hgray14 Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 I read the sticky on this one and it seems pretty straight forward but I have two questions... 1) I see two white wires...does it matter which one is reattached to which? 2) Has anyone put together an extender cable so you don't have dig so deep into the engine bay the next time the O2 sensor has to be replaced? I was thinking of splicing in a connector closer to the O2 sensor since that connector is a PITA from what I remember. Then again, these things don't need to be replaced all that often so maybe it doesn't matter. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 White wires are for the heating element. They can be hooked up either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgray14 Posted April 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 Thanks. I figured but wanted to play it safe. U da man! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bah Posted April 17, 2010 Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 Just keep your soldering very clean and neat, shrink wrap, and whatnot. If you want an extender cable, FCP/IPD/Volvo sells the OEM extender. You should have no Issue just plugging that in somewhere, i don't think it affects the resistivity at all(since 96-97 need it for the rear sensor supposively). Check out IPDs site real quick for the part number...should be on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgray14 Posted April 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2010 Just keep your soldering very clean and neat, shrink wrap, and whatnot. If you want an extender cable, FCP/IPD/Volvo sells the OEM extender. You should have no Issue just plugging that in somewhere, i don't think it affects the resistivity at all(since 96-97 need it for the rear sensor supposively). Check out IPDs site real quick for the part number...should be on there. Cool, thanks, I will look into it. I was also thinking I could make my own from some scraps at the junkyard but we will see. It always comes down to price and time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Just be careful how you route the wiring - a number of people have left it laying by the steering knuckle - and subsequently ripped the wiring out when it gets snagged & wound up with the knuckle. With the extender harness, you just have to be sure the pins get the volvo (or equivalent) low temp electrical grease, to make sure there is no voltage drop due to higher impedance (which is also why you have to solder the connections if you're using a generic sensor) - important since we're only talking basically 0-1v signal to the ECU for fuel delivery management Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgray14 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Just be careful how you route the wiring - a number of people have left it laying by the steering knuckle - and subsequently ripped the wiring out when it gets snagged & wound up with the knuckle. With the extender harness, you just have to be sure the pins get the volvo (or equivalent) low temp electrical grease, to make sure there is no voltage drop due to higher impedance (which is also why you have to solder the connections if you're using a generic sensor) - important since we're only talking basically 0-1v signal to the ECU for fuel delivery management ah, okay, so that is why you can't just use a wire crimp connector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilhuly Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 No, wire crimp connectors are not going to work for an O2 sensor. If you aren't going with a Volvo replacement you will need to solder and shrink wrap as was described above. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgray14 Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Argh!!! I am not a good solderer but I guess this shouldn't be tough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bah Posted April 18, 2010 Report Share Posted April 18, 2010 Ehh you can do it My recommendation for it, is to unplug the wire from the Engine bay, undo the current O2 sensor all attached hopefully still, and bring it all inside. Then measure out where the old one is, give yourself maybe a few inches of leeway for screwups, and do a well clean solder job. I think alot of the issues with the universals is people are soldering under the car. Unless your really really good with a soldering gun, or have 2 people or a lift or something, i don't see how you could do a good job. I'd much prefer to take it inside and using a soldering iron take my time to do it right....just my opinion on the subject though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgray14 Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 Ehh you can do it My recommendation for it, is to unplug the wire from the Engine bay, undo the current O2 sensor all attached hopefully still, and bring it all inside. Then measure out where the old one is, give yourself maybe a few inches of leeway for screwups, and do a well clean solder job. I think alot of the issues with the universals is people are soldering under the car. Unless your really really good with a soldering gun, or have 2 people or a lift or something, i don't see how you could do a good job. I'd much prefer to take it inside and using a soldering iron take my time to do it right....just my opinion on the subject though. That makes total sense. I have always heard people say you should only use the OEM one but I am guessing you are right; they probably had a hard time soldering under the car and then didn't get good performance. My first thought when someone mentioned soldering was to take it into the garage where I can work at my bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelsup Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 That makes total sense. I have always heard people say you should only use the OEM one but I am guessing you are right; they probably had a hard time soldering under the car and then didn't get good performance. My first thought when someone mentioned soldering was to take it into the garage where I can work at my bench. Soldering is easy as long as you heat the wire and draw the solder in that way. You see a lot of people heat the solder up and drop it on the wires. I need a new O2 sensor, haven't looked into it much beyond "only buy BOSCH OEM ONLY", guess you can use these universal ones too? They work fine? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgray14 Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 Soldering is easy as long as you heat the wire and draw the solder in that way. You see a lot of people heat the solder up and drop it on the wires. I need a new O2 sensor, haven't looked into it much beyond "only buy BOSCH OEM ONLY", guess you can use these universal ones too? They work fine? I am very good at soldering copper pipe and it is the same thing...you heat the pipe and let it draw the solder in. I wonder if I put a little flux on the wires if it would help draw the solder better. Yes, I am hearing that the universals are just fine as long as you hook them up well. I am still hearing that you should stay with Bosch only but they make two different univesals. One has a screw together wire adapter thingy and the other is just straight up loose wires. The price for the bare wires is very reasonable but for just a little more you can get the one that just screws together. Since I have multiple cars I am going to go with the one that takes more time but costs less money just to see how it works. If I can solder it okay I will use those from here on out since OEM o2's are crazy expensive and I like to swap mine out more often than most people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazykn Posted April 19, 2010 Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 I get my Bosch 15097 (front o2 sensor) from Amazon.com. I managed to pick it up for $88 last time. I think its still under $100. It was a factory fit too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hgray14 Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2010 I get my Bosch 15097 (front o2 sensor) from Amazon.com. I managed to pick it up for $88 last time. I think its still under $100. It was a factory fit too! It looks like the Bosch universal (with screw tight adapter) runs between $60-$80 (ebay, NAPA, Kragen) and the Bosch universal with bare wires runs quite a bit cheaper than that on ebay for around $32. With three 850s at my house and couple more with family members that could be quite a savings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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