Ghost Shadow Posted April 21, 2010 Report Share Posted April 21, 2010 . You can use any prices so long as they can be found with a factory warrenty. Hence, only authorized vendors, no EBAY . bing used to do a budget system for something like $500 IIRC vendors should be able to be found on the manufacture's website as a dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faultywarrior Posted April 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 wow there goes your $1000 budget True, but I'm not counting the batteries as part of the audio system, since they power tons of other stuff too. (Lights, A/C compressor, blower fan, water pump, battery exhuast blowers, heaters, power-on signal for key, locks, etc..) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JVC Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Well if batteries aren't in the price, I'll run tons of batteries, a power inverter and a bunch of home theater/dj shit and wail all day and win everything... haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 My system (see sig) DDin w/ iPod=$350 5-channel amp=$270 Speakers=$130 front, $55 rear Sub=$65 Audio total=$870 Install equip (wires, dash kit, MDF for sub box, etc) ~$110 Grand total~$980 Not the loudest ever, but decent, and yes, those are the actual prices I paid from Crutchfield and Sonic Electrix in December of '08--January '09. And I have receipts to prove it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
faultywarrior Posted April 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 Well if batteries aren't in the price, I'll run tons of batteries, a power inverter and a bunch of home theater/dj stuff and wail all day and win everything... haha. lol. That's what I had in my SUV. I had a 1500 watt RMS concert PA amp (Rackmount) running off an inverter. It pushed the huge sub plenty hard outside of the car, but the car's power system couldn't keep up. (The inverter was fine, it was the fact thay even at 50% volume, my system voltages would drop below 11V, and often the amps would cut out since it would go below the 10.5V threshold. I changed over to a RockFord Fossgate Punch Stage 2 12". (P2D412) running on the Alpine amp. (MRP-M450) It has as much, if not more power than the 18" PA sub. (which was rated for 400RMS/800Peak) The 12" claims 250RMS, which I'm doubting, since I don't think I've ever had that much bass in a car before. (My stock Head unit [didn't remove, just rewired speakers] has a tape deck, and even with the windows and roof open, the deck's door flaps from the pressure differential between the inside of the tape deck and the car's cabin.) haha, ask TyConn_S70. He's felt the wrath of my bass before (yes, he not only heard it about 1/2 a mile away, but he felt it anywhere near the car!)Note: those voltages were with the car running, so 14.4V nominal. I'd just throw the switch that kicked on the amps and I'd go from 14.4 down to 13.9 and stay there with just the amps on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdimag Posted April 22, 2010 Report Share Posted April 22, 2010 i don't exactly agree with that but i guess since i'm already outta the comp (even if the hi-amp alternator isn't counted)... so fuck it :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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