New Member

[O_0]

Just wondering about the stock boost, is it only advised to reflash the pcm for slightly more (14 total psi) boost or is it safe to manually adjust it with a grainger valve? Is it even worth it with the 15g? Also, what turbo is the norm for swapping in? Is there a kit like there is for the mopar crowd (Super 60's) , Disco potato (turbo grand prix) ? Does the 850's shares the same turbochargers foot print as the Mitsubishi's?

If a slightly larger turbocharger unit were to be installed and kept at stock boost psi, but yielded more efficiency and a denser charge, would the pcm pick up on that and compensate enough or have misfits? If it doesnt have the ability to adjust for it yet doesnt have misfits, what can be done to keep the fuel and timing happy without tuning the pcm? Or is tuning the only way to do it without short term problems?

[Black Betty]

The turbos are TD04 turbos. The 15 is decent the 16T flows a few more cfm but emphasis on the few like 5 cfm or something. The 18T and 19T are common upgrades. The only difference between the turbos is the compressor wheel so upgrades are sold so you can convert your 15 to and 18 or 19. However the rods are fragile. They don't like boost under 3k rpm and if you get detonation they will most likely bend right there.

The factory fuel cut is at 15 psi. An 850R will have a factory over boost condition of 13 psi for a few seconds. By grandgier valve do you mean like an mbc? If you use and mbc or adjust the boost make sure to get a gauge pod that actually reads numbers.

The Maf should be able to meter the air coming in and adjust but the factory tune can only be put so far. Speed tuning makes a decent 15psi or 17psi tune for about 300 bucks but it does run rich. Better rich than lean though.

I my self am running a hahn racecraft super 16g. I didn't personally install it (previous owner) but I have the engine out now for a clutch change and I'm redoing the oil and coolant lines. Since its not factory your going to have to do some fabrication but its worth it. Alot of volvo tuning is done with oem parts that are better. The majority upgrade the turbo to a volvo turbo (18/19t), and upgrade the manifold to the s60 manifold. There are two one called the Japan manifold and the R manifold. The R manifold is the better one. But once you examine the stock manifold you'll see its very inefficient.

There are not many volvo specific kits and even when there are such as IPD's stage 3 you can often piece it together for cheaper. For example instead of IPD's rip (reverse intercooler kit) you can get an fmic kit off ebay and see a much larger gain for less money.

Honestly I could ramble on about what can be upgraded but just reading the forums through will aid you alot. Lookingforjoe has a great build thread and while he eventually went with a built motor his documentation is almost impeccable.

[Pops Racer]

215K, pfft, just broken in.

If you cab get that for< 2k that would be a good deal, Not real cheap to fix up, but a real nice car with moderate care.

And Welcome!~!

[O_0]

The factory fuel cut is at 15 psi. An 850R will have a factory over boost condition of 13 psi for a few seconds. By grandgier valve do you mean like an mbc? If you use and mbc or adjust the boost make sure to get a gauge pod that actually reads numbers.

Yes a manual boost controller is what I was referring to, being a multi forced induction car owner in my life I switch out terminology often.

I do have a spare AEM wideband I plan to use if I do any upgrades so I can monitor AFR. Are there any provisions for an after-market or other vehicle mfr knock sensors? Often GM sensors are used in making megasquirt work and if I could screw in a GM KS sensor I could build a board and monitor for faster knock occurrences.

The Maf should be able to meter the air coming in and adjust but the factory tune can only be put so far. Speed tuning makes a decent 15psi or 17psi tune for about 300 bucks but it does run rich. Better rich than lean though.

Is the PCM sensitive to injectors? Can the injectors be upgraded with a cross counter part (IE: salvage yard hunting) and not cause the pcm to fault?

I my self am running a hahn racecraft super 16g. I didn't personally install it (previous owner) but I have the engine out now for a clutch change and I'm redoing the oil and coolant lines. Since its not factory your going to have to do some fabrication but its worth it. Alot of volvo tuning is done with oem parts that are better. The majority upgrade the turbo to a volvo turbo (18/19t), and upgrade the manifold to the s60 manifold. There are two one called the Japan manifold and the R manifold. The R manifold is the better one. But once you examine the stock manifold you'll see its very inefficient.

In order to run the 18 or 19 is the s60 mandatory for the swap? If not, why is it used over the stock manifold? Additionally, what is the R and Japan terminology? Is R a stock part or aftermarket or is it euro spec?

Are there any detailed threads on timing belt procedures and how involved it is? Is it anything like doing a 2.2L belt on a turbo dodge or is it extremely different in a good way?

Thanks for the help, hope to be a more frequent member!

215K, pfft, just broken in.

If you cab get that for< 2k that would be a good deal, Not real cheap to fix up, but a real nice car with moderate care.

And Welcome!~!

haha broken in, I sure hope so!

Thanks!

[Black Betty]

I'm not sure on the knock sensors or PCM. Yes 850rs come with orange injectors. Whites then blues then green are the order in less flow to more. All are better than the orange. They are literally the colors of their name. They can be found on newer model Volvos. The japan and r manifold are oem but just better flowing. You don't need to upgrade the manifold to run an 18 or 19t but one look at the stock Mani and you'll know why to upgrade. Fr the timing belt go to volvspeed.com then click on repairs and there's a beautiful write up there.

