge valve (on the radiator shroud; follow the fat black rubber hoses into the intake manifold) and cap off that ends with tape or something. Does anything better happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 I unplug the little white sensor and tape the intake part shut right? Am I gonna know right away if it's the evap valve, or do I have to drive the car for a week to see if it stops hesitating and gets better economy? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jablackburn Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Should notice right away if it acts up consistently. I supsect if it's flooding the intake with air/fuel vapors, that would certainly cause your low-RPM hesitation. At low RPM, the valve should be closed. At higher RPM, the valve is designed to open to let the EVAP vapors into the intake manifold to be burned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted February 28, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Problem is it only happens when the motor is cold, lets say I start it, wait 10 seconds and take off (during the summer). In the winter, I usualy let the car sit for 3-5 minutes before I take off, and it rarely hesitates. I guess when its a warmer day, I'll start it, wait a few seconds and go...see if it hesitates. I felt it a few times this winter, its just rare because of the warm up period. The no power at low rpm is always felt tho, and the fuel economy always sucks lol. Would the EVAP have anything to do with this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jablackburn Posted February 28, 2011 Report Share Posted February 28, 2011 Possibly, because of the vacuum leak it creates. Give it a try at least. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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