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Wiring Up A Powered Sub To An Oem Stereo


washdup

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Am I correct that using this would obviate the need for connection to the battery and separate grounding? If so, this is awesome.

Sorry - Like MKC sez, ya still need Real power.

The adapter just gives you the audio signal,

remote turn on and a signal ground.

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  • 1 month later...
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Ok, I got the basslink, I got it wired for power and grounded this morning. And--I received the Ebay harness in the mail today (see above). I am torn between using the harness versus just tapping into the rear pillar wires for signal (and returning the harness). The basslink has an "auto turn on/off" feature (it senses power in the speaker wires), so could do without the remote switch that way, and of course, without the harness altogether. andyb5 says the loss in sound Q won't be noticeable tapping into the rears, and it would certainly save some trouble.

On the other hand, if I use the harness just for peace of mind, there is another issue. The remote wire on the ebay harness is actually two wires- a positive and negative. However, the basslink seems to anticipate just a sole wire for switched power. The jack only has an input for one wire. So I am puzzled. :huh:

Any advice?

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Ok, I got the basslink, I got it wired for power and grounded this morning. And--I received the Ebay harness in the mail today (see above). I am torn between using the harness versus just tapping into the rear pillar wires for signal (and returning the harness). The basslink has an "auto turn on/off" feature (it senses power in the speaker wires), so could do without the remote switch that way, and of course, without the harness altogether. andyb5 says the loss in sound Q won't be noticeable tapping into the rears, and it would certainly save some trouble.

On the other hand, if I use the harness just for peace of mind, there is another issue. The remote wire on the ebay harness is actually two wires- a positive and negative. However, the basslink seems to anticipate just a sole wire for switched power. The jack only has an input for one wire. So I am puzzled. :huh:

Any advice?

No idea why that extra neg is there. You really shouldn't ever need it.

Just use the positive remote on lead and ignore the neg...

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Not sure if the connectors are the same, but there's a tutorial over on the main VS page for building the pre-amp out adapter cable (the one being referred here) for an 850's radio.

http://volvospeed.com/obd2/RCA-preouts1.htm

Again, I'm not sure if the connections are the same, but if they are; that seems the cheapest (and fastest) way to get this done. It took me about 20 min. to make mine, and I soldered them since I used spare cables I had.

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I wired in the basslink, but the install did not go well. The eBay wiring harness was too short, so I soldered in some extended wire so the RCA's would reach back to the BL. However, the wires on the eBay harness had a plastic core, which of course melted during the solder. Long story short, I got the RCA's extended, but after plugging everything in, there was no sound. My guess is the plastic core created a short, blocking the signal to the basslink.

Because I was leaving for a 5-hour drive and was eager to have some bass, I quick-wired the BL to the rear pillar tweeter leads. With no time to adjust the gain, bass boost and crossover, my system sounds like a platypus looks. I have read some tutorials about how to adjust the gain, etc., and will give that a try, but the other issue is there is a major difference in response by the BL depending on whether the input is the radio, the CD or the iPod. The iPod provides a solid signal, but with the radio or CD input, I have to adjust the fader to the rear in order to get response from the BL. I am worried that even if I do ever get the settings right for use with the ipod, the settings will be all wrong with the radio or CD player.

Anyway, next step is to try again with soldering extended wires to the eBay harness. I'm going to try running wire all the way from the RCA, completely eliminating the plastic-cored wires it came with.

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I'm guessing that this has already crossed your mind, but why solder?

Just get a longer RCA cable. Then it all just plugs together.

I realize that it's probably way too late now. Just sayin'...

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http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Adjustable-Line-Output-Converter-Metra_22610435-P_N3070_A?cm_mmc=CSE-_-Shopping-_-VALUE3-_-VALUE4&srccode=cii_13736960&cpncode=17-55938817-2

This is what i'm using for my basslink with factory HU.

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I'm guessing that this has already crossed your mind, but why solder?

Just get a longer RCA cable. Then it all just plugs together.

I realize that it's probably way too late now. Just sayin'...

Not too late. I'm basically starting over.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Adjustable-Line-Output-Converter-Metra_22610435-P_N3070_A?cm_mmc=CSE-_-Shopping-_-VALUE3-_-VALUE4&srccode=cii_13736960&cpncode=17-55938817-2

This is what i'm using for my basslink with factory HU.

Would that be for use in place of these?

Any idea how to address the different sound input levels by the different sources? With radio and CD, I have to back the fader to the rear of the car to get sound out of the BL, but with the iPod, it's not necessary. I guess maybe once it's re-wired it will sort itself out.

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Not too late. I'm basically starting over.

Would that be for use in place of these?

Any idea how to address the different sound input levels by the different sources? With radio and CD, I have to back the fader to the rear of the car to get sound out of the BL, but with the iPod, it's not necessary. I guess maybe once it's re-wired it will sort itself out.

Yes, those are to install and tap into your speaker lines. I have my line level tapped into the main harness up behind the HU with the RCA's running to the BL.

You will most likely have to use the gain remote that came with the BL to adjust sound as each device will give you a different type of sound quality. With mine hooked up I don't really have any issue like you are having, just need to adjust gain with the remote with different types of music is all. I don't have to mess with the fader and my bass setting on the HU is all but off. It could be because of the way yours is ran right now, never had mine ran like that so I can't confirm if that is the reason.

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Right now, the BL only has input from the two rear channels because of how it is wired up, and that is probably contributing to the imbalance. Hopefully I'll get a chance soon to re-do it right.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the re-wire done (mostly). BTW, I sure made a ton of extra work for myself by not using connectors to extend the RCA cables on the eBay harness, and instead soldering everything, but I'm learning a lot. Things are getting sorted out, mostly, but now that I am using the harness for signal straight off the HU rather than tapping into the rear pillar feeds, there is a high-pitched whine while the engine is running. It changes pitch with RPMs, but does not increase in volume with the volume control. Could the whine be caused by the negative wire I left loose on the remote wire on the eBay harness? Other possibilities?

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Got the re-wire done (mostly). BTW, I sure made a ton of extra work for myself by not using connectors to extend the RCA cables on the eBay harness, and instead soldering everything, but I'm learning a lot. Things are getting sorted out, mostly, but now that I am using the harness for signal straight off the HU rather than tapping into the rear pillar feeds, there is a high-pitched whine while the engine is running. It changes pitch with RPMs, but does not increase in volume with the volume control. Could the whine be caused by the negative wire I left loose on the remote wire on the eBay harness? Other possibilities?

first and foremost, check your grounds. you shouldn't have ground loops. you're grounding to the chassis, right?

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^^^THIS

and also did you run the RCA and power together? If so try running them apart from each other, you may be getting interference as the RCA's are not shielded.

A good point. It's always a good idea to keep power and RCA seperated

Crosstalk from power into signal can be a problem with full range amp

installs, but at subwoofer frequency's, it's not likely.

Ground loops are a lot more common. I'd look that direction.

( And RCA's are made of coax cable, that makes'em Shielded.)

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