Honestly just quick searches and reading will help you out. Like knowing what parts are better and why and where to find them. I only remeber one person running ms and I'm not sure how it panned out. Alot of people are running turbo tuner

[O_0]

Been doing some reading up, some decent info to be had. I do still have a few more questions, but I will hold off for a bit.

[O_0]

Is there a thread that fully/clearly discusses about the Motronic 4.4/4.3 electronic system?

[O_0]

I searched for specifics on "stages" but it doesn't pull up any threads relating to what I want to know. Can someone link or post up what the typical meaning of the volvo modification stages are and in what order they follow with a pro/con to the stages?

[Black Betty]

I've never seen many real stages clearly defined

Theres stg 0 which is a full tune up and replacing vacumme and boost hoses with silicon

most companies offer a 15 psi ecu upgrade which they will label stg 1 and a cat back will be a good pairing. Although theres OBX's kit on ebay that is about 300 and includeds two down pipes that more fiscally advisable. The fit isn't quite there and IPD recently reworked the same kit with better fit and finish for a few bones more.

A turbo upgrade and manifold upgrade would be stg 3 IMO.

but a good mod list to me is

upgraded turbo either td04 18/19t or td05 super 16g or 20g

full exhaust 3" or 2.5" 3" gives a good bit of drone though.

Cold air intake. Either fabing your own or buying a kit

scone man's intake tube (filter to turbo)

throttle body upgrade (960 or 850 n/a ) and ported manifold

s60R exhaust manifold

FMIC (most use an inexpensive ebay kit) Crxracing IIRC

injector upgrade (blues or greens)

Optional

meth kit

IPD's phenolic intake spacer

I'm sure I missed some but the point is there's no real set stages in the volvo game. IPD does offer their big 3 upgrade and thats good start but like mentioned earlier you can rebuild the 15g into an 18t, and while their downpipe is a thing of beauty you can find a whole turbo back for that price

thats just engine wise. IPD offers great sway bars and springs, honestly browsing through IPD's catalog should show you alot of whats out their. And you can just ask VS before hand if something else is more widely recommended or cheaper.

For example their rip kit is nice but doesn't give too much of a gain and most would recommend an ebay fmic for more gain at around the same price

this should be a good read for you

http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/86240-modifying-fwd-turbo-volvos-read-dont-comment/

I dont know much about the tuning side though. I will say that a fair number have bent rods with the 18/19t setup. Some claim its the turbo but most claim its poor tuning that causes detonation. When your pushing the limit you can't always rely on an off the shelf tune and you should monitor detonation and engine performance yourself. Also a vehicle in perfect condition will be less likely to bend rods. Meaning all the vacuume leaks are taken care off, there's no issues with spark or fuel ect

[O_0]

Good info, hope that helpful info is easily findable for the next guy being that it's all in one thread now.

What kind of mods would be safe with stock ecu that has been tried and true?

[O_0]

Car was a beater. Had lower end thump and pretty bad rot in weird sections. Also needed a turbo and ran rough. Had about 85 psi in one cylinder during my compression testings.

I passed on it.

Anyone looking to sell a 850R wagon pm me full details.

[Matty Moo]

Car was a beater. Had lower end thump and pretty bad rot in weird sections. Also needed a turbo and ran rough. Had about 85 psi in one cylinder during my compression testings.

I passed on it.

Anyone looking to sell a 850R wagon pm me full details.

I just got done replying to your post in the wanted section.

Honestly, just about anything you find in the Metro Detroit area that's an older Volvo is going to be a pile of shit. There's no way around it. Most of what you find for sale on CL are being flipped. Besides, we have shitty roads and salt. And since we don't have inspections everybody drives their shit into the ground.

I spent 2 months last year looking for just a "decent" used 95-98, and I had nothing specific in mind.. I ended up flying out to PA and buying one from a VS member. That was my 3rd trip out of state to buy one.

[info2x]

I bought mine in MI .

I agree with matt though a lot of crap out here. I mean a lot of crap. I think my neighbor might be getting rid of her 94 850 Turbo that looks like it's in decent shape from across the street. She got a 04 V70 2.5T this week.

[Matty Moo]

I bought mine in MI .

You're a lucky bastard if you scored a good one.

I spent 2 months looking for my first one. Gave up and got one from New Jersey.

I wrecked that one by drilling a deer. Found a Platinum wagon on CL out of Chicago that was just posted 90 minutes after I hit the deer. Somebody was looking out for me on that one. Needed work, but way better than anything I could find here.

Used cars in Michigan are bad news.

Car was a beater. Had lower end thump and pretty bad rot in weird sections. Also needed a turbo and ran rough. Had about 85 psi in one cylinder during my compression testings.

I passed on it.

Anyone looking to sell a 850R wagon pm me full details.

Was this somewhere on the east side? Not that I want it, just curious.

[O_0]

I concur with all the comments, MI cars tend to be POS's and ran in to the ground is an understatement.

No it was pretty much downriver